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ROCOCO

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Early 1700's in men's fashion similar to Restoration ... Is guillotined himself when the Directory is established 'SANS CULOTTES' ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: ROCOCO


1
ROCOCO
  • 18TH CENTURY
  • Rock and shell

2
Early rococo-Men
  • Early 1700s in mens fashion similar to
    Restoration
  • Louis XIV still rules in France, George I
    (pictured) gains throne in 1714
  • Most male garments remain in use, with variations

3
Rococo-men
  • JUSTACORPS gets fuller skirt, retains boot
    cuffs
  • WAISTCOAT is long, usually same length as
    justacorp
  • BREECHES narrow
  • Long periwigs popular
  • TRICORNE hat is popular through century

4
Rococo-men
  • Louis XV takes throne after Regency in 1723
  • His mistresses, Madame de Pompadour and Madame du
    Barry, exert great stylistic influence on the
    court and fashion
  • Relaxed, frivolous, luxurious, sensual, elegant,
    feminine
  • Expansion of palace at Versailles

5
Rococo-men
  • _at_ 1720 long waistcoat, no collar
  • Periwig

6
  • American 1715

7
  • Boys suits, _at_ 1700

8
Rococo-men
  • 1729
  • Full-skirted justacorps
  • Long Waistcoat
  • BAG WIG
  • Tricorne

9
Rococo-men
  • BAGWIG hair caught in back in a black bag, tied
    with a bow

10
Rococo-men
  • BAGWIG and other methods of binding hair

11
Rococo-men
  • SHIRT May have a tall collar band or a fold-over
    collar
  • Front opening may be simple split or have ruffles
    sewn into edge-JABOT
  • Long sleeves usually end in a cuff band and/or
    ruffle ruffle may be of lace or shirt material

12
Rococo-men
  • WAISTCOAT Early 1700s, brocade

13
Rococo-men
  • Modern Re-creation, _at_1720-30
  • Fuller skirt, no collar, Boot cuffs
  • Tricorne

14
Rococo-men
  • George II

15
Clocking
  • Decorative embroidery on stockings, particularly
    mens hosiery, at the ankle

16
Rococo-men
  • Modern re-creation, _at_1740
  • Note long waistcoat, but trimmer cut to coat,
    still no collar
  • Buckled shoes

17
Rococo-men
  • Modern re-creation, _at_1750
  • Note Boot Cuff, narrower cut to justacorps, no
    collar

18
Rococo-men
  • _at_ 1740 trimmer cut to justacorps, no collar
  • Still a long waistcoat
  • Tricorne hat
  • Jabot

19
Mans Suit _at_1745
  • Notice full-skirted coat, boot-cuff, long
    embroidered waistcoat

20
Rococo-men
  • BREECHES remain about the same for most of the
    century, with FRONT FALL opening, buttoned legs
    ending below knee, lacing at CB to adjust fit

21
Rococo-men
  • BANYAN a long, loose robe, worn about the house,
    like a smoking jacket
  • Often worn with a cap or turban-like hat

22
Rococo-men
  • _at_ 1760s
  • Blue silk suit, embroidered in silver
  • Lace JABOT
  • BAGWIG
  • TRICORNE

23
Blue Suit, close-up
24
Blue Suit, close up of embroidery, jabot
25
Rococo-men
  • Actual garments from _at_ 1760
  • Note trimmer cut to justacorps, small stand
    collar, narrower sleeves
  • Shorter waistcoat

26
Rococo-men
  • _at_1760
  • Narrow justacorps, cut far back at sides, small
    stand collar
  • Tricorne
  • Cravat

27
the marriage contract
28
Mans Red Suit, _at_ 1760s
29
Mans Blue Suit, _at_1760s
  • Still has long waistcoat, but sleeves are
    trimmer, small stand collar

30
Rococo-men
  • Embroidered Waistcoat, _at_1770

31
Rococo-men
  • Later 1700s Note trim cut of coat, high collar,
    lack of large cuff
  • Note trim fit of breeches

32
Modern man wearing actual garments from _at_ 1785
  • Note trim cut of coat, high collar
  • Short waistcoat
  • Watchfob

33
Watchfobs
  • Clips or pins to waistband of breeches, hangs out
    from under vest
  • These are particularly ornate examples often
    worn on a wide velvet or satin ribbon

34
Rococo- men and women
  • This painting from _at_ 1740 shows woman in SACQUE
    or WATTEAU GOWN, also known as ROBE A LA
    FRANCAISE
  • Men in periwigs, long and shorter waistcoats

35
Rococo-women
  • Modern woman wearing actual garment from 1760s
  • SACQUE GOWN tell-tale pleats hanging from back,
    cut in-one with the skirt

36
Sacque Gown
  • Known by various names Sacque Gown, Sacque-back
    gown, Watteau gown, Robe a la Francaise
  • In this style the bodice and skirt of the robe
    are cut together and go on like a jacket over the
    corset and petticoat

37
Womens Shoes
  • Very decorative
  • High-heeled
  • This style is known as having the French heel

38
Rococo-women
  • Typical gown of the 1750s, 1760s

39
PANNIERS
  • Used through most of century, particularly at
    court and in high society French were largest,
    English and American were smaller
  • Term comes from French meaning bread baskets

40
PANNIERS
  • May also be a full hoop structure held flat front
    and back with ties inside, or separate side
    baskets (popular in England)

41
PANNIERS
  • Lady in large PANNIERS, _at_ 1770

42
Dancer in Panniers
  • Shes holding out her apron, a popular accessory
    in the later 1700s, especially when Marie
    Antoinette was playing shepherdess on her
    miniature farm!

