Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

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Created by University of Minnesota Extension
Master Gardener-Anoka CountyEva Knudsen

• Growing Berries in Minnesota

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Proper Site Selection
• For the plant
• Full sun
• Protection from wind
• On a slope?
• Good soil drainage
• What was growing there before?
• What is growing around area?
• For you, the gardener
• Close to a water source
• easy access

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Proper Site Preparation
• Do a soil test
• Obtain proper pH
• Add soil nutrients according to test results
• Make sure area is weed free
• Plant certified disease-free plants

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Proper Watering
• Avoid overhead watering
• Put soaker hose in place before planting under
  mulch

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Good Air Circulation
• Good air flow decreases the chance of diseases
  and insects
• Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases
  air flow
• Keeping areas weed free increase air flow

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Good Sanitation
• Many diseases and insects harbor in plant
  material and debris
• Prune out diseased or injured plants
• Remove over ripe fruit as often and quickly as
  possible

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The Six Most Important Things to Remember

• Mulch
• Covers diseases that can overwinter in the soil
  or debris on the ground
• Holds soil moisture
• Helps keep soil at a constant temperature

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Why Blueberries?
'North Sky' blueberry, photo by David Hansen
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Soil for Blueberries

• Soil pH is the most limiting factor
• Optimum pH is 4.0-5.0 (have a soil test)
• Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be modified by mixing
  4-6 inches of acid peat into the upper 6-8 inches
  of soil
• Elemental sulfur can be added to acidify the soil
  but requires at least 1 yr. for the pH to adjust.

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Planting a Blueberry Bush

• Planting too deep or not deep enough may cause
  root damage
• Set plants at the same depth they were in the
  container for the best results.
• Mulch

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Fertilization and Cultivation of Blueberries

• Do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches
• Mulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet around each
  bush
• For new plants apply nitrogen as a sidedressing
  when the second flush of growth starts
• For older plants apply nitrogen in the spring
• Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a split
  nitrogen application half in the spring and the
  other half at petal fall
• Do not fertilize after July

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Pruning Blueberries

• Prune off flower buds and weak, spindly growth on
  new plants for the first 2 yrs after planting
• Prune mature plants in late winter (before buds
  swell) cutting out diseased and dead wood,
  branches 5 yrs. or older each year
• Pruning cuts should be made at ground level or to
  a low growing lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new
  braches to develop each year

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Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for
Minnesota

Cultivar Yield potential Hardiness Berry size Flavor Firmness Plant size Season
Chippewa High Excellent Med-large Sweet Good 4.5 x 4 Mid
Northblue High Excellent Large Tart Fair 3 x 4 Mid
Polaris Med-High Very good Med Sweet, aromatic Exc 4 x 4 Early
Northland High Very good Med Mild Good 4 x 4 Mid
St. Cloud Med - High Very good Med Sweet Good 5 x 4 Early
Northcountry Med Very good Small Lowbush - mild Poor 2.5 x 4 Early
Northsky Low Very good Small Lowbush - sweet Poor 2 x 3
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Harvesting Blueberries

• Harvest season is 2-5 weeks
• The underside of the berry will turn from pink to
  blue when fully ripe
• Pick only fully ripe blue berries
• Pick only when dry and keep handling to a minimum
• Cool berries promptly and store at temps between
  32-40 degrees F.

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Winter Protection

• Winter injury can occur at -25 degrees F. if the
  plant is not protected
• Blueberries are susceptible to sunscald injury in
  late winter
• If snow cover is less than 12 inches, other
  protection is needed

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Pest Management for Blueberries

• Blueberries can successfully be grown without
  pesticides
• Good sanitation and air circulation thru proper
  pruning is most important
• The most important thing to avoid pest problems
  starts with proper site selection and preparation

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Strawberries
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Strawberries Varieties

• Junebearing strawberries produce fruit from early
  June through late July and are generally
  overwintered
• Junebearing plants set flower buds in the fall of
  the year prior to fruiting when the day is
  relatively short, about 12 hours

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Strawberries Varieties

• Everbearing strawberries produce two to three
  harvests of fruit intermittently during the
  spring, summer and fall and do not send out many
  runners.
• Day Neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout
  the growing season. These strawberries also
  produce few runners.

