OPERATING SYSTEMS OF THE HOME

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OPERATING SYSTEMS OF THE HOME
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A well-planned electrical system can prevent
overloading of circuits, loss of power, and even
electrical fires. There are numerous components
of an electrical system
Electrical systems...
AMPERE A unit of current used to measure the
amount of electricity flowing through a wire
during a specific amount of time
CIRCUIT A path through which electricity flows
from a source to the outlets and back to the
source
CIRCUIT BREAKER A device that opens (turns off
or trips) and closes (turns on) a circuit it
opens automatically when a circuit is overloaded
CONDUCTOR Any material which permits the flow
of electricity usually a wire
CONVENIENCE OUTLET A device attached to a
circuit that allows appliances or lighting to
draw off electricity from a circuit
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FUSE A safety device that was a forerunner to
the circuit breaker it opens automatically when
a circuit is overloaded by melting a link its
chamber
SERVICE ENTRANCE PANEL The main distribution
box that receives the electricity as it comes
into the house and distributes it to various
points throughout the home it contains the main
disconnect switch and the fuses or circuit
breakers
VOLTAGE A measure of the pressure which forces
the electrical current through a wire
WATT A measure of electrical power the number
of amperes in a circuit multiplied by the number
of volts the number of watts the circuit
provides
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Expanding an electrical system is expensive and
time- consuming, so care should be taken to
account for present and future needs during
initial planning.
Electrical engineers, draftsman, and certified
electricians draw and follow detailed electrical
diagrams.
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This is a duplex receptacle that accommodates a
two-prong plug plus a grounding terminal for
three-prong plugs. This type of outlet provides
110/120V of electricity for nearly all uses in
the home.
Some appliances require 220/240V of electricity.
These are usually large heat-producing appliances
such as kitchen ranges and clothes dryers, or
some window air-conditioners. These receptacles
are usually larger in size with openings
specifically arranged for three-pronged plugs.
The GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter)
receptacle has test and/or reset buttons. It
protects against electric shock if there is a
short in an appliance. It is especially important
to use these outlets in areas near water sources,
such as by the bathroom vanity or pool.
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Plumbing systems...

• There are three primary parts to a residential
  plumbing system
• The water supply system
• The wastewater removal system
• The plumbing fixtures

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THE WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM
The residential water supply begins at a city
water main or at a private well. The pipe leading
from one of those sources then
enters the house
under pressure via a building main .
A shutoff valve controls the water entering the
house. From there it branches off, but may be
routed through a treatment system such as a water
softener or water filter first.
Some cold water is routed throughout the house,
while some is sent to a hot water heater before
it is circulated. Shut off valves near fixtures
or branch lines allow you to shut off sections of
plumbing instead of the entire system.
Cold water lines are routed through the house, or
to the hot water heater they may to a water
treatment system here first
Building main
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THE WASTEWATER REMOVAL SYSTEM
Wastewater is carried down the drains and to a
sanitary sewer or private septic tank. The
wastewater system is not pressurized, but depends
on gravity for drainage. Waste water contains
harmful gases. The loop in a pipe under a sink
(called a trap) holds water in it to prevent the
gases from entering the house. Then ventilation
systems called soil stacks extend from inside the
house to an opening above the roofline to allow
the gases to vent out.
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THE PLUMBING FIXTURES
A plumbing fixture is any appliance that is
connected to the plumbing system, such as a
shower stall, bathtub, sink, dishwasher, or
toilet.
When selecting plumbing fixtures you should
consider style, size, fixture material, floor or
wall support for the fixture, and the water
supply and drain requirements.
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A total climate control system involves
temperature control, humidity control, air
circulation, and air cleaning.
Climate control...
FIREPLACES
A fireplace might burn wood, which requires a
wood supply, wood storage, and ash removal.
Instead, it could be electric or gas-fired to
resemble a wood fire, and might be controlled by
a wall switch or remote control. In general, a
fireplace consists of a firebox, damper, and
flue. A fireplace can provide a certain ambiance
or warmth or both.
