Welcome to apparel guide This is a tech details for new comers ( junior merchandiser )

1
Welcome to apparel guideThis is a tech details
for new comers ( junior merchandiser )

• This Presentation is a basic information on
• Yarn gets converted to a garment.
• By prinuti.com

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Index

• Activities involved in making a garment
• Types of yarn
• Yarn Counts
• Grey yarn
• Dyed yarn
• Styles ( Different patterns )
• Types of fabric
• Fabric structure Technical details
• Fabric structure Technical details
• Fabric knitting
• Greigh fabric inspection machine
• Mercerizing machine
• Dying machine
• Open width Slitter and tubular squeeze machine

1. Stenter Finishing machine
2. Compacting machine
3. Testing Laboratory
4. Cutting department
5. Production department
6. Embroidery department
7. Printing department
8. Trimming and Checking department
9. Ironing and packing department
10. Product range
11. Garment Treatments
12. Garment quality checking method
13. Major Mistakes according to AQL Standard
14. Minor mistake according to AQL Level
15. Conclusion of a flow chart on apparel

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Activities involved in making a garment

• Yarn ( Thread in form of cones )
• Knitting ( Fabrication making fabric )
• Fabric Processing ( Dyeing coloring the fabric
  )
• Compacting ( Winding the fabric in roll forms )
• Sampling ( To get approval from customer )
• Cutting (shaping the garment )
• Printing or embroidery of logo in panel form
• Sewing ( stitching the garment as per customers
  requirement )
• Checking ( Trimming mending with quality
  inspection)
• Ironing packing
• Final inspection ( from quality control division
  )
• Goods ready to deliver.

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Types of Yarn
Greigh yarn
Lurex yarn
Spandex yarn
Dyed yarn

• .

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Yarn Counts
Lower yarn Counts will give thicker garment (
high GSM) When count number increases fabric
weight decreases. Quality output will look better
in higher counts. 20s count jersey 200
gsm 24s count jersey 180 gsm 30s count jersey
- 160 gsm 34s count jersey 140 gsm
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Grey Yarn
Grey yarn
Grey yarn is used for making any single color
garment (Solid Garment)
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Dyed Yarn

• Dyed yarns (color yarn) is used to make yarn
  dyed stripes.
• Feeder Striper
• Auto Striper
• Engineered Stripes
• Mini Jacquard
• Jacquard
• Wrapper

Continued..
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Styles
Round Neck V Neck Polo Neck Raglan sleeve Full
Zipper Half Zipper Hooded Jacket Cut
Sew Track Suite
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Types of Fabric and its structure
Single knit Knit fabric produced using a single
set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin
light weight fabric. Double knit Knit fabric
produced on two sets of opposed needles. It is
thicker and heavier than a single knit
fabric. Technical Face The outside of the tube
of fabric produced by a circular knitting
machine.This may or may not be the outside of a
finished garment made from the fabric. Technical
Back The inside of the tube of fabric produced
by a circular knitting machine. This may or may
not be the inside of a finished garment made from
the fabric.
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Fabric Structure

• Knit StitchAn interlocking series of loops used
  to construct fabric. See the diagram above of the
  basic weft knit fabric.
• Tuck StitchA needle receives a new yarn without
  losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the
  technical back of the fabric.
• Welt, Miss, or Float StitchThese terms describe
  the same formation. The stitch is created by not
  allowing the needle to raise high enough to
  receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float
  behind the face stitches.
• Inlay StitchCombination of float and tuck
  stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and
  one tucks. Commonly used in Fleece and French
  Terry fabrics.

Continued..
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Fabric Structure.

• Jersey Fabric The basic single knit
  construction (T- shirt fabric) with the
  appearance of tiny V s on the face of the
  fabric and wavy courses on the back of the
  fabric.
• Rib FabricThis double knit fabric draws some
  wales to the front and others to the back for a
  ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and
  recovery than most knits and they are used for
  trim and body goods.
• Interlock FabricTwo yarn feeds are required to
  create one course. The knitting on front and back
  gives interlock a smooth surface on each side of
  the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out
  for poor boy looks.
• Lacoste FabricThe original stitch configuration
  used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern
  creates a tiny honeycomb look on the technical
  back of the fabric, which is used as the face for
  garments.
• Pique FabricThe combination of knit and tuck
  stitches gives a small diamond appearance to the
  face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric
  used in collar/placket shirts.