43
An extreme form of Pannier, referred to at the
time as a MANTUA
  • Very flat from front to back, fabric fitted
    closely to hoops, displays ornate brocade and
    embroidery, used only at court

44
Rococo-women
  • Older woman, _at_ 1740
  • ENGAGEANTS lace sleeve ruffles that show below
    the bodice sleeve
  • Usually a separate item tied to the arm to look
    like a ruffle on the chemise

45
Modern Woman wearing actual garments from _at_
1775-1785
46
Rococo-women
  • CALASH _at_ 1765
  • A wire or reed-supported hood-like bonnet
  • Protected tall hairstyles from weather
  • Looks a little like a Conestoga wagon!

47
Typical gown of _at_1770
  • Note PANNIERS
  • ENGAGEANTS
  • ECHELLES

48
Modern woman wearing actual garments from _at_1775
  • Notice CALASH,
  • Robe a la Polanaise
  • Quilted petticoat

49
Rococo-women
  • Court dress, _at_1779

50
Les Liasons Dangereuse
  • Glenn Close wears typical gown of the 1770s,
    with a BERGERE HAT

51
Les Liasons Dangereuse
52
Actual court gown, _at_1780
53
Madame de Pompadour, mistress to Louis XV, _at_ 1755
54
Madame de Pompadour
55
Madame de Pompadour
  • Notice ROBE over edge of STOMACHER
  • Bodice probably has pocket attached to inside to
    hold a BOSOM BOTTLE, a glass vial in which to
    insert fresh flowers

56
Bodice detail showing Robe over stomacher
57
Madame de Pompadour
58
The Swing by Fragonard
  • Notice BERGERE hat
  • Man wears BAGWIG or TOUPET
  • Man has JABOT
  • Notice womans shoe flying off!

59
Dancer in Panniers, Polonaise
60
Bodice and Petticoat from _at_ 1775, missing Robe
61
Rococo-women
  • CARACO refers to a jacket-like bodice, worn over
    stays and stomacher, with a short skirt. Skirts
    could be quite short and almost disappear by the
    end of the century
  • This caraco is worn with a FICHU

62
The Escape by Fragonard
  • _at_ 1785-1790
  • Notice fichu, open robe

63
Transitional Period, _at_1785
  • Notice extreme hairstyles, collapse of panniers

64
Revolutionary1775-1795
  • 1776-1778 American Revolution against England
    and George III
  • Patrick Henry (pictured) Give me liberty or
    give me death!
  • 1789-1795 French Revolution against excesses of
    the monarchy and aristocracy Bastille Day
  • 1793 Beheading of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
  • 1793-95 The Reign of Terror
  • 1795 Directory Established

65
Revolutionary 1775-1795
  • PANNIERS collapse during French Revolution, large
    overskirts bunched to back
  • HEDGEHOG Hairstyle, large and frizzy for both men
    and women
  • Man wears BANYAN

66
REVOLUTIONARY
  • Mens waistcoats are quite short, coats have
    larger collars

67
revolutionary
  • Older woman in MOBCAP
  • FICHU fabric or lace scarf/shawl draped around
    neck, tucked into sash or neckline of bodice, or
    tied on outside

68
revolutionary
  • HEDGEHOG hair, large and frizzy, with curls
    hanging down back
  • FICHU
  • Large hats, now referred to as GAINSBOROUGH hats
    because they show up frequently in the painters
    portraits

69
Revolutionary
  • Emphasis on chest, bosom, pouter-pidgeon
    silhouette
  • Trim, long sleeves
  • Lack of understructure, soft, natural waist,
    often has a sash

70
Women painters, late 1780s
  • Notice hedgehog hair, fichu, large hat
  • Skirt and panniers sometimes had slits in top to
    allow access, like a pocket

71
revolutionary
  • Mans Justacorps cut narrow, pulled to the back,
    high collar, probably English
  • Woman in English gown with red sash, hedgehog
    hair and mobcap

72
Revolutionary
  • Woman _at_ 1795, probably English

73
ROBESPIERRE
  • Organizer of the French Revolution
  • Oversees capture, imprisonment, and execution of
    the King and Queen
  • Runs the democratic government during the Reign
    of Terror
  • Is guillotined himself when the Directory is
    established

74
SANS CULOTTES
  • Means without breeches
  • Refers to the revolutionaries in France who saw
    knee breeches as a symbol of the hated
    Aristocracy peasant men wore pants more like
    modern trousers, which became a symbol of the
    Resistance
  • BICORNE hat with brim pushed up front and back
  • COCKADE red, or red,white, and blue ribbon,
    usually in a rosette. Worn on hat or jacket to
    signify support for the revolution

75
French Patriot, _at_1793
  • Notice trim-fit trousers, short vest, tri-color
    baldric
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