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Insect Collections

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Remove butterflies and moths from the killing jar fairly soon so their wings do ... Adjust the position of the butterfly on the pin and make sure that it is level, ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Insect Collections


1
Insect Collections
2
Arthropods
  • Insects belong to the largest phylum of animals
    known as arthropods.  Many small arthropods are
    mistaken for insects such as spiders, ticks,
    millipedes, centipedes.

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3
All Insects Must Have
  • three body parts - head, thorax, and abdomen
  • six jointed legs
  • two antennae to sense the world around them
  • an exoskeleton (outside skeleton)

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4
Where do I find insects
  • Insects feed on leaves, stems, roots, flowers and
    fruits.
  • The best insect collecting is often in diverse
    habitats.
  • Always be careful not to damage plants when
    collecting your insects.
  • Dig in soil or chop into a dying tree or rotting
    log to discover some interesting insects.
  • Collect insects before the first frost, usually
    by mid September.

5
Preserving Insects
  • The Killing Jar Insects must
    be killed before pinning and mounting. Killing
    jars are used as a sort of small scale
    fumigation to kill collected insects as rapidly
    as possible, using a liquid fumigant or killing
    agent (nail polish remover - must contain ethyl
    acetate) that produces a toxic atmosphere that
    the insect cannot breath.
  • It is possible to make suitable killing jars
    with nearly any jar used for jam or jelly and
    baby food jars are especially handy. Do not use
    plastic containers, because the chemical killing
    agent may damage them.

6
  • In the bottom of each jar, place about 1 to 1 1/2
    inches of absorbent material, such as cotton,
    shredded newspaper, or sawdust. With paper-or
    fiber-filled jars, cut a cardboard circle just
    slightly larger than the inside diameter of the
    jar and push it into the opening against the
    material in the bottom. Wrap the outside bottom
    third of each jar with masking tape to prevent
    cuts in case the jar is broken. Attach a label
    that says POISON to each jar and store the jars
    out of reach of children (or irresponsible
    adults) until you are ready to go collecting.
  • As the killing jar is used, it will lose its
    strength so the killing agent must be replenished
    from time to time. Also, tear up some strips of
    paper, crumple them slightly and place them in
    each jar. This will help to prevent insects from
    damaging one another.

7
  • If a killing jar is not available, freezing is
    another way to kill insects. Simply place your
    specimens in a plastic bag (the Zip-Lock kind is
    nice) or small jar and put them in the freezer
    for an hour or two.
  • Do not handle them again until they are thawed or
    legs and antennae may break. And dont forget
    them in the freezer. Insects, like food, left
    too long in the freezer for several days or weeks
    will desiccate and remain dry and stiff, even
    when thawed.
  • If pinned when dry, these insects will break
    during handling and wings, especially of
    Lepidoptera, will be impossible to spread.
  • Remember that specimen quality is an important
    consideration in grading insect collections.

8
Butterflies Moths
  • Pinching the thorax of large butterflies or moths
    before placing them in the killing jar will
    prevent them from flopping around and damaging
    the wings.
  • Squeeze them for 20-30 seconds between thumb and
    index finger and put them in the killing jar.
  • This procedure stuns the insects so they do not
    flutter once inside the jar.
  • Remove butterflies and moths from the killing jar
    fairly soon so their wings do not become soaked
    with killing agent.

9
Relaxing Jar
  • We recognize that while insects should be pinned
    on the same day they were collected, this is not
    always possible.
  • So before pinning these specimens left in the
    killing jar or freezer too long, to restore their
    flexibility, it is necessary to relax them.
  • By placing them in a relaxing jar at high
    humidity for a few days we can restore their
    flexibility enough to allow pinning without
    damage to the specimens.
  • Relaxing is always a risky process and, if
    carelessly done, the specimens may be ruined.