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Fabric Knitting

• Full Jacquard
• Mini Jacquard
• Auto / Feeder Stripes
• Plaited Fabric
• Interlock
• Textures
• Jersey / Pique
• Waffle / Ribs

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Fabric inspection
Grey fabric Inspection machine.
Fabric checked before dying
Checked rolls ready for dying
Dyed rolls ready for cutting
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Fabric Mercerizing machine
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Soft flow dyeing machines
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Open width Slitter Tubular Squeeze machines
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Stenter Finishing machine
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Open width Compacting machine
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Testing Laboratory

• C/F to Washing
• C/F to Perspiration
• C/F to Water
• Dimensional stability
• Pilling
• Spirality
• Rubbing
• Fiber testing

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Cutting section
LAY CUTTING Any solid ( Plain fabric ) fabric
can be used in this method for higher output and
quality with a band knife machine.
Band knife cutting machine used for more accuracy
mainly for yoke and small panels
.
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Production Line
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Embroidery

• Computerized embroidery machines ( 6 9 colors
  available )
• Average of 7001200 pcs out put in 8 hours time
  depending on the no of stitches

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Printing Section
Plastisol print Machine
Digital Printing Machine
Rotary print Machine
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Checking the quality and trimming process
Trimming and Quality Checking
Checking Mending
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Ironing and Packing Section
Ironing is usually made in steam Iron box with
vacuum table for Best quality
Price tag, poly bag cover and assorted packing
cartoon box packing is controlled by packing dept
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Product Range

• Mercerized / Non-mercerized Garments
• Garments in GIZA / PIMA / SUPIMA Cotton
• Performance based Garments like Dri-Fit, Anti-
  Stain, Anti-Microbial, Odor Free, UV protection,
  etc.
• Young Fashion garments like Cut Sew, Garment
  Dyed, Carbonized, Printed, Embroidered
• Organic Cotton Garments
• Garments made out of fabrics with various
  compositions.

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Garment Treatments

• Softener Wash
• Enzyme Wash
• Stone Wash
• Acid Wash
• Mineral Wash
• Crinkle Wash
• Garment Dyeing
• And much more ( more than 50 types of washes )
• For more details on the subject check in our web
  page www.prinuti.com

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Garment Quality Checking method
AQL - Accepted Quality level for inspection on
final garments ( 2.4 test method )No of
pcs sample to check Allowed defects Major
Minor 51- 90 12 1 1 91 150 20 1 2 151
280 32 2 3 281 500 50 3 5 501 -
1200 80 5 7 1201 3200 125 7 10 3201
10000 200 10 14 10001 35000 315 14 21 35001
150000 500 21 21 150001 500000 800 21 21
Continued..
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Major defects in garments

• Embroidery Misplacement
• Dirt / Stain
• Open seam
• needle mark
• Unbalanced Stitches
• Uneven width
• Puckering
• Hole
• Wrong size parts
• Unbalanced sleeve edge
• Unbalanced Placket
• Incorrect neck shape
• Missing stitches
• Unbalanced slit
• Uneven button space

• Missing Label
• Missing Tag
• Wrong placement of label
• Wrong Label
• Incorrect tag
• Incorrect Packing
• Wrong Assortment
• Missing Buttons
• Shade variation within a piece
• Yarn defect
• Knitting defect
• Defective Accessories
• Print Over lapping
• Print misplacement
• Defective Embroidery

Continued..
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Minor defects in garment

• Yarn defect
• knitting defect
• Embroidery misplacement
• Oil Stain
• Print stain
• Dirt stain
• Raw edges
• Broken stitch
• Skip stitch
• In secured buttons
• Poor ironing
• Improper locking ( stitches )
• Non centered label
• Double stitch
• Untrimmed Thread
• Untrimmed fabric

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Future presentation files

• Types of yarn
• Types of Knitting
• Types of fabric
• Classification of garments
• Performance garments
• AQL quality level and inspection method
• Merchandising Role
• Types of Printing
• Types of knitting ( and lot more )