Fashion and Clothing

1
Fashion and Clothing

• Objective 11 12

2
The Impact of Clothing

• Chapter 56

3
A Personal Statement

• The clothes you wear tell people something about
  you
• It is a clue to your personality
• Clothing reflects personal values
• It can show pride in cultural heritage

4
Cont.

• Clothing can show how you feel about yourself and
  your world
• Certain clothes reflect depression or show low
  self-esteem
• Remember that clothing only tells a small portion
  of a person, dont judge a person solely by what
  they wear

5
Social Aspects

• In the mid 19th century, women were not allowed
  to wear pants
• Clothing is a social symbol
• Some places and events have dress codes (set of
  rules describing required or appropriate
  clothing)
• May be written or have unwritten rules

6
Dress Codes

• Designed to promote a certain atmosphere
• Some people dislike dress codes because it does
  not allow people to express individuality
• Some dress codes are very loose and others are
  restrictive
• The issue of a dress code will probably never be
  resolved

7
Peer Pressure

• Pressure from friends can act as an unwritten
  dress code
• The pressure to conform to certain standards is
  very high among teens
• Conformity can be healthy like wearing a team
  uniform but it can also be unhealthy
• Buying clothes that are overpriced or not
  comfortable for your style or taste

8
Clothing and Relationships

• As a teenager, you have a huge say in what you
  wear
• Not always are your parents going to like it
• Be flexible and compromise to help prevent fights

9
Dressing the Part

• There are certain events that require a certain
  type of clothing
• Some situations include
• Job interviews
• Weddings and proms
• Funerals
• Religious services
• Multicultural events

10
Cont.

• Dress for the climate outside
• If it is hot, wear loose fitting clothing
• If it is cold, cover your head and wear several
  layers
• Dress for safety
• Certain jobs require certain dress
• Could include safety goggles, steel-toed boots,
  bright colors, helmets, etc.

11
Fashion in Your Life

• Who decides what is fashionable?
• What is the fashion industry? all the companies
  involved in the design and manufacture of
  clothing
• A designer is a person that creates clothing
  styles
• When a designers work becomes popular, others
  will copy it
• This is how trends start

12
Cont.

• Even if you do not follow the latest trends, the
  fashion industry still affects you because you
  are limited to what they are producing
• Designers play on peoples emotions by placing
  their labels in prominent positions
• People buy clothing just because of the label
• The fashion industry also decides what people
  should look like by the type of models they use

13
Wearing It Well

• Clothing consciousness is important to a persons
  personal satisfaction and success in certain
  situations
• Understanding what influences your clothing
  choices helps you to make better ones

14
Clothing and the Consumer

• Chapter

15
Where to Shop

• The store you choose has an effect on the
  selection, quality, and cost of what you buy
• There are several different places to buy
  clothes
• Department Store slightly higher prices than
  other stores, divided into sections
• Factory Outlets run by the manufacturer
  generally lower in price fewer customer
  services have high-quality clothes and
  irregulars

16
Cont.

• Specialty Shops sell only one type of clothing
  prices tend to be higher
• Mail-order Catalogs convenient but may take
  awhile to get items pay for shipping
• Resale Shops secondhand shops that sell items
  that look like new
• Garage, Yard, and Rummage Sales buy used items
  for not a lot of money

17
Cont.

• Flea Markets low prices and a variety of quality
• Art and Craft Fairs have original, one-of-a-kind
  designs expensive

18
When to Shop

• Choosing when to shop is just as important as
  choosing where to shop
• Clothes are marketed for different seasons
• At the beginning of the season, the prices are at
  the highest
• As the season progresses, prices go down

19
Cont.

• Sales are also a great time to buy
• End-of-Season Sale sale that is held to clear
  out merchandise to make room for the next
  seasons styles
• Holiday Sales
• Markdowns reduced-priced items the longer an
  item is in the store, the more the price goes
  down
• Special Purchases items that the store has
  bought for a lower than usual price

20
Sizing Things Up

• In order to buy clothing, you have to know your
  size range category you fit into
• Female sizes Junior sizes are all odd numbered
  (1,3,5,7,9,ect.) and are cut for trimmer,
  shorter-waisted figures misses sizes are all
  even numbered (4,6,8,10, etc.) and are designed
  for a well-proportioned figure petites are for
  women under 5ft. 4in.

