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Fusion Cuisine: The New Zealand Experience

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Title: Fusion Cuisine: The New Zealand Experience


1
Fusion Cuisine The New Zealand Experience
  • C. Michael Hall
  • Contact Department of Management, College of
    Business Economics, University of Canterbury,
    Christchurch, New Zealand Michael.Hall_at_canterbury.
    ac.nz
  • Department of Geography, University of Oulu,
    Finland
  • Formerly University of Otago, cmhall_at_business.otag
    o.ac.nz

2
Understanding Fusion Cuisine
  • Arguably unless a cultural group has existed in
    complete isolation all cuisine and foodways are a
    form of fusion cuisine
  • Issues of scale of analysis - particularly in
    time - so as to understand cuisine change and
    defining cuisines
  • The importance of commodification and
    institutional practices in defining cuisine

3
Sources of fusion
  • Movement of people affecting production and
    consumption
  • Plants and animals
  • Foodstuffs
  • Technology transport, food, refrigeration,
    cooking
  • Taste/fashion

4
Fusion Cuisine
  • there is a need to differentiate between
  • organically developed fusion cuisine, i.e.
    foodways that have developed without a conscious
    desire to commodify foodways, that are often
    described as creole
  • commodified fusion cuisine, i.e. cuisine that has
    been consciously developed from different
    foodways in order to commodify the product for
    consumption.

5
Fusion Cuisine
  • The two types should be seen as occurring on a
    continuum as there will be mutual interaction
    over time, as commodified fusion cuisine enters
    the foodways of popular culture and vice-versa
  • role of media and communication in this process
  • ongoing role of human mobility
  • ongoing role of fashion and taste

6
Fusion creole
  • Some creolised cuisines that are sometimes
    described as fusion are in a sense pre-modern
    in that they developed prior to a conscious
    reflexivity on food and identity and the
    institutionalisation of foodways although these -
    as in the case of Macau, Singapore and New
    Orleans are increasingly becoming commodified and
    institutionalised

7
Why New Zealand?
  • Seen as one of the key sources of fusion cuisine
    - particularly Peter Gordon
  • Migrant society, range of geographical
    environments important contributing factors
  • Chef producer mobility / consumer mobility
  • Export economy - tourism, agriculture and primary
    produce - innovation as part of export economy

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15
Layers of Fusion
  • Availability of different ingredients -
    environmental fusions
  • Availability of a range of different types of
    cuisine to consume - increased choice for
    consumption
  • Commodified fusion cuisine also related to the
    availability of ingredients, fusion cuisine
    created from the larders of the world
    (www.newzealand.com - describing Peter Gordon one
    of the guides of The gourmets garden virtual
    tour of 100 Pure New Zealand)

16
Destination-NZ.coma true taste of New Zealand
  • FRESH FUSION - NEW ZEALAND FOOD
  • The inhabitants of these islands are relaxed and
    open-minded in their approach to new foods and
    different styles of cooking. New Zealanders are
    as likely to own a wok as they are a barbeque.
    Yet the nation is gradually developing a style
    all its own. Fusion cuisine - blending flavours
    from nations around the Pacific - is a fresh and
    vibrant style that has found its way to the style
    capitals of the world thanks to trend-setting New
    Zealand chefs such as Peter Gordon and their
    award-winning restaurants, but New Zealand
    remains a natural home.
  • Fusion cuisine works particularly well in New
    Zealand due to the abundance of high quality
    fresh produce available.

17
Viewlondon.co.uk
  • Fusion cooking has emanated from the desire to
    make food more diverse and interesting and to
    ignite excitement in new ingredients and fresh
    combinations of ingredients
  • The kitchens of Australia and New Zealand are
    responsible for fusion cuisine. A combination of
    classically trained chefs, fresh local produce
    and close links with South East Asia led to the
    development of a new approach to cooking (Carlina
    Macdonald 2006)

18
Fusion Cuisine dishes
  • Examples used by Greg Heffernan, Advisory Chef NZ
    Beef Lamb Marketing Bureau, in 1998
    presentation at World Association of Cooks
    Societies.
  • These dishes are indicative of the variety of
    flavours and sources of inspiration drawn on by a
    Pacific Rim chef. They are a good example of the
    fusion of defined cultures blended by a typical,
    classically trained Pacific Rim chef

19
Four examples
  • Lamb steaks with Chermoula, Chickpeas and
    Aromatics (Mediterranean influence)
  • Shortloin of Lamb with Tortilla Cake and
    Fire-Roasted Tomatoes (Mexican influence)
  • Pan-fried Sirloin Steak with Cous Cous and Lavash
    (North African/Middle East)
  • Spicy Marinated Beef with Green Beans and Red
    Miso Salad (Japan/NE Asia)