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Planting Strawberries

• A well-drained loam or sandy loam soil is best to
  maintain plant vigor and reduce disease problems.
  
• Strawberries require full sunlight
• Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with pH
  5.3-6.5

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Growing Junebearing Strawberries

• The main planting system used for Junebearing
  cultivars is the matted row
• Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced
  3 to 4 feet apart
• Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½
  feet wide. This system allows for easier weed
  control, easier harvest, less fruit rot, and
  fewer foliage diseases than other systems.

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Growing Day-Neutral Strawberries

• Plant day-neutral cultivars in the same way, or
  on a 6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed
  provides higher spring soil temperatures and
  better drainage, allowing faster establishment
  and earlier cropping.

Photo creditDave Hansen
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Fertilizing Strawberries

• Before planting have a soil test done
• Fertilize early each spring before the plants
  produce flowers.
• For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread
  another fertilizer application after they have
  finished producing fruit for the season. (During
  restoration is the best)
• DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or
  fruit production as your berries will be softer,
  of poorer quality, and will not keep well.

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Renovating June-Bearing Strawberries

• After harvest is completed mow off the foliage
  using a standard lawnmower, taking care not to
  damage the crowns of the plants
• After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows so they
  are only half their original width
• Thru renovating, June-bearing strawberries should
  be completely replaced every 3-5 years for
  maximum productivity.

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Everbearing Strawberries

• Runners are normally removed as they appear,
  especially if the "hill" system is used.
• For maximum productivity, replace the planting
  every three years.
• Day-neutral strawberries should also be replaced
  every 3 years.

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Strawberries Covered and Uncovered

• Winter mulch protects strawberry buds from
  freezing and should be left on as late as
  possible in spring to keep plants from coming out
  of dormancy and growing too early,
• One sign that the cover should be removed
  immediately is if the strawberry leaves begin to
  turn yellow. Even then you can leave a light
  mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs
  quite early in the season. This provides some
  protection from cold temperatures.
• When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the
  rows of plants. That way it will be relatively
  easy to cover them again if another hard frost is
  predicted.

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STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD

• Occurs
  frequently
• Photo by Plant Disease Clinic

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STRAWBERRY     LEAF SPOT / SCORCH

• .

Photo by Chad Behrendt
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Most Common Insect Pests of
Strawberries
Tarnished Plant Bugs
Picnic Beetles
Slugs
Strawberry Root Weevil
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Tarnished Plant Bug Damage
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Raspberries
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Raspberries

• The main types which can be grown in the home
  garden are red, yellow, black, and purple.
• Raspberries can be grown successfully in most
  areas of Minnesota.
• Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but
  canes live for only two summers.
• Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties.
  During the first year, the new canes grow
  vegetatively. The canes overwinter and during the
  second growing season the second year canes
  produces fruit and then die.

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Where Should You Plant Raspberries

• Grow raspberries in an area that has good air
  circulation, water drainage and full sunlight.
• Protect plants from windy sites as wind can
  induce excessive drying and cane injury.
• Any well-drained soil is satisfactory for growing
  raspberries. Additional water will be needed on a
  sandy soil.

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Training Raspberries

• All raspberries benefit from some type of support
  system
• The simplest trellis system uses single or double
  wires or twine. Place posts about every 10 to 12
  feet. Place the canes between the wires and tie
  them loosely to the wire. The wires can be tied
  every 2 feet to prevent spreading.

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Pruning Summer-bearing Red and Yellow Raspberries

• Cut and dispose of all canes immediately after
  they bear fruit. (during dry weather)
• At this time you should thin out new shoots so
  only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain
  per foot of row.
• In the spring the fruiting canes should be cut
  back slightly. Never cut back more than
  one-fourth (25) the total height of the cane.

