Weeds Water and Wool

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Weeds Water and Wool

• A Day to Dye For
• Kathy Wildman Grafton WV
• kattwild_at_msn.com

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Fibers

• Animal protein - sheep, alpaca, camel, angora
  rabbit, cashmere goat, silk worms etc
• Vegetable cellulose - cotton, hemp, ramie,
  flax, abaca, paper, kapoc, papyrus etc
• Mineral polyester, nylon, asbestos, fiberglass,
  angelhair etc

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Natural Dyes

• Animal - cochineal, lac, mollusc
• Vegetable dyes can be extracted from all plant
  parts in various plants in all taxonomic
  categories from mushrooms to flowering plants
• Mineral ochre cave paintings, clays, ores,
  picric acid, Saxon Blue
• Synthetic Dyes - coal tars WH Perkin 1856
  mauvine searching for synthetic quinnine

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Plant Pigments

• Carotenoids fat soluble - yellow and orange
  colors and some red colors
• Flavonoids - red through blue colors
• Lycopene tomatoes, Xanthophyll red chilies
• Anthocyanines - Water soluble red, purple,
  blue may change color red in acid blue in base
  pH indicator - hydrangeas

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Fall Color - Fruit Ripening

• Chlorophyll breaks down, leaving the carotenoids.
• Chloroplasts (green plastids) gradually
  transform into chromoplasts (colored plastids)?
• Fruit/Leaf changes from green to yellow or red.

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Substantive or Direct Dyes

• Become chemically fixed to the fiber without the
  aid of any other chemicals or additives, such as
  indigo or certain lichens.

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Adjective Dyes or Mordant Dyes

• Require some sort of substance, (usually a metal
  salt) to prevent the color from washing or
  light-bleaching out.
• Metal ions from the salt form strong bonds with
  the fiber and also with the dye, thereby holding
  the dye to the fiber.

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No mordant no knot Alum mordant 1 knot
Copper mordant 2 knots Iron mordant 3 knots
Tin mordant 4 knots
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Mineral Mordants protein fibers

• Alum with cream or tartar
• Iron salts
• Copper
• Tin
• Chrome
• Dye container can affect color.

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Plant Mordants cellulose fibers

• Some plants have a natural ability to extract
  such minerals from the earth, such as club moss.
• Tannins oak galls
• washing soda creates an alkaline dyebath

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Chemistry

• Indigo oxidation reduction reaction

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• Mordant effects
• Litmus test reagents
• Astrobrite goldenrod paper
• Hydrangea is affected by soil ammendments and
  can turn from pink to blue depending on Aluminum
  uptake governed by the soi pH

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Beet Juice Indicator
http//www.cchem.berkeley.edu/demolab/demo_txt/Cab
bIndic.htm
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Geography

• Logwood, cochineal and indigo inspired geographic
  exploration and supported colonial empires.
• Dyes were worth their weight in gold silk
  road trading routes.
• Colonial empires created wealth with extractive
  commodities.

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Anthropology

• Dyes have been used in ritual and decoration from
  prehistory
• Costumes, body painting, and tatoos

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• Everyday fabrics, clothing, furniture, decorative
  elements for the home and even the house yurts
  and tee-pees

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History

• Dyes have both "gone to" and inspired wars while
  tie-dye clothed a peace movement.
• Military uniforms identify friend from foe.
• War paints and tatoos inspire ferocity, fidelity
  and commitment.

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• Dyes were commoditized and guilds restricted
  introductions Woad wars.
• Fibers too inspired wars with wool financing
  England's 100 year War with France
• Cotton economics drove the American Civil War.

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Social Studies

• Local plants yellow greens and brown
• Reds, blues and purples - rarer, expensive or
  imported
• Sumptuary Laws restricted use of royal colors
• Color based class system
• Colonialism sources of dyes

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Math

• In addition to the math used to lay out a garden,
  there is lots of measuring and weighing involved
  in dyes

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English Language Arts

• Eliza Lucas Pinckney introduced indigo crop in
  SC 1740 strong and successful woman Pres
  George Washington asked and accedpted to be a
  pallbearer
• http//www1.umn.edu/ships/modules/scimath/roleplay
  .htm

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Current Events

• Face Painting, hair dyes and tatoos
• Environmental issues dye discharges land use
  issues. Pesticides vs organic cotton
• Pumice mining for stone washed jeans
• Weed laws for non native invasive plants
• Natural food coloring hyperactivity concerns
  red dye 2 vegan, religious and ick issues
• The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy -
  Pietra Rivoli - history, economics and politics

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Preparing a Dye Bath

• Use 4 parts fresh plant matter to 1 part wool by
  weight.
• Break down plant parts to expose maximum surface
  area (chop as finely as practical) and simmer for
  one hour (roots or other hard parts may need to
  sit overnight).
• Strain out plant debris thru cloth and add enough
  water to accomodate wool without crowding.

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• The mordants create binding sites on the wool
  fibers to which molecules of dye chemicals lock
  on permanently.
• In a diluted dye bath these molecules can still
  be matched to the sites.
• If a second batch of wool is dyed there will be
  fewer dye molecules available for binding (since
  most were removed in the first wool skeins) and
  the color will be paler.
• Leftover dye water might be used with pulp to
  make colored paper
  

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Safety Precautions

• Many woods can cause contact dermatitis if
  handled without gloves.
• Wear a dust mask and safety goggles with all
  concentrated dyes.
• Keep powdered dyewoods and concentrates away from
  children and pets.
• Dye Utensils marked and separate from food
  containers and cooking areas
• Dispose fluids in black lines or away from water

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Kitchen Dyes

• RED beet root, cherries, or red cabbage
• YELLOW onion skins
• GREEN spinach
• BROWN iodine, coffee, or tea
• BLUE dissolve a teaspoon of flour in about half
  a cup of water and add a drop or two of iodine
• PURPLE blackberries

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Fiber Projects

• Yarn can used for friendship bracelets with
  weaving techniques common in Japan and South
  America.
• Make God's eyes for a Southwest study.
• A simple cardboard loom can make a small bag,
  coin purse or pillow.

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Felting Projects

• Buy a fleece on the hoof and have it delivered
  and sheared on site. Scour fleece to remove
  lanolin and foreign matter.
• Invite a spinner to demonstrate and bring
  equipment.
• Try carding and drop spindles.
• Use fleece to make a felted potholder or ball
• Purchase carded wool to dye for felting.

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Dye Sources

• http//www.prairiefibers.com/
• http//www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1893-AA.shtm
  l?lnavdyes.html
• http//www.earthguild.com/products/dyes/dyenat.htm
  
• http//www.griffindyeworks.com/store/index.php?mai
  n_pageindexcPath1_4
• http//www.hillcreekfiberstudio.com/HFS-Shop/en-us
  /dept_13.html
• http//www.the-mannings.com/mannings_catalog.cgi?d
  ctonfirst_record_on_page0total_matching_rows1
  1tabcatalogtt106cmadctsession_id11de854850
  records_per_page10
• http//www.woolery.com/Pages/dyes.htmldyeseeds
• http//www.sinopia.com/index.asp?PageActionVIEWCA
  TSCategory2
• http//www.stevespanglerscience.com/product/1552