Plant materials are being widely used in cosmetic products during the last 30 years. Some plants and materials of plant origin, acting as skin anti-aging with different mechanisms are among the primary cosmetic active agents studied. Almond oil was used

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COMPARISON OF COSMETIC W/O EMULSION SYSTEMS
CONTAINING ZIZYPHUS JUJUBA AND ERYTHRAEA
CENTAURIUM EXTRACT
Gülay BÜYÜKKÖROGLU, Sefa AVCIER, Yasemin YAZAN
Anadolu University, Faculty of Pharmacy,
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology 26470
Eskisehir- TURKEY
INTRODUCTION
Characterization and Stability of the w/o
Emulsion Systems
Macroscopic analysis Color, consistency,
appearance and homogeneity were
controlled. Determination of the emulsion
type External phase of the emulsion was
determined by dilution using both water and
oil. Globule size distribution Emulsion systems
were dispersed in almond oil and their globule
sizes were examined using particle size
analyzer. pH value measurement pH values of the
aqueous phases of all emulsions were measured
using a pH-meter. Microscopic analysis Following
dilution with almond oil, the emulsion systems
prepared were examined under 100X and 40X
magnification and their photographs were
taken. Centrifugation Freshly prepared and
24-hour old emulsions were centrifuged. Thermal
stability tests Freshly prepared w/o systems were
kept at 40C10C, room temperature (200C10C) and
400C10C, and investigated for possible phase
separation or visual microbial contamination.
Microbiological test Formulations incubated at
370C for seven days were inoculated in Eosin
Methylene Blue Agar and Saburaud Dextrose Agar
media and samples were taken at different
intervals. Rheological test Rheological tests
were performed at 200C0.10C using a rheometer
with cone-plate geometry. Dermatological
Studies 20 female volunteers, refrained from
using any moisturizer, sunscreen or liquid
make-up 1 week prior to study, were used. Each
product was applied to the cheeks and forearms
for the 24-hour measurements and to the entire
face twice a day for a 4-week study. Skin
moisture and sebum were measured for 24 hours
and facial (forehead and cheeks) pH, moisture,
sebum and elasticity were measured once a week,
for a duration of 4 weeks. The data obtained was
evaluated statistically using SPSS program on the
computer (5).

• Plant materials are being widely used in
  cosmetic products during the last 30 years. Some
  plants and materials of plant origin, acting as
  skin anti-aging with different mechanisms are
  among the primary cosmetic active agents studied.
  Almond oil was used as the oily external phase of
  the emulsions owing to its skin moisturizing,
  softening and non-irritant properties. Phenolic
  groups exhibit activity as radical scavengers
  and/or metal chelators (1) In this study, mixture
  of almond and silicon oils was used as the
  continuous phase and cethyl dimethicone copolyol
  was used as the lipophilic surfactant for the
  formation of a w/o emulsion system.
• 2 and 4 lyophilized extracts obtained from the
  leaves of E. Centaurium and Z. Jujuba were
  incorparated into the W/O emulsion system. Three
  different emulsion systems containing 2 and 4
  plant extracts and without containing the extract
  were prepared and their characteristics and
  efficacies were compared. One formulation was
  prepared without the incorporation of the
  extract, for comparison. All formulations
  prepared were of homogeneous cream consistency.
  Plant extract of Zizyphus jujuba was found to
  inhibit lipid preoxidation and to have free
  radical scavengering effect (2). Fresh Zizyphus
  jujuba contains primarily proanthocyanidines (3).
  Benefits of proanthocyanidines on dermatological
  signs of aging are presumably based on their
  antioxidant effects. Erythraea centaurium
  contains considerable amounts of polyphenolic
  compounds. By virtue of effectively scavenging
  deleterious radicals and suppressing radiation
  induced oxidative reactions, the phenolic
  compounda may serve an important antioxidant
  function in preserving the physiological
  integrity of cells, such as skin cells, exposed
  to both air and UV radiation (4).
• MATERIALS
• Almond oil (Detsan, Turkey)
• Zizyhus jujuba plant (Sivrihisar, Turkey)
• Erythraea centaurium plant (Balikesir, Turkey)
• Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90?)
• Silicone oil (Abil? 350) (Goldschmidt A.G.,
  Germany)
• Vitamin E (JohnsonJohnson, Turkey)
• Methyl paraben (Nipagin? M) (JohnsonJohnson,
  Turkey)
• EDTA (E.Merck, Germany)
• Magnesium sulfate (E.Merck, Germany)
• Sodium chloride (E.Merck, Germany)
• METHODS

EXPERIMENTAL
Results and Discussion
pH values of the formulations ZJ0, ZJ1 and ZJ2
were 5.3, 4.7 and 4.3, respectively, which are
appropriate for application to the skin. All the
emulsion formulations exhibited emulsion
characteristics in microscopic examination. Upon
centrifugation, no phase separation was observed
for the freshly-prepared and 24-hour old
emulsions. Considering the skin elasticity, skin
sebum content and skin moisture, EC2 and ZJ2
formulations were found to be effective. On the
contrary to the antioxidant and anti-aging
effects of Zizyphus jujuba and Erythraea
centaurium extracts (2,4), no significant data
could be obtained for the skin.
FORMULATION (ZJ0) (ZJ1) (ZJ2) (EC0) (EC1) (EC2)
Almond oil 23 23 23 22 22 22
Abil? EM90 4 4 4 2 2 2
Abil? 350 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Vitamin E 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
MgSO4 0.7 0.7 0.7 - - -
EDTA 0.15 0.15 0.15 - - -
NaCl - - - 0.6 0.6 0.6
Metyl paraben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
Plant extract - 2 4 - 2 4
Distilled water s.q. 100 s.q. 100 s.q. 100 s.q. 100 s.q. 100 s.q. 100
Conclusion
Stable emulsion formulations containing Zizyphus
jujuba and Erythraea centaurium extracts could be
prepared and were found to remain stable during
the storage time of 6 months under different
conditions. The aim of this study was the
enhancement in skin elasticity, skin sebum
content and skin moisture with Zizyphus jujuba
and Erythraea centaurium extracts. Data obtained
showed increase in different skin values, however
this increase was of no statistical
significance. In spite of the scientific fact
that Zizyphus jujuba and Erythraea centaurium
extracts both have antioxidant and anti-aging
effects, this fact could not be determined for
the formulaions obtained in this study. This may
be most probably due to the partial loss in the
active ingredients of Zizyphus jujuba and
Erythraea centaurium during the extraction
procedure.
References
Zizyphus jujuba Erythraea centaurium
Emulsion without the plant extract ZJ0 Emulsion without the plant extract EC0
Emulsion with 2 plant extract in the aqueous phase ZJ1 Emulsion with 2 plant extract in the aqueous phase EC1
Emulsion with 4 plant extract in the aqueous phase ZJ2 Emulsion with 2 plant extract in the aqueous phase EC2
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