20
The evolution of new zealand cuisineNew
Zealand Beef Lamb www.nzbeeflamb.co.nz
  • The last decade has seen the gradual emergence of
    fusion cuisine a fusion or blending of culinary
    cultures Fusion cuisine is a result of the
    accessibility of the Global Village. Increasing
    numbers of people are travelling, experimenting
    and experiencing. Many have settled permanently
    in new countries, introducing the cultures and
    traditions of their homelands.
  • Pacific Rim cuisine reflects our proximity to
    the kitchens of South East Asia, the Pacific and
    Japan. It is a fusion of ethnic Pacific and Asian
    cultures with our own traditional Anglo-Saxon
    heritage. Chilli, wasabi, coriander, noodles and
    sushi are an intrinsic part of contemporary Kiwi
    culinary language and represent the advent of
    Global cuisine down under.
  • The integration of gastronomic osmosis will
    continue to drive the evolution of cuisine, as
    will the determination of those at the coal face
    whose dedication to the search for edible
    perfection, shapes our culinary future

21
Yet how big is it really?
  • www.thekiwiholiday.com/view-restaurants has
    listings (and ratings) of 504 restaurants
  • Eclectic 2
  • Fusion 3
  • Pacific Rim 12
  • Contemporary 24
  • International 65
  • Compare American 3 Chinese 25 French 7 Indian
    / Pakistani 32 Italian 27 Mexican 7 Thai 32
    Turkish 8 Vietnamese 5.

22
Historical dimensions
  • A content analysis of New Zealand Womens weekly
    indicates that the diversity of ingredients in
    the early 2000s is little different from that of
    the 1930s
  • Some changes in cooking styles and produce,
    particularly noodles
  • Range of meats and meat cuts is now less diverse

23
Is fusion cuisine a cuisine?
  • Is it describing as some would suggest just
    experimentation and innovation? - cross-cultural
    invention access to new ingredients
  • Certainly not alone in seeking fresh ingredients!
  • Can fusion cuisine be readily codified as other
    cuisines have been? - and have such codifications
    accepted? - The simple fact is that the catch
    phrase of fusion cuisine has taken hold only in
    places that have not developed their own great
    cuisine. The term is as commonly heard today in
    Australia, New Zealand and Canada as it is in the
    United States (Daniel Rogov - the dubious past
    of fusion cuisine)

24
A Cooks Tour
  • Undoubtedly there is a lot of food
    experimentation, innovation and diffusion going
    on
  • As much to do with finding a competitive niche in
    the market as it is with an intrinsic love of the
    new - the role of media and place marketers is
    intrinsic to the promotion of fusion cuisine
  • Perhaps if its repeated often enough then we come
    to believe it? The role of the tastemakers in
    cuisine therefore becomes very important. But
    perhaps there is confusion between a wider range
    of different cuisine styles and actual fusion
    between those styles in terms of what is being
    served on the restaurant plate?

25
Much Ado About Nothing?
  • Intellectual representations of restaurant,
    hospitality and export commodifications vs
    realities
  • Yet there is a wider selection of eating styles
    and cuisines yet the extent to which they have
    become confused or fused is open to debate
  • As much an intellectual and competitive construct
    as it is to do with the realities of cuisine and
    foodways in New Zealand (and elsewhere?) that
    reflect a modern outlook on issues of identity,
    fashion and taste

26
More gastronomically
  • Fusion cuisine is a fluid concept. It is cuisine
    continually in the process of becoming for which
    sanctioned codification and institutionalisation
    has not occurred
  • Fusion cuisine has always existed at metropolitan
    places and locations where foodways meet. The
    difference is that it has now been recognised as
    a source of differentiation in consumption
    (taste) and production (competitiveness)

27
  • In a mobile world all food is local now (at least
    for those that can afford it or want it!) - yet
    not all foodways are becoming a global fusion
    cuisine because of
  • resistance local food focus,
  • institutionalisation and
  • the nature of globalisation itself -
    globalisation is a complex, chaotic,
    multiscalar, multitemporal and multicentric
    series of processes operating in particular
    structural and spatial contexts

28
GLOBALISATION
global foods brands food fusions by
combining styles ingredients promoting
otherness difference globally
RATE OF CHANGE IN CUISINE AND FOODWAYS
differentiation on the basis of local produce
cuisine buy local campaigns / resisting
global products brands reduce food miles
LOCALISATION
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