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Cosmetics%20Break%20the%20Skin%20Barrier

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Title: 1 Author: HCF Last modified by: Dr. Hung Created Date: 1/13/2006 2:48:02 AM Document presentation format: Company – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Cosmetics%20Break%20the%20Skin%20Barrier


1
????
  • ????? ???

2
Cosmetics Break the Skin Barrier
  • The New York Times
  • January 8, 2005, Saturday
  • By CLAUDIA H. DEUTSCH

3
Enhancing Methods for TDD
  • Chemical enhancement
  • Permeation enhancers eg, terpene
  • Prodrugs
  • Physical enhancement
  • Electrical methods
  • Iontophoresis Electroporation
  • Mechanical methods
  • Sonophoresis, Microneedles, Laser

4
?? (dermis)
  • ??????,?90????,????????????????,?????,??,???,??,?
    ?,????,???????,??????????,????????
  • ??????0.3-3mm,???????,???????????18-40
  • ???????????
  • ?????????(?hyaluronic acid)????(?????)?????
  • ?????????70
  • More than 70 is type I collagen and 15 type III
    collagen (Lovell et al., 1987).
  • ?????????
  • ???????????,?????
  • ???, ???

5
??????????
  • ??????????????
  • ??????????????
  • ???????????
  • ????????????????

6
Skin aging
  • Skin aging is divided into 2 major effects
    categories
  • Intrinsic aging (????)
  • extrinsic aging (????)

7
Factors
  • Ultraviolet radiation (UVR)
  • Chemicals
  • Smoking
  • As UVR is the most significant of these factors,
    extrinsic aging has been termed photoaging.

8
Six Signs of Aging
  • Fine lines and wrinkles (?)
  • Blotches and age spots (?)
  • Poor skin texture (?)
  • Poor skin tone (?)
  • Increased dryness (?)
  • Visible pores (?)

9
Antiaging Cosmetics
  • Dr. Hung

10
??????????
  • ?????
  • ?????
  • ????????????

11
Sunscreens
  • Dr. Hung

12
???????
  • SPF
  • ?????????????,????UVB???
  • ????20????????,??SPF20?????,???400???????
  • PFA
  • ????UVA???,???????
  • PFA 24??UVA????
  • PFA 48??UVA????
  • PFAgt8??UVA?????
  • PA
  • ????UVA???,?????????????
  • PA PFA 24
  • PA PFA 48
  • PAPFAgt8
  • Waterproof??,???????,????????????80??
  • Water resistant??,???????,????????????40??,??????
    ??????
  • Sweat resistant??,?????????,?????????30??

13
????(Sunscreen Protectioin Factor-SPF)
  • ????(Sunscreen Protectioin Factor-SPF)
    ?????????????????????????????,??????10????????,??
    SPF15???????150???????
  • SPF 15???????93.3?UVB
  • SPF 30????????96.67UVB
  • ??????????????????????(UVB)???
  • SPF????????????????????,???????UVA?????

14
?????????
  • ?? ??? ???

15
?????
  • Vitamin C
  • ?-Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate
  • Ubiquinones (Q10), Idebenone
  • ?-lipoic acid
  • Green tea extract
  • Genistein
  • ?-carotene
  • melatonin
  • Phenolic acid
  • SPD(?????Superphyco dismutase)
  • Melanin

16
CoQ (Q10)
  • Ubiquinone, CoQ10 (ubiquinol in the reduced form)
    is a vitamin-based ingredient that possesses
    complex antioxidant properties.
  • 10-fold higher levels in the epidermis than the
    dermis
  • CoQ in ethanol results in penertration into the
    stratun corneum (20), and 2 into the dermis.
    (Biofactor 1999,9,371)
  • The expression of collagenase mRNA induced by UVA
    can be significantly reduced by pretreatment with
    Q10 (11 mM Q10 is as effective as 3 mM vitamin E.
  • It acts in synergy with vitamin E to protect cell
    membranes against oxidative stress.
  • Idebenone, a synthetic variant of CoQ10 was
    appears to share similar benefits as CoQ10.

17
Retinoids?????????
  • (1)?????
  • (2)?????????????
  • (2)???????keratinocyte activity,?modifier???
  • (4)anti-inflammatory action?modifying
    glycoprotein synthesis??????,?????????
  • (5)decrease collagenase activity,???collagen???,??
    ?????

18
Retinoids in cosmetics
  • vitamin A alcohol (retinol)
  • vitamin A esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl
    acetate)
  • vitamin A aldehyde (retinal)
  • tretinoin (retinoic acid)

19
?????????A??????
  • ??A???1?A????????A,???????
  • ???A???????????????????????
  • ????????????????????????

20
?????? ??????
  • Dr. Hung

21
????(???)????
  • ?????
  • ???????????????
  • ?????????? (NO, CGRP)
  • ??????? (?????????? )
  • ???????????????????(melanin transfer blocker,
    MTB)
  • ???????????

22
Hydroquinone (HQ)(????)
  • ?????
  • ???SKII
  • ???????
  • ???????,?????????????
  • ????1.??semiquinone????,?????????????????
    2.??????????
  • ??25????????????
  • ???????????????????
  • ???,????????????????
  • ??????????????,??????????????

23
?????????
  • A?,???,????
  • ?????
  • ???
  • ?????
  • ?3???,?????????
  • 45??????