21
Cont.

• Male sizes sold in two sizes-boys and mens
  pants sold by waist and inseam
• Special sizes clothes made to fit different body
  shapes like womens, slim, husky, tall, and short

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How To Find the Right Size

• Sizes are based on measurements of typical bodies
  
• Finding the right size is difficult
• Most clothing is marked extra small, small,
  medium, large, and extra large
• It is best to try clothing on before you buy it
• If unsure of what size to buy, always buy the
  larger one

23
Avoiding Pitfalls

• When shopping, look for clothes that wont go out
  of style
• These are called classics
• Examples blazers, pullover sweaters, and polo
  shirts
• Some clothes are popular for short periods of
  time
• These are called fads
• Examples short skirts, oversized sweatshirts,
  certain shoes

24
Cont.

• Most closets contain classics and fads
• Study magazines to find out what is going to last
  and what is not
• Styles with clean lines and solid colored tend to
  last longest

25
Taking Care of Clothing

• Chapter 20-5

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Situations to Respond To(Chap60)

• 1. Ive decided to buy myself a new winter
  jacket. Ive seen a beautiful leather jacket on
  sale for half the price in one store. Ive also
  seen a washable cloth jacket I like in another
  store, but its price is higher. I think the
  leather coat is a better buy, since it costs
  less. My brother however, says its not. How
  can I decide which coat to buy?

27
Cont.

• 2. When I go to the supermarket, I see a whole
  aisle of detergents, bleaches, fabric softeners,
  and stain removers. Some are super strength,
  others are concentrated, and a few even dye free.
  How can I make a decision about which products
  to choose?

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Reasons for Care

• Your clothing will last longer
• Your clothing will look better
• You will save money
• Youll have a selection of clothes to wear

29
General Care

• Bathing daily and using deodorant helps keep
  garments fresh
• Air clothing out
• Inspect clothing
• Set aside dirty clothes
• Put away aired clothes once clothes have dried,
  put them away

30
Seasonal Care

• When seasons change, some people store their
  clothing until the next season
• Stored clothing can become damaged by insects and
  strong light. To prevent this
• Clean clothes before storing
• Prevent moth damage- like wool products
• Prevent mildew- make sure completely dry and
  store in a dry place
• Use clothing bags or boxes

31
Simple Repairs

• Repairing snags grasp snag from back with a
  crochet hook and pull it through the underside of
  garment
• Mending seams stitched by sewing machine or by
  hand
• Patching holes use iron-on patches or pieces of
  fabric (should be hand-sewn)
• Replacing fasteners buttons are most common

32
Cleaning Clothes

• All clothes need to be cleaned, but they all have
  different methods
• Always check the care label before washing
• Follow directions to help make the clothes last

33
Removing Stains

• Blood soak in cold water and detergent wash
  using bleach safe for fabric
• Candle wax scrape off wax, place between layers
  of paper towels with wax side down and press with
  iron to melt wax to towels then wash
• Chewing gum harden by rubbing with ice scrape
  off with dull knife apply pre-wash, rinse, and
  wash

34
Cont.

• Chocolate soak in cold water rub detergent onto
  the stain and wash
• Cosmetics pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover
  rub detergent on stain and wash
• Grease sponge with cleaning fluid rub detergent
  into stain and wash use bleach if stain still
  exists

35
Cont.

• Ink Sponge with rubbing alcohol or hair spray,
  rinse, and wash
• Nail polish never use nail polish remover
  sponge with alcohol mixed with small drops of
  ammonia, rinse, and wash

36
Washing Clothes

• Cleaning Agents used to remove soil
• Two types soap and detergent
• Enzyme presoak solutions help remove egg, meat
  juices, and blood
• Disinfectants kill bacteria
• Water softeners soften hard water
• Bleach removes tough stains and acts as a
  disinfectant
• Fabric softeners decrease static electricity and
  makes fabrics feel softer

37
Washing Machines

• Used to clean a variety of clothes
• To use a machine
• 1. select water temperature
• 2. add clothing and cleaning agent
• 3. adjust water level
• 4. select cycle
• 5. turn on the wash cycle

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Sewing Equipment

• Chapter 21

39
The Sewing Machine

• The sewing machine is one of the most important
  pieces of sewing equipment
• Joins pieces of fabric together with a
  lockstitch, a stitch that uses a thread above the
  fabric to join another thread (the bobbin thread)
  coming from below the fabric
• A tension control devise helps keep the stitches
  even

40
Cont.

• Fabric is moved along with the feed dogs
• The machine is controlled by foot and knee
  controls
• A handwheel raises and lowers the needle as you
  begin and end stitching

41
Threading the Machine

• Every machine is threaded differently
• They all have the same basic steps
• 1. thread goes from spool to upper tension level
• 2. from upper tension level to take-up lever
• 3. from take-up lever down to needle

42
Cont.

• Thread guides keep the thread from tangling along
  the way
• In order to thread the machine, a bobbin must be
  wound and inserted
• A bobbin is a small spool that holds the bottom
  thread