10
Making a Relaxing Jar
  • Use a separate jar as the relaxer.
  • Place some absorbent material such as newspaper,
    sand or cotton in the bottom.
  • Cut a blotting paper disk to fit tightly inside.
  • Moisten the material with water and add a drop or
    two of ethyl acetate, Lysol, or laundry beach to
    prevent mold.
  • Place insects on the paper, close the jar tightly
    and let it sit for about 2-3 days.
  • Check the jar. If the insects are flexible, mount
    them immediately.
  • If the specimens are still too stiff, keep them
    in the relaxer for a few more days, but watch
    them carefully. Insects will mold and decompose
    if held in the relaxer too long.

11
Pinning Insects
  • The proper way to pin an insect depends on the
    type of insect that you have collected.
  • The diagram illustrates the proper way to pin
    various orders of insects.
  • Note that the pin is usually just slightly to the
    right of the midline of the insect.
  • Specimens should also be level and squarely
    mounted on the pin as shown.
  • The use of a pinning block will help in obtaining
    proper height and positioning.

12
How To Make A Pinning Block
  • Make the block from strips of wood or Styrofoam
    1-inch wide by 1/4 inch thick.
  • Cut a 3-inch, a 2 inch and a 1-inch long piece
    from your wood strip, and glue them together in
    step fashion as shown.
  • Next, drill three small holes as shown all the
    way through the block. You can use a small sized
    finishing nail for the drill bit.
  • Then glue another 3 inch strip to the bottom of
    the block to cover the bottom of the drilled
    holes.

13
How To Use A Pinning Block
  • On the top step of the pinning block place the
    pin in the insect thorax in the proper position.
  • Push the insect close to the pin head.
  • Remove the pin from the top step, reverse it and
    place the head of the pin in the lowest step of
    the pinning block.
  • Push the insect down as far as it will go.
  • This will result in positioning each insect about
    one-fourth inch from the pin head.
  • The middle step on the block is to position the
    collection label.
  • The lowest step is used to position the insect
    identification label.

14
Labels
  • Make your labels using, TNR-size 8, with your
    computer and print them off.
  • Trim labels so the edges make nice, clean, and
    flat rectangles.
  • Two labels should be placed on the pin below each
    insect specimen.
  • Both labels should be of the same size and lined
    up parallel to the length of the body of the
    insect (not cross-wise).
  • The insect head should be at the left and the
    label should read from left to right.
  • The top label should have the location where the
    insect was collected (ex found on a tomato
    plant) and the collection date.
  • The lower label should show the name of the
    insect.

15
When pinning and spreading a butterfly or moth
  • Cut several thin strips of paper about 1/4" wide
    and 8"-10" long.
  • Pick up the insect by the thorax and carefully
    push a pin through the middle of the thorax.
  • Adjust the position of the butterfly on the pin
    and make sure that it is level, both on the sides
    and in both front and back.
  • Place the pin into the hole in the tallest step
    of the pinning block, being careful not to damage
    the fragile wings.
  • Adjust the width of the groove in the spreading
    board to be just slightly wider than the body of
    the butterfly.
  • Remove the pinned insect from the pinning block
    and push the pin into the slot of your spreading
    board until the bases of the wings are just level
    with the top of the two side pieces.
  • Slip a paper strip between the wings (if they are
    upright) and use it to force the wings on one
    side down into position.
  • Pin the ends of the paper down to hold the wings
    loosely in place.
  • Repeat this with the wings on the other side.

16
  • Take another insect pin or needle and slip the
    point through the leading edge of the right
    forewing (there is a strong vein just at the
    front edge of each wing) near its attachment to
    the thorax.
  • Loosen the forward end of the paper strip and
    gradually bring the forewing up into final
    position.
  • Pin the wing down with a paper strip.
  • Repeat this procedure with the forewing on the
    other side.
  • Using the same technique, bring both hind wings
    into proper position and fasten all four wings
    firmly with the paper strips.
  • Position antennae with pins and if the abdomen
    has drooped, prop it up with pins so that it
    dries in a natural position.
  • Allow specimens to dry for several days before
    you remove the pins.
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