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Coastal Processes and Terrain

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Currents are large volume of water moving horizontally ... Swash. Backwash. Tsunami. Waves. Figure 20-4. Development of Waves. Figure 20-2. Wave Refraction ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Coastal Processes and Terrain


1
Coastal Processes and Terrain
2
Outline
  • Impact of Waves and Currents
  • Coastal Processes
  • Coastal Landforms

3
Impact of Waves and Currents
  • Currents are large volume of water moving
    horizontally
  • Waves are undulations in the surface layer of
    water bodies
  • Tides are rhythmatic oscillations causing
    fluctuations/bulges in sea level regularly
  • Waves erode, currents deposit
  • Landforms are made by waves

4
Coastal Processes
  • Coastline is interface of hydrospher,
    lithosphere, atmosphere
  • Wind action very influential
  • Tides, diastrophism, tectonics, continental Ice
    sheets may have influence
  • Shore shaping forces are
  • Changes in water level
  • Tides
  • Waves
  • Currents
  • Streamflow
  • Ice push
  • Organic secretions
  • There is also chemical change

5
Coastal sediment transport
  • Beach Drifting Zigzag movement of sand by waves
  • Costal deposition takes place in shoreline
  • Estuary A finger of sea projecting inlands
  • Ria Shoreline Coast with many estuaries

6
Coastal Landforms
  • Cliffs cliff built from erosion of headlands
  • Benches Broad erosional platform
  • Terraces submarine deposit of sand at the outer
    margin of a platform
  • Barrier islands Long narrow sandbar
  • Lagoons Body of quit salt water between mainland
    and barrier island
  • Spits Linear deposit of marine sediments
  • Fjord Coasts Glacial trough
  • Coral coasts
  • Beach Loose sediment and sand
  • Backshore Upper part not reached by waves
  • Berm Flat backshore beach deposited by waves
  • Foreshore Between high and low tides
  • Offshore Farther away from the shore

7
Barrier Islands and Lagoons
Figure 20-17
8
Spits
9
Idealized Beach Profile
Figure 20-14
10
Focus Waves
  • Wind generated
  • Crest, trough, wavelength, height
  • Amplitude
  • Swash
  • Backwash
  • Tsunami

11
Waves
Figure 20-4
12
Development of Waves
Figure 20-2
13
Wave Refraction
Figure 20-5
14
Normal High Tides
Figure 20-A(1)
15
Spring and Neap Tides
Figure 20-A (2 and 3)
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