Inorganic UV Filters for Balanced UV Protection in Color Cosmetics

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Inorganic UV Filters for Balanced UV Protection
in Color Cosmetics
David Schlossman
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Recent Sunscreen Regulations

• On September 22, 2006, EU Commission published
  recommendations on Sunscreen products and claims
  made related thereto
• Sunscreen products should protect against both
  UVA and UVB
• SPF minimum 6
• UVA 1/3 of SPF, Critical Wavelength gt 370 nm
• UVA protection testing Persistent pigment
  darkening method

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UV Filters for Balanced Protection
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Common UV Filters
For UVB protection
For UVA protection
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Organic UV Filter for Broad Spectrum Protection
Tinosorb M
Tinosorb S
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Extinction Ratios of TiO2
308 nm max erythemal effectiveness 360 nm Mid
of UVA 524 nm Blue end of visible light
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Influence of TiO2 Primary Particle Size (PPS)

Dispersions in cyclopentasiloxane
CM3K25VM CM3K40T4 FA45T CM3K40KQM FA65USI
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Transparency of TiO2 Dispersions

195 60 35 15 10 nm
195 60 35 15 10 nm
195 60 35 15 10 nm
195 60 35 15 10 nm
10nm TiO2 makes transparent dispersions for all
skin types
All dispersions diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane (to
20 TiO2)
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Extinction Ratios of ZnO

• ZnO has more uniform absorption through UVA and
  UVB
• Maximum extinction value is used

Ext. max. Ext. 524
UVA and UVB attenuation Transparency
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Particle Size vs. Absorption
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Inorganic UV Filters - In Vivo Results


Tests were performed by Consumer Product
Testing Co. - All testing on 3 people
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Color Cosmetics with UV Protection
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LOréal True Match
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Shiseido Sun Protection Liquid Foundation SPF42
PA
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Tarte Cover Up
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Bioderma Photoderm Max SPF 50
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Revlon Vital Radiance
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Currently Marketed Foundations (1)
In-Vitro Data prepared on Labsphere UV1000S
substrate for the sunscreens are Transpore tape.

Note PFA for LSS and NHS tested in vivo on 3
people
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Currently Marketed Foundations (2)
In-Vitro Data prepared on Labsphere UV1000S
Substrate for the sunscreens are Transpore tape.

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Currently Marketed Foundations (3)
RV TCU NHS Bd Sh LSS RCS LCN
Opacity 29.58 36.29 46.17 51.27 69.46 71.27 71.20
83.72 SPF 25 20 20 50 42 17 25 17
Drawdowns using 2 mils Bird film applicator on a
glass plate Opacity measurements 0.5 mil Bird
film applicator on Leneta 2A Opacity charts
(black and white card)
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Currently Marketed Foundations (4)
All products diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane (0.02
w/w) Spectrophotometer Hitachi U-3310 -
Integrating Sphere
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Metal Oxides for Balanced UV Protection
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UV Attenuation by Iron Oxides
Nano Pigmentary

• Transparent Iron oxides can boost UV protection

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Kobos Work on Liquid Foundation
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UV-Balance Powders

• UV-Balanced Powder 100 Combination of 10, 50,
  60 nm TiO2 for broad spectrum protection
• UV-Balanced Powder 100R UV-Balanced Powder 100
  and transparent red iron oxide
• UV-Balanced Powder 100Y UV-Balanced Powder 100
  and transparent yellow iron oxide

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UV-Balance Powders
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UV Balance Powder Foundation - KPP-014
UV Balance Powder 100 6 UV Balance Powder 100Y
6 UV Balance Powder 100R 6 ITT-treated Iron
Oxides 2.35 qs 100 In Vivo SPF 15 In Vivo
PA 6.4 TiO2 content 15.1
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Conclusions

• Balanced UV protection is now a requirement for
  color cosmetics with sunscreens
• TiO2 and ZnO of various sizes are available and
  the right grade needs to be selected for optimal
  attenuation and color
• TiO2 with a PPS of 50 nm provides balanced UV
  protection and strong efficacy
• Iron oxides increase UV balance