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New Terms in Sustainability

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New Terms in Sustainability What does it all mean? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Eco-fashion The eco-fashion movement started in the mid 70 s as ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: New Terms in Sustainability


1
New Terms in Sustainability
  • What does it all mean?

2
Eco-fashion
  • The eco-fashion movement started in the mid 70s
    as part of the hippie revolution was defined by
    opting out of mainstream and going for homemade,
    ethic and handcrafted fabric and clothes. They
    embraced fabric such as hemp and natural dyeing.
    The next wave of eco-fashion in the 1990s
    related to the dye houses and the standards and
    enviromental cost involved by such designers as
    Lynn Grose for Esprit and companies as Patagonia
    and J Crew.
  • Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black

3
Sustainability
  • Development that meets the needs of the present
    without compromising the ability of future
    generations to meet their own needs.
  • This definition was created in 1987 at the World
    Commission on Environment and Development (the
    Brundtland Commission). It is enshrined in the
    Swiss federal constitution. It is similar to the
    "seventh generation" philosophy of the Native
    American Iroquois Confederacy, mandating that
    chiefs always consider the effects of their
    actions on their descendants seven generations in
    the future.
  • http//www.sustainabilitydictionary.com/ The
    Dictionary of Substanability Terms

4
Recycle
  • As demand used to outstrip supply, recycling
    was necessary in order to provide the required
    quantity of material. The natural Quality and
    resilience of wool meant that is processing of
    remanufacturing, reclaimed or salvaged wool
    was very popular. It was also known as shobby
    wool for it low quality when compared to Virgin
    Wool. Recycled wool was used in carpeting and
    industrial felt.
  • Wool, polyester and cotton textiles and clothing
    provide excellent source materials for recycling.
  • Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black

5
Gary Harveys recycled couture gowns February
2007 collection
  • The collection creates a dramatic display
    designed to change peoples perception of
    second-hand clothing and create fashion with a
    conscience. Gary uses material he finds in places
    like secondhand clothing stores to avoid waste,
    he says of good quality second hand clothing,
    people "wear it one or two times then discard it
    because it's suddenly deemed aesthetically
    unimportant and out of date when there's years of
    life left in the garment." His collection "was a
    comment about thinking about the real cost of the
    garment that you buy, about that cost being
    natural resources, exploitation of labor, the
    biodegradable nature of garments."

6
Baseball Puffball Dress, made from 26 nylon
baseball jackets. Sports uniforms were originally
designed to be hi-tech long lasting uniforms, now
they are non-biodegradable and are often
discarded at the end of the season.
7
Denim Dress, made from 41 pairs of Levi 501's.
Jeans were originally made to be a long lasting
workmen's uniform, since becoming a fashion
garment they are discarded long before their use
is over.
8
Above dress made with laundry bags
9
This one dress to the left was made with cans,
bottle tops and cardboard boxes.
10
Upcycle
  • Upcycling was coined by William McDonaugh and
    Michael Braugart in their book on ecologically
    intelligent design, Cradle to Cradle. In the
    simplest terms, upcycling is the practice of
    taking something that is disposable and
    transforming it into something of greater use and
    value. This process allows for the reduction of
    waste and virgin material use.

11
What is Green?
  • From home and garden to food and health and
    tech and transport, there are tons of ways we can
    make our lives greener. The use of consumer
    awareness and the consumer involvement of global
    and environmental issues. These concerns about
    ethical practices in the supply chain is working
    to create pressure and change in how large
    companies such as MS, Gap and HM create their
    clothing lines. Consumers are demanding to know
    more about how and where and in what conditions
    their cloths are made, similar to what has happen
    with organic food.
  • Eco-Chic the Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black

12
Green Clothing / Substainability
  • 1. The greenest garments are those you already
    own. No more resources are required to get them
    to you. No more materials extraction,
    manufacturing, shipping, retailing, etc. Oh, and
    no cost to you.
  • 2. Actually, strictly speaking, thats not true
    about the cost. To you, or to the environment.
    For research has shown that the greatest
    eco-burden from clothes is not in their
    construction and distribution, but in their use,
    specifically the laundering thereof. Washing
    clothing can involve large quantities of water,
    energy and chemicals of a garments life. Greener
    threads are those that can be cold washed and
    line dried. Avoid anything that needs to be
    dry-cleaned.