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Pruning Fall-bearing Raspberries

• For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base
  before growth begins in spring.
• Fall-bearing raspberries (also called
  Ever-bearing) are able to initiate flowers during
  the first year. During the second year, they can
  produce a summer crop on the same canes
• For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as
  described for summer-bearing raspberries. The
  canes that produced the fall crop should not be
  removed as they will produce fruit the following
  summer. Prune them back in spring to the last
  visible node that had fruit.

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Pruning Black and Purple Raspberries

• Black and most purple raspberries produce new
  canes only from the buds at the base of the year
  old canes. These clumps or "hills" remain in the
  original planting location.
• When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in
  height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce
  branching
• After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit
  to ground level
• Before growth begins the following spring, cut
  back all side branches to 12 - 18 inches. Select
  4 to 5 canes per hill and prune out the rest. Tie
  these canes to the support system.

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Blackberries in Minnesota?

• Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably year
  after year in zone 4.
• The UofM is working in cooperation with the large
  blackberry breeding program at the University of
  Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year
  cane-fruiting blackberry, which means it fruits
  on the first year growth.
• They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials
  until they're confident in their results and
  certain the crowns won't die out.

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Stop the Spread of Raspberry Diseases

• Cultural practices can limit the spread of
  diseases
• Destroy wild or abandoned brambles near the
  garden
• After harvest, remove and destroy canes that have
  fruited, are diseased, or are weak
• Improve air circulation by proper thinning and
  pruning and by controlling weeds

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Viruses on Raspberry

• Raspberries are susceptible to a number of
  viruses but are hard to diagnose and can be
  easily confused with herbicide damage
• Consult an expert if you think your plants are
  infected

Photo F. D. McElroy
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Gooseberries

• Elderberries

'Redlake' currant Photo credit Dave Hansen
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METHODS OF PREPARATION
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Jams and Jellies

• Jams and jellies have a very high sugar content.
• The sugar binds with the liquid present making it
  difficult for microorganisms to grow.
• To prevent surface contamination after the
  product is made and thus possible yeast or mold
  growth, jams and jellies are either canned,
  frozen or refrigerated.

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Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWithout
Added Pectin

• Jams, conserves, and marmalades made without
  added pectin require longer cooking and have a
  slightly different flavor from those with added
  pectin. They also yield a less finished product.
• The product is done when the temperature reaches
  220 - 222 F.

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Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWith Added
Pectin

• Be sure to carefully follow the directions
  accompanying the pectin product. The order of
  combining ingredients depends on the type of
  pectin used.
• Successful preparation of pectin-added jams,
  marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate
  timing. Begin counting time when the mixture
  reaches a full rolling boil-one that cannot be
  stirred down.
• There is a third method for preparing jams it
  does not require cooking the fruit-this product
  must be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.

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• Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer
  recommended. An incomplete seal with paraffin and
  the absence of a heat treatment may result in
  mold growth and toxin production in the jelly.
  Persons continuing to use the paraffin, and no
  water bath method, should be aware of the
  potential health risk.

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• A research study conducted at the University of
  Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly
  for 5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the
  products. Those tested included ones made with
  liquid and powdered pectin, as well as
  traditional no-pectin-added ones. In addition,
  the heat processing gives a better seal, and
  destroys mold that may be present on the top
  surface of the product.

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Sugar

• Sugar helps in gel formation, contributes flavor
  to the jelly, and at the concentration of 55
  percent by weight, serves as a preservative.
• Corn syrup or honey can replace part of the sugar
  in jelly recipes. If too much honey or corn syrup
  is substituted, the flavor of the fruit may be
  lost or lessened.
• Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet) cannot be
  substituted for sugar in recipes that require
  heating

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Freezing Fruit

• Freezing, when properly done, is the method of
  food preservation which may potentially preserve
  the greatest quantity of nutrients
• FruitsMost frozen fruits maintain high quality
  for 8 to 12 months. Unsweetened fruits lose
  quality faster than those packed in sugar or
  sugar syrups.

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Drying or Dehydrating Fruit

• Drying removes most of the moisture from foods.
• Microorganisms cannot grow and enzyme action is
  slowed down.
• Dried foods should be stored in airtight
  containers to prevent moisture from rehydrating
  the products and allowing microbial growth.

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Questions?