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Style Subcultures

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Title: Style Subcultures


1
Style Subcultures Authenticity of Identity
Performance
2
Goths
3
Punks
4
Grunger
5
Style Subcultures Authenticity of Identity
Performance
6
(No Transcript)
7
Style Subcultures Authenticity of Identity
Performance
BodyWork
8
Postmodern Consumer Culture
  • Brands as resources for identity construction
  • The Performing Self
  • Appearance, display management of impressions
  • Skilful Performance?
  • Authentic Performance?

9
Authenticity Socio-Cultural Theories of
Consumption
  • Brand Communities
  • Authentic v inauthentic members
  • Neo-Tribes
  • Authoritative performance and display
  • British Subcultural Theory
  • Mods, Rockers, Punks
  • Style

10
The Embodied Self Style
  • Style dress AND how it is worn
  • Body becomes a site for identity
  • Youth subcultures
  • Cool body style of Mods
  • Hard masculinity of Rockers
  • Movement confidence in that movement were the
    key to their style
  • Ways of moving, walking talking which are worn
    like a second skin on the body of the skinhead,
    punk, raver

11
The Body
  • Body Techniques
  • mechanical, unreflexive
  • Bodily Hexis
  • permanent disposition
  • Technologies of the Self
  • transform themselves to attain a certain state
    of happiness
  • BodyWork Materiality
  • The embodied distinction of competent style
    performances together with fashion products make
    visible the boundaries of style subcultures

12
Performance
  • Taste cultures and subcultural capital
  • Authentic displays of cool
  • Style leaders
  • Cool requires bodily expression of ironic
    detachment
  • Face Work signalling and reading
  • Authentic performance is transmission and
    reception of culturally appropriate actions

13
Research Questions
  • To what extent do style subcultures express their
    identities through consumption display of
    fashion brands?
  • And also through performative acts?
  • Can members identify a difference between
    authentic and inauthentic performance of identity?

14
Ethnographic Methods
  • 8 month study 16-19 yr old students at college in
    city
  • Range of standard high street branded fashion
    shops, boutiques, sports surfing clothing, 2nd
    hand (retro), charity clothing
  • Process
  • Identified Style Leaders approached directly
  • Snowballing through friendship networks
  • 18 individuals in multiple interviews
  • Further 13 in focus groups
  • Data
  • Observation
  • Participant observation
  • Individual interviews
  • Focus groups
  • Video diaries

15
Style Repertoires Style Codes
  • Material base
  • Clothing and Store brands, Music bands, Leisure
    venues
  • Repertoires
  • Skaters, Punks, Goths, Metallers, Emo-Indie,
    Grungers
  • Skaters
  • Baggy Bleubot trousers, DCs, Vans, Raw sports
    shoes, Baggy Surf-store T-shirt
  • Metallers
  • Band T-shit
  • Leather trousers and jacket
  • Shops/Pubs/Clubs
  • HM!
  • Dancing (Moshing in the Mosh Pit)
  • Pogo-ing (Goths)
  • Head-banging (Metallers)
  • Skanking (Punks)

16
Pogoing
17
Headbanging
18
Skanking
19
Authenticity of Style Performance
  • Naturalness
  • Over-performance
  • Trying too hard
  • Learning through trial and error
  • Supporting the wrong band
  • Subcultural capital
  • Commitment to one micro-style

20
BodyWork
  • Skaters
  • They kind of shuffle, like, kind of because they
    skate lotssee how theyre like, shuffling along
    with their hands in their pockets? Thats like
    the perfect, like surfer/skater boarder walk.
    Thats how they walk. They always walk as if they
    havent got anywhere to go, like theyve got no
    purpose. Theyre not walking anywhere, theyre
    just walking for funthey always walk pretty
    slowly. Like, theyre trying to look as if the
    only thing that would get them anywhere is their
    board. Like if they havent got their board then
    theres no point in going there, because its not
    fun. They slump, like theyre trying to get as
    low to the ground as possible, like they do when
    theyre skating
  • Chris, Gothy Skater

21
BodyWork
  • Drum and Bassers
  • its like they want to be skaters but they
    dont they all do pot, cos theyre always so
    stoned! Thats what I mean (speaks in monotone
    voice), I think its because of the potthey all
    go to the park and there like 50 of themthey
    all wear those baggy clothes, like Skater
    clothes, but theyre into Drum Bass, but they
    think theyre like black guys, cos theyre all
    yeah, smoked spliffs the other day Yeah it was
    well good Thats how they talk, they all think
    theyre real cool and they do the monkey walk,
    you know just like drag along their feet and
    their shoulders
  • Sophie, Girlie Punk

22
Conclusion
  • Creative consumers
  • Collective individuality
  • Symbolic project of the self within a
    micro-cultural context
  • Staged authenticity ? True authenticity
  • Self in between
  • Visual ethnography

23
Visual Ethnography
  • Photos taken by Researcher
  • As evidence to be interpreted by researcher
  • As an illustration of an insight
  • As stimulus for an interview (photo-elicitation)
  • Photos taken by Informant
  • As evidence to be interpreted by informant
    (auto-driving)
  • As evidence to be interpreted by informant and
    researcher together (co-operative inquiry)
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