The firebox actually contains the fire, and must
be a fire-proof substance. At the top of the
firebox is the damper, which controls the burn
rate and prevents downdrafts of cold air. The
flue carries smoke to the outside of the house
and facilitates a draft. The draft draws in
sufficient oxygen for the fire to burn. Safety
from sparks is a major concern with some
fireplaces.
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STOVES
Stoves generally provide more efficient heat than
fireplaces, and are usually fueled by either wood
or coal. If you stand close to the stove you can
feel the radiant heat from the hot exterior
surface. With the addition of a fan, airflow is
improved and circulates the heated air throughout
the room or house.
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CONVENTIONAL HEATING SYSTEMS
A FORCED WARM-AIR SYSTEM uses a furnace and
electricity or gas (natural gas or liquid
propane) to heat the air, a blower to bring cold
air into the furnace and push heated air out, and
a system of ductwork to distribute the air
throughout the home. A thermostat is used to set
the desired temperature, and the furnace responds
in heating cycles.
A HYDRONIC SYSTEM uses hot water to heat a home.
Water is heated in a boiler by gas, fuel oil,
wood, coal, or electricity. The hot water is
pumped through pipes in floors or leading to
radiators within the living space. As the water
cools, it is recirculated. ELECTRIC RADIANT
SYSTEMS use resistance wiring to produce heat in
the wire. The wires are embedded in the ceiling
or floor or mounted in baseboard convectors.
CENTRAL HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS use a refrigeration
unit consisting of a compressor, a refrigerant
fluid, and heat exchangers. In cold weather, the
heat is removed from outside air and pumped into
the house.
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SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS
PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS uses glass and
concrete in the structure of the house to collect
and contain heat without an air distribution
system. ACTIVE SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS use special
solar collectors to absorb heat and send it to a
collection area filled with water or stones.
Distribution of heat from the collection area is
accomplished with forced air or a water pump.
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COOLING SYSTEMS
CENTRAL HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS use a refrigeration
unit consisting of a compressor, a refrigerant
fluid, and heat exchangers. In warm weather, heat
is removed from in the house and pumped outside.
COMPRESSOR-CYCLE SYSTEMS use a highly compressed
chemical refrigerant to cool air. It uses a
compressor/condenser unit located outside the
home. This system is used in conjunction with a
furnace, using the blower to circulate the cooled
air throughout the house. As the air is cooled,
moisture condenses and is drained away
dehumidifying the air and increasing the level of
comfort.
WINDOW AIR CONDITIONERS are not cooling systems,
but do provide local cooling. It is more
expensive and less efficient than central air
systems. The compressor, condenser, cooling
coil, and fan are all in one unit. They are
installed directly in a window to draw in air.
They plug in, and operate on 120V or 240V.
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The purpose of insulation in a structure is to
prevent excessive heat loss in cold weather and
excessive heat gain in warm weather. The
insulation material resists the flow of heat
through it.
Insulation...
Common insulation materials include fiberglass,
foamed glass, foamed plastics, and expanded
minerals such as vermiculite.

An insulations level of resistance to heat is
designated as its R-value. The higher the
R-Value, the better the insulating qualities.
Different areas of your home need different
levels of insulation. Recommendations for
midwest housing are Attic R-38 to R-44,
Sidewalls R-11 to R-18, Basement R-10 to R-19
,Crawlspace R-19
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Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air.
Humidity control...
Low humidity in the home can cause throat and
skin irritation and cracks in wooden furniture.
When air is dry, static electricity also builds
up. A humidifier, a free-standing unit or one
attached to a forced-air furnace, can add
moisture to the air.
High humidity in the home feels sticky and
uncomfortable. It can even cause wooden doors,
windows, and drawers to swell and stick.
Condensation may occur as well, causing wood to
warp. A dehumidifier, often a portable unit,
removes evaporated water from the air by
condensing it on cold coils. The accumulated
water would need to be drained away or emptied
periodically.
Excess humidity in the home, caused by leaks or
improper ventilation, can encourage the growth of
mold. It can smell bad and deteriorate air
quality. It can even cause toxic black mold,
which has been linked to memory loss and
breathing problems.
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Good air circulation can prevent air in the home
from becoming stale, and can add to comfort
levels.
Air circulation..
