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Chemistry for Cosmetics

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Chemistry for Cosmetics Dr Lida Schoen Amsterdam Human skin Dirt on the skin water soluble (sweat); oil soluble (sebum, grease); non soluble (sand, skin flakes). – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Chemistry for Cosmetics


1
ChemistryforCosmetics
  • Dr Lida Schoen
  • Amsterdam

2
Human skin
3
Dirt on the skin
  • water soluble (sweat)
  • oil soluble (sebum, grease)
  • non soluble (sand, skin flakes).
  • Rubbing with water and soap can remove all three.

4
Cleaning the skin water and soap
5
Washing dirt from textiles
with water and soap
6
Cosmetic cleaners
Showergel (shampoo)
7
Cosmetic emulsion
  • Water
  • Oil
  • Emulsifier
  • Additions
  • Perfume
  • Colour

8
Emulsion micro
9
Emulsion macro
10
Cream
  • 2-3 emulsifier thickener (for stabilisation)
  • 10 oil like
  • mineral like paraffin (cheap, doesnt
    deteriorate)
  • vegetable like avocado (whats good to eat )
  • animal like mink (snob appeal)
  • Water
  • Perfume
  • Additive, like
  • dihydroxyacetone (artificial tanning)
  • herbals

11
Flowers, herbals
12
Hair under microscope
13
Chemistry keratin
  • Hydrogen bridges
  • Ion-ion (salt) bonds
  • Disulfide (sulpher) bonds

14
Keratin (2)
15
Keratin (3)
pH 5,5
16
Keratin (4)
cystin
17
All bonds (schematic)
18
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19
Melanin in cortex
  • Eumelanin
  • black-brown
  • large molecules
  • easy to light up.
  • Pheomelanin
  • yellow-red
  • smaller molecules
  • difficult to light up.

20
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21
Hair colour
22
Cleaning hair shampoo
  • Detergent sodium lauryl (C12) ether sulphate
  • cheap
  • skin friendly
  • good foam
  • easy to thicken (with NaCl)

23
Ether sulfates
  • Vegetable oil, after hydrolysation and reduction,
    ethoxylation with ethylene oxide
  • Alkyl alcohol esterified with sulphuric acid
    CH3-(CH2)10-CH2(OCH2CH2)nOSO3- Na with 1ltnlt4

24
Thickener electrolyte
  • detergent in water micelles
  • NaCl (3-4)

25
Conditioner in the past egg yolk
  • Egg shampoo
  • egg yolk lecithin

Conditioner today man made
  • quat quaternary ammonium compound
  • silicone

26
Hair in form 1775
today
27
Hair gel at school
  • Carbomer (brand name in Europe) neutralised
    cross linked polymer of acrylic (propene) acid
  • CH2CH-COO-Na

28
Bleaching (1)
  • Decomposition of melanin by oxidation in alkaline
    (ammonia) environment
  • carboxylated derivatives soluble at higher pHs.

29
Bleaching (2)
  • Bleaching powder persulphate(O3S-O-O-SO3)2-
  • 2 Na2S2O8 -gt 2 Na2S2O7 O2
  • Hydrogen peroxide,(max. 12, pH 4), optimum
    melanin bleaching at pH ? pKa (11,5) of the
    peroxide-anion
  • In practice pH 10. H2O2(aq) 12 not stable at
    pH 10.

30
Types of hair colouring
  • permanent
  • semi-permanent
  • temporarily
  • Oxidative
  • Direct

31
Hair colouring products
  • Natural
  • Metal
  • Permanent (synthetic dyes)
  • Semi-permanent (natural en synthetic dyes)
  • Temporarily (synthetic dyes)

32
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33
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34
walnut
henna
35
Semi-permanent hair colouring
  • in and under cuticle
  • 4-6 washings
  • till 30 grey covering

36
Metal dyes
  • Acetates or sulphates of lead, silver, iron,
    copper, cobalt, bismuth, manganese, zinc
  • Sulphide bonds with sulphur from keratin
  • Toxic properties!
  • Sensitive to oxidation

37
Permanent hair colouring
  • Oxidative dyes development with hydrogen
    peroxide
  • Not washable
  • Till 100 grey covering

38
Developers and couplers
Developers
couplers
39
Examples of couplings
40
Summary chemical trick
  • Mix two (or more) types small molecules
  • cover hair with mixture
  • small molecules intrude the hair cortex (higher
    pH will help to open cuticula)
  • inside the cortex small molecules react to form
    bigger molecules
  • The big molecules are captured in the cortex,
    they cant leave permanent hair dye

41
Bath salts
  1. Salt
  2. kitchen salt NaCl (cheap, crystals)
  3. soda Na2CO3 (softener)
  4. bicarbonate NaHCO3 (solubility)
  5. phosphate Na3PO4 (complexer)
  6. Perfume
  7. Colour (water soluble food colour)
  8. Extra (chamomile, herbals)

42
Perfume
  • Natural (past) and synthetic (aldehydes, ketones,
    esters)
  • Mixture of 3 groups notes
  • Top
  • Middle
  • Base.

43
TOP
lime, lemon , mandarin, orange, grass,
apple, pineapple, cassis, raspberry, peach
citrus green fruity
MIDDLE
jasmin, rose, violet, muguet
floral
sandalwood, cedarwood, ambery, musky, vanilla,
sweet hay
BASE
woody powdery
44
Our Chanel Allure
  • citrus 15 drops (top)
  • lily of the valley 8 drops (top/ middle)
  • rose 2 drops (middle)
  • jasmin 10 drops (middle)
  • floral bouquet 5 drops (middle)
  • sensual 10 drops (base)

45
Dilution
  • With min 70 alcohol
  • Denaturised (tax reasons) with bergamot (citrus)
    or DEP (di-ethylphtalate)
  • Perfume 20 oils
  • Eau de Toilette 5 oils

46
Allure Fragrance Description
  • From the Chanel website
  • The concept of Allure was Coco Chanels ideal an
    innocent seduction without artifice, an
    unforgettable elegance transcending words and
    conventions.
  • Fragrance family floral, fresh, oriental. A
    faceted fragrance that mixes notes of the Orient
    with abstract flowers.
  • A simple jewel that combines 6 complex facets. In
    Allure, youll find bergamot, mandarin, water
    lily magnolia, jasmine and may roses, vetiver
    and finally, the velvety sensuality of vanilla.
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