43
Types of Stitches

• Regular Stitch medium-length stitch (10-12
  stitches per in. or 3-5 per cm.) that can be used
  for most stitches
• Basting Stitch long stitch used for temporarily
  holding layers of fabric together and for
  gathering

44
Cont.

• Reinforcement Stitch short stitch used to
  strengthen a corner or a point
• Zigzag Stitch sideways stitch used to finish
  seam allowances, make buttonholes, and sew
  special seams
• Specialty stitches are built into some machines
• Used for hems, stitching stretch fabrics, and
  decorative stitching

45
Machine Needles

• Two types of needles universal and ballpoint
• Universal or general purpose needles have a sharp
  point for use with most fabrics
• Ballpoint needles have rounded point and are used
  for knits
• The lower the number on the needle, the finer the
  needle
• If a needle becomes damaged, dull, or is rusty,
  replace right away

46
Caring for the Machine

• Requires regular maintenance and care
• Clean it regularly with soft sewing machine brush
• Keep lint away
• Oil the machine occasionally with sewing machine
  oil

47
The Serger

• The serger is an overlocking sewing machine
• It trims, sews, and overcasts in one step
• Work twice as fast as a conventional sewing
  machine

48
Cont.

• Two basic stitches overlock and overedge
• Overlock stitch is used for seams
• It locks the fabric layers together at the edge
  of the seam allowance, finishing the edges as it
  stitches the seam
• Overedge stitch is used to finish edges of a
  single piece of fabric

49
Cont.

• Used along with a sewing machine not as a
  replacement for a conventional sewing machine
• Can be used for all seams but not for
  buttonholes, straight-stitch application for a
  zipper, and topstitching detail

50
More differences from a Conventional Sewing
Machine

• Has more threads can use up to 5 different
  threads
• Loopers do not have bobbins loopers are parts
  that perform as bobbins do on a conventional
  sewing machine
• Cutting knives use two sharp blades to trim and
  smooth the fabric to the width of the stitch just
  before it goes under the needle

51
Cont.

• Special Edge Finishes and Decorative Stitching
  can do narrow rolled hems and produce blind hem
  and flatlock stitches
• Special Threads use special threads that are
  cross wound on cones for smoother feeding
• Differential Feed provides different speeds for
  feeding the upper and lower layers of fabric

52
Other Tools

• Sewing projects not only require a sewing machine
  and serger, but also many other tools
• These tools include measuring, cutting, marking,
  pinning, hand stitching, and pressing tools

53
Measuring Tools

• Tape Measure
• Yardstick/meter stick
• Ruler
• Sewing gauge

54
Marking Equipment

• Tracing paper
• Tracing wheel
• Chalk
• Liquid marking pens

55
Cutting Tools

• Pinking Shears
• Shears
• Scissors
• Seam ripper
• Rotary cutter
• Cutting mat

56
Pressing and Sewing Equipment

• Steam Iron
• Ironing board
• Press cloth
• Tailors hem
• Sleeve board

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Other Small Sewing Equipment

• Pins hold pattern on fabric and hold fabric
  together
• Needles
• Pincushion hold pins so that they cant spill
• Thimble

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Using a Pattern

• Chapter 21

59

• Now that your sewing equipment is ready, it is
  time to prepare your pattern and fabric, lay out
  your pattern, cut it and mark the fabric.

60
Preparing the Pattern

• To prepare the pattern, take out the pattern
  guide sheet
• This gives step-by-step instructions for
  laying-out, cutting, marking, and sewing the item
• Use this time to check measurements and to make
  simple adjustments to the pattern

61
Preparing the Fabric

• Check to see if the fabric needs to be preshrunk
• Preshrink it if necessary by washing it
• Find the fabric grain-direction the threads run
  straighten if needed or hems will be uneven

62
Laying Out, Cutting, and Marking

• When you are ready, the best place to work is in
  a well-lit room with a large, flat surface
• The pattern layout is a diagram that shows how to
  place the pattern pieces on the fabric
• Always layout your pieces before you pin and cut

63
Cont.

• Pin any corners
• Pin along the remaining edges, smoothing out the
  pattern as you go
• Pins should not interfere with the cutting line
• Once pins are in place, use sharp shears and cut
  along the cutting line
• With your free hand, hold the fabric flat
• Cut with the grain of the fabric
• Do NOT lift the fabric up to cut it

64
Cont.

• Once the pattern is cut out, then mark it
• Use the marking tool most suited for your fabric
• Always test first with fabric scrap
• Take your time with these steps
• This will save you a lot of disappointment later!!