Warm air rises and cold air falls, so a fan to
circulate the air can moderate temperatures. A
ceiling fan can blow air down, or in reverse it
can draw air up.
A circulation system on a central heating system
brings in fresh air from the outside. It and
attic fans help with air circulation as well.
Any type of fan can move the air and help
eliminate areas with high concentrations of
moisture, smoke, or fumes.
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An air cleaning device removes dust and foreign
materials from the air, improving air quality and
possibly diminishing some allergies.
Air cleaning...
Built-in filters on furnaces or electronic air
cleaning grids remove dust particles, smoke,
odors, and pet dander from the air. A grid works
by placing an electronic charge on each airborne
contaminant and attaching these particles to a
metal plate. The accumulated dust and dirt is
removed when the filter is changed or cleaned.
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Monitoring air quality for safety...
Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas that is
produced by the incomplete burning of fossil
fuels such as natural gas, propane, coal, oil,
charcoal, and wood. This gas is colorless,
tasteless, and odorless. It can cause headaches,
nausea, and dizziness in low levels or
unconsciousness, brain damage, or death at high
levels. A carbon monoxide detector sounds an
alarm as gas levels approach unacceptable levels.
Smoke detectors should be placed on each level of
the house, or even outside each bedroom. They are
powered by batteries or by household current with
a battery backup. They detect the presence of
smoke particles present during a fire, sounding
an alarm to alert residents.
Radon is an invisible, odorless, radioactive gas.
Radon is in soil, ground water, and building
materials. High levels may increase the risk of
lung cancer. Good ventilation and air circulation
can prevent these high levels.
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Home security systems...
Security perimeter entry, glass breakage,
smoke/heat detection, and motion sensing High
water detection, temperature monitoring, and
power loss Notification when children arrive
home from school Control lighting and other
devices remotely from any telephone Supervise
children's play areas, the front door, the pool,
or other areas Remote home surveillance
monitoring from any computer Room-to-room
intercom and door intercom Entry access and
keyless entry Driveway vehicle alert
Automatically alerts law officials (monthly
service fee required)
Components such as keypads, sensors, cameras,
computers, and telephones can be used to set up a
home security system.
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Energy conservation...
Energy costs money and is a limited resource,
so care should be taken to conserve it. The U.S.
Department of Energy estimates that the average
home uses energy as follows 44 for heating and
cooling 33
for lighting, cooking, and appliances
14 for water heating
9 for the refrigerator
Use weather stripping and caulk/foam to seal
cracks around windows, doors, walls, and
floors. Change air filters in the heating and
cooling systems of your home once a month or as
needed. Replace older appliances with new, more
energy efficient models. Replace regular
incandescent light bulbs with newer more
efficient light bulbs. Set your hot water heater
at the normal 120 degree F setting. Use cold
water for washing clothes whenever possible. Run
clothes and dishwashers with full loads. Adjust
or program your thermostat, raising it in the
summer and lowering it in the winter when youre
not home.
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Use shades, overhangs, awnings, trees, curtains,
or blinds to block the sun and keep your home
cool in warm weather. Put your computer in
hibernate mode when not in use for 10 minutes
or more. Install storm windows and doors as
needed. Keep the fireplace damper closed unless a
fire is going. Scrape but dont rinse dishes
before putting them in the dishwasher. Avoid
using the rinse/hold feature unless necessary.
Run the dishwasher full, but not overloaded. Let
the dishes air dry. Keep the clothes dryer vent
clean. Dry heavy items separately from
lightweight items. Use the moisture sensor
instead of the timed cycle if its
available. Turn off lights when not in use. Take
advantage of daylight by using light-emitting
window treatments.
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Cable and telephone systems...
Landline telephones, television, and computer
communications require pre-wiring in homes. This
interior wiring branches out from a network
interface device on the outside of the home. Use
care in planning this wiring. Updates are
expensive and time consuming, and exposed wiring
may be visible on the outside of the home. Plan
for present and future needs.
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OPERATING SYSTEMS OF THE HOME
The End
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• Preparing individuals for life and work
• Strengthening families
• Empowering communities
• Created by Barbara L. Swarthout, Family
  Consumer Sciences teacher at Elkhorn High School