24
?????????????
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate(MAP,???C??????)
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate(???C????)
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside(???C??)
  • Kojic Acid(??)
  • Arbutin(????)
  • Ellagic Acid(???)
  • Chamomile ET(???)
  • Tranexamic acid( ???,???)
  • ????
  • ???? 7
  • ???C??????,???C???? 3
  • ??? C ????? 2
  • ??? 5
  • ???0.5
  • ?????????,????????,????
  • ?Tranexamic acid (2.03.0)????????????
    ,????????????????

25
Vitamin B3 (Niacin) ??? ??????????????
  • Niacinamide or nicotinamide
  • Increases the production by keratinocytes of
    ceramides
  • Improve barrier function and decrease
    transepidermal water loss
  • Clinical rosacea, acne and psoriasis
  • Suppression of melanosome transfer (BJD 2002
    14720-31)

26
???????????
  • Azelaic acid
  • AHA, BHA
  • Urea

27
?????????? (NO, CGRP) ???????
  • ????????????,????????????????

28
Skin damage side effects from skin lightening
treatments
Skin whitening agent
Skin surface
Malanin layer
Lower skin surface
Increased MMP activity
29
?????
  • Dr.Hung

30
????
  • ??
  • ????
  • ?????

???
31
??????
  • ????????
  • ??????(????????????)
  • The major lipids found in the SC
  • ?????

32
Moisturizers
  • Moisturizers are defined as chemicals that
    increase the water content of the stratum corneum
    and are hydrating agents.
  • Moisturizers work by using ingredients that are
    occlusive (???) and/or humectant (???) agents.
  • These ingredients are the same or similar to
    natural components in the skin (biomimetic).

33
Humectant agents ???
  • ??(Glycerol)??????????????????,????????????,?????
    ?,???????????
  • ?????(Hyaluronic ACID)?????,????????????????,????
    ??????????????,???????????????????,???????,???????
  • ????(Collagens)????????,???????????????????,?????
    ??,????????????????????
  • ??(Urea)???????????,????????,??????????
  • ????(Silk protein)??????????????,??????,????????
  • ??(Aloe)??????,????????,??????????,??????????
  • ?????(Seaweed extract)???????????,???????????????
  • ??(Lactic acid)???(Glycolic acid)AHA?????????????
    ???????
  • ???(Lactobionic acid)?????(Gluconolactone)PHA

34
Silk protein????
  • ??????????
  • ?fibroin?sericin???
  • Fibroin????????amino acid??,?????????
  • Sericin????????amino acid??,????????,??fibroin??,?
    ????????
  • ???????????,???control release?????
  • ???????

35
????????
  • (??)????
  • Vitamin B5
  • ???B5 (panthenol)??????????,??????????????????,???
    ???????????????????,????????,?????????
  • Amino acid

36
???(occlusives)
  • ?????????(non-physiological lipids)??????(physiolo
    gical lipids)
  • ????????????????, ??????????????(TEWL),???????????
    ??????????(petrolatum)
  • ?????-?????(cholesterol),????(ceramides),
    ?????(free fatty acid),?????????,????????ceramide?
    ?????????,???????????(proliferation)???(differenti
    ation)?????????(signal transduction)??????
  • ??????-??petrolatum, paraffin, dimethicone,
    soybean oil, grapseed oil, lanolin, beewax, olive
    oil, propylene glycol?,??????????????????,????????
    ,??????(??TEWL)????????????,????????,?????????????
    ?????

37
???????
  • ???A?E???????????????????,????????,???????????????
    ???????
  • ????(Ceramide)
  • ?????(Wheat germ oil),???(Avocado
    oil),??????(Macadamia nut oil),????(Evening
    primrose oil),???(Apricot kernel oil),????(Borage
    oil),???(Sunflower oil)
  • ????(Rose hip oil),????(Grape seed
    oil),???(Hazel nut oil),???(Kalaya
    oil),????(Pistachio nut oil)

38
??????????????
  • Chi-Feng Hung

39
??????????????
  • ??????????,??????????????(TEWL)
  • ?????????????????????????????????(colorimeter)????
    ???????????
  • ?? pH meter ????? pH value ???????????????????
  • Laser Doppler Flowmeter
  • ????????????????

40
????
  • ??CD 100, Yokogama Electrical Co., Japan.
  • ????
  • ????????????????CIE(Commission Internationale de
    lEclairage)??????????????,??????????L,a,b?
  • L???????????(L0)???(L100)
  • a????????R(a60)?????G(a-60)????
  • b????????Y(b60)?????B(b-60)?????,

41
???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ???? ????
???? 1 2 3 4 5 6
???? 1 2 3 4 5 6
???? ???? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???? ??? ?? ????
???? ???? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???? ??? ?? ????
???? ?? 0 15 5 25 10 35 15 50 15 65 60 99
???? ?? 0 15 5 25 10 35 15 50 15 65 60 99
42
pH value test
  • ?? Skin-pH-meter?905, Courage
    Khazaka, Germany

????pH ?????????,?????????????????,??????????????
???pH ?? 0 ? 1 4 ?????????? 7 ?????? pH ??????? 5
. 5 ? 6 . 5 ???
43
pH? lt3.5 3.8 4 4.3 4.5 5 5.3 5.5 5.7 5.9 6.2 6.5 gt6.5
?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
44
????????
  • ??????
  • (l)?????
  • (2)??????(???????)
  • (3)?????????

45
????????????
  • ??Eclipse 4000,Nikon,Tokyo,Japan
  • ???? solution or gel ??????????????????????
  • ???????????
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