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Basic Construction Fundamentals

• Chapter 22

66
Construction Fundamentals

• Once all of the pieces of fabric have been
  marked, it is time for unit construction
• Unit construction is putting all of the pieces
  together in a specific order
• When constructing a piece of clothing, the first
  thing to do is to find all of the curved pieces
  and do a stay stitch (prevents the curved seams
  from stretching)

67
Shaping to Fit the Body

• Three different ways to get fabric to fit to the
  body darts, tucks, and gathers
• Darts are a triangular fold of fabric stitched to
  a point used to shape curved areas
• Tucks are a fold of fabric stitched from top to
  bottom and used to shape a garment used down the
  front of a shirt to give shape

68
Cont.

• Gathers are small, soft folds of fabric created
  by sliding fabric along two parallel rows of
  machine basting

69
Assembling the Pieces

• Stitching seams
• A standard seam is often called a plain seam and
  is usually 5/8 in. wide
• To secure your seams, begin and end with a
  backstitch, sew in reverse using the reverse
  level on the machine

70
Cont.

• Additional Seam Techniques help fabrics to lie
  flat and smooth, reducing bulk
• Trimming cutting the seam allowance in half
• Grading cut each layer of a seam allowance
  slightly narrower than the previous layer
• Clipping after trimming, clip seam allowances
  that curve inward
• Notching cut v-shaped wedges on the outside of a
  curve

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Finishing Seams

• Seams need to be finished to prevent fabric edges
  from fraying or raveling and give a neat
  appearance
• Methods
• Pinked or stitched and pinked cut with pinking
  shears
• Zigzagged sew a zigzag stitch close to raw edge
• Clean-finished turn edge of seam allowance under
  and sew along the folded edge
• Bound use tape strips and stitch through layers
• Serged use a serger on the raw edge

72
Interfacing

• A lightweight, woven or nonwoven fabric that is
  put between layers of garment fabric to prevent
  stretching and add extra body and shape
• Two different types fusible (use an iron to
  apply) and sew-in (sew onto the fabric)

73
Facings

• A piece of fabric used to finish the raw edges of
  a garment
• Usually seen at necklines, armholes, and
  waistlines

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More Sewing Fundamentals

• Chapter 22

75
Hand Sewing

• When threading a needle, cut the thread at an
  angle to make it easier to thread
• Then, hold the needle up against a background so
  you can see through the eye
• Insert the thread through the eye and pull it
  through
• Cut the thread at the desired length and knot it

76
Hand Sewing Techniques

• Running Stitch the simplest stitch and is used
  to sew seams, basting , and gathering. Form a
  running stitch by making even stitches about ¼
  inch long
• Hemming Stitch a slanted stitch used on bound,
  hemmed, or serged hemmed finishes

77
Cont.

• Backstitch durable stitch used to repair seams
• Secure thread at the beginning of the seam.
  Working from right to left, bring the needle
  through the fabric to the upper side facing you.
  Then, insert the needle one stitch back, about
  1/8 in., behind the previous stitch and bring it
  out one stitch ahead. Continue until the seam is
  complete

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Backstitch
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Hems

• Usually the last step in construction
• The basic steps include
• 1. When marking a hem, make sure to wear shoes
  similar to the ones you will wear with the
  garment and have someone mark the hem line with
  chalk or fabric pen.
• 2. Fold the hem up, matching the seams, and pin
  it in place. Then, try garment on again.

80
Cont.

• 3. Using a sewing gauge or ruler, mark the hem
  width plus 1/4inch on the hem allowance for
  finishing. Trim away any excess fabric.
• 4. Once the hem is marked, finish the edge with
  fusible web, machine stitching, or hand stitching
  using a slip stitch or hemming stitch.

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Closures

• Buttons and Buttonholes
• Two types of buttons sew-through and shank
  buttons
• Sew-through buttons are buttons that have two or
  four holes in it
• Shank buttons are buttons that have a built-in
  shank, or loop, on the back (dont have holes)

82
To Sew a Button

• Sew-through button
• 1. Secure the thread to the underside of the
  garment at the button location. Then, bring the
  needle up through the fabric and one hole of the
  button. Lay a toothpick or a large pin on top of
  the button between the holes. Bring the needle
  over the toothpick and down through the second
  hole. Do this several more times.

83
(No Transcript)
84
Cont.

• 2. End stitches with the needle and thread under
  the button between the button and the garment.
  Remove the toothpick or pin, and wind the thread
  several times around the thread UNDER the button
  to create the thread shank. Push the needle
  through the underside of the fabric and secure it.

85
Cont.

• Shank button
• 1. Secure the thread to the underside of the
  fabric at the button location. Sew a shank
  button in place with several small stitches
  through the shank and into the fabric. Secure
  the thread to the underside of the fabric.