13
  • 3. Assuming your gladrags allow such landering,
    the next best earth, and wallet friendly aspects
    of clothing relates to their longevity. At first
    glance this might appear to suggest you should
    only buy clothes with reinforced elbows and
    double knees, and while this is true in many
    instances, longevity also relates to fashion.
    Selecting apparel that youll still be wearing in
    20 years, even if made from traditional cotton is
    preferable, to an organic bamboo top in which
    you'll look like a dag just 5 months hence.
    Choose classic styles and colours that will not
    age. I have a jacket over 22 years old, that
    looks as good as the day I was given it.
  • 4. Longevity similarly applies to the types of
    materials and components used in a garment.
    Buttons, for example, look dainty compared to
    snap-fasteners. but are imminently repairable.
    Anyone with minimal dexterity can sew on a new
    button, but replacing snaps is way more involved.
    Sewing up tears, rips or holes will give
    treasured wardrobe fillers an even longer life.
    The repaired Levis shown above are 23 years old.
    And have many more years still to go, assuming I
    keep my waistline in check!

14
  • 5. Lets say you really do need to buy new
    clothes, for whatever reason. What is the best
    buy? Not new at all, as it turns out. Haunt
    opportunity shops, Oxfam or thrift stores to find
    gorgeous preloved clothing. You wont be alone.
    Very little new energy is expended in processing
    these garments. Reusing someones hand-me-downs
    is not like having to lump your brother or
    sisters discards. You can choose from an amazing
    array of styles. There are even boutique stores
    selling preloved prestige labels in evening and
    formal wear.
  • Thus far we have looked at the greenest of
    threads and as good fortune would have it they
    are also the cheapest too. From here on we do
    need to delve into the purse a smidge deeper.
  • http//www.treehugger.com/files/2006/06/ecotip_cho
    osing.php
  • Eco-Tip Choosing Green Clothing by Warren
    McLaren

15
Organic
  • With food the crop can be certified by a numerous
    certifications. This means that crops were grown
    without the use of conventional pesticides,
    artificial fertilizers or sewage sludge, and that
    they were processed without food additives (like
    chemical preservatives). When it comes to
    animals, they must be reared without the routine
    use of antibiotics and growth hormones and fed a
    diet of organic foods. In most countries, organic
    produce must not be genetically modified.
    http//www.treehugger.com/files/2007/09/green-basi
    cs-organic-food.php

16
Are you making a ecologically and / ethically
sound purchase?
  • We need to understand the labeling we are now
    seeing on our clothing in the same way we examine
    the labeling of our food. What does natural
    mean? Eco, green, environmentally friendly,
    sustainable, organic are terms we are seeing on
    labels. If there are no standards to and no
    certification behind the labeling what does it
    all mean. What is certified organic?

17
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
The OTCO fiber program certifies to the Global
Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which is
dedicated specifically for Fiber Textile
Handling and production. GOTS is a project of the
International Working Group, who developed these
consensus-based standards over many years of
discussion and deliberation. The aim of the
standard is to define requirements to ensure
organic status of textiles, from harvesting of
the raw materials,
18
ECOFLOWER (EU)
  • Indicates reduced environmental impact over the
    product's life-cycle compared to products which
    do not meet an equivalent standard. This label
    was initiated and is endorsed by the EU
    Commission. European Union Ecolabelling Board is
    part of the Global Ecolabelling Network (GEN)
    covers. It covers 19 categories of everyday
    consumer products, with the exception of
    foodstuffs. There are, for example, eco-labels
    for textiles, paints, refrigerators, detergents,
    PCs, televisions, fertilisers, etc.
  • (environmentally-friendly clothing.
    pesticide-free textiles, biodegradable dyes,
    production processes with a low environmental
    impact)

19
Textile products bearing the Oeko-Tex 100
certification mark are
  • Textiles that do not contain allergenic
    dye-stuffs and dye stuffs .
  • Textiles that had been tested for pesticides and
    chlorinated phenoles.
  • Textiles that have been tested for the release of
    heavy metals under artificial perspiration
    conditions.
  • Textiles free from formaldehyde or containing
    trace amounts significantly lower than the
    required legal limits.
  • Textiles with a skin friendly pH.
  • Textiles free from chloro-organic carriers.
  • Textiles for garments free from biologically
    active finishes.
  • Certification may be given to a finished product
    (such as a shirt), or to individual components
    (such as yarn, or fabric). http//www.kidbean.com/
    what-is-oeko-tex.html

20
Organic Trade Association
  • Organic Trade Association (OTA) is a
    membership-based business association that
    focuses on the organic business community in
    North America.  OTA's mission is to promote and
    protect the growth of organic trade to benefit
    the environment, farmers, the public and the
    economy since 1985.

21
Why Bamboo is considered a green fabric
  • Bamboo Organic Bamboo is 100 naturally grown
    sustainable. 100 pesticide fertilizer free.
    100 biodegradable. Blocks 91 of UVA 98 of
    UVB rays- naturally.

22
Textile Recycling for Aid and International
Development (TRAID)
  • Its hard to believe its 10 years since TRAID
    launched with a mission to fight global poverty
    through its clothes reuse and recycling
    activities in the UK. TRAID began with a small
    network of clothes recycling banks, five shops
    and a cunning plan to inject a much needed dose
    of desirability into second hand retail. TRAIDs
    attractive branding, quirky shops stocking only
    the best recycled clothing and the emphasis on
    every garments eco credentials has helped to
    change the face of charity shops forever. Today,
    ethical fashion is firmly on the map and TRAIDs
    latest retail adventure will see a new flagship
    store opening in the heart of Camden. As well as
    diverting waste from landfill, clothes reuse
    means TRAID raise funds in support of remarkable
    international development projects to fight
    global poverty. Benin, Malawi, Delhi, Angola,
    Brazil, Madagascar and Uganda are just some of
    the countries where TRAIDs contribution has
    transformed the lives and livelihoods of people
    living in some of the poorest regions in the
    world. In 2009, TRAID is delighted to announce it
    is committing half a million pounds to support
    development projects around the world. A
    fantastic achievement that would not be possible
    without the support of everyone recycling and
    shopping with TRAID.
  • http//www.traid.org.uk/partners.html

23
bluesign
  • It is also a independent environmental standard
    for the textile industry. Its not about testing
    finished products. Instead, before production
    begins, components and processes are selected to
    ensure they meet the specified criteria.
    bluesign works for the whole textile food chain
    from raw materials through yarns, dyes, and
    additives, through to finished fabrics and
    zippers, fasteners and other trim.
  • Established in 2000 with a headquarters in
    Switzerland, bluesign technologies ag are working
    with the likes of Patagonia, Mountain Equipment
    Co-op, vauDe, Nike, Marks and Spencer, Eschler,
    Formosa Taffeta, Schoeller, Clariant, and
    Huntsman.

24
Terra Plana Sustainable Footwear
TERRA PLANA tries hard to use a variety of
eco-friendly materials and innovative minimal
glue constructions. Shoes that are good for you,
shoes made from recycled materials, the minimum
shoe. The totally sustainable shoe is still a
long way off but with each collection we get that
little bit closer.
Suzy Menkes on Estethica at the London Fashion
Week
25
International Fair Trade Association (IFAT)Key
Principles Of Fair Trade
  • 1. Creating opportunities for economically
    disadvantaged producers
  • Fair Trade is a strategy for poverty alleviation
    and sustainable development. Its purpose is to
    create opportunities for producers who have been
    economically disadvantaged or marginalized by the
    conventional trading system.

26
  • 2. Transparency and accountability
  • Fair Trade involves transparent management and
    commercial relations to deal fairly and
    respectfully with trading partners.
  • 3. Capacity building
  • Fair Trade is a means to develop producers
    independence. Fair Trade relationships provide
    continuity, during which producers and their
    marketing organizations can improve their
    management skills and their access to new
    markets.

27
  • 4. Payment of a fair price
  • A fair price in the regional or local context is
    one that has been agreed through dialogue and
    participation. It covers not only the costs of
    production but enables production which is
    socially just and environmentally sound. It
    provides fair pay to the producers and takes into
    account the principle of equal pay for equal work
    by women and men. Fair Traders ensure prompt
    payment to their partners and, whenever possible,
    help producers with access to pre-harvest or
    pre-production financing.
  • 5. Gender Equity
  • Fair Trade means that womens work is properly
    valued and rewarded. Women are always paid for
    their contribution to the production process and
    are empowered in their organizations.

28
  • 6. Working conditions
  • Fair Trade means a safe and healthy working
    environment for producers. The participation of
    children (if any) does not adversely affect their
    well-being, security, educational requirements
    and need for play and conforms to the UN
    Convention on the Rights of the Child as well as
    the law and norms in the local context.
  • http//www.tenthousandvillages.com/php/fair.trade/
    ifat.php
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