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When Change Coils


Plenty of tanks use their own, proprietary heating element, like the Innokin iClear 30b; which sports a unique bottom coil much larger and more durable than more common coils. – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: When Change Coils

When Change Coils
  • In the world of e-liquid vaporizers, every
    working rig has a heating element inside.
    Regardless of whether it is an atomizer,
    cartomizer, wick, or cotton-based rig, the
    heating element or coil will need to be replaced
    every so often.

  • In some of the cheaper and/or older tanks ( like
    the most common tank, the CE4 ), the heating
    element DOES NOT come out, meaning that the
    entire tank will need to be replaced every few
    weeks to two months.

  • Fear not! Those tanks are usually only a few
    dollars more than a replacement coil in a
    rebuildable tank!

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So, here's the word
  • If you have had your tank for a few weeks to a
    couple of months, and you are noticing a strange
    new metallic or burnt cotton flavor, and/or if
    you have noticed a steady decline in flavor
    and/or vapor production, even on a full tank,
    then you will need a new coil.

  • Plenty of tanks use their own, proprietary
    heating element, like the Innokin iClear 30b
    which sports a unique bottom coil much larger and
    more durable than more common coils. Still,
    most tanks on the market are very similar, and
    require the exact same coils.

  • For instance, the two most common coils on the
    market today are the Unitank coils used on most
    Kanger tanks ( plus a vast majority of
    third-party "bottom coil" tanks like the G-Tank
    and the Smoktech Tumblr ) and the Vivi Nova-style
    coil used in many wick-based tanks.

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  • There are a couple of caveats. In cases like the
    Protank 3 and the Aerotank, which are dual-coil
    tanks, the Kanger single-coil atomizers WILL NOT
    work EVEN THOUGH they look identical and do fit
    inside the tank. These tanks require the Kanger
    2.0 Ohm Dual-Coil atomizers to successfully fire. 

  • Further, the coils inside the T3S, Unitank, and
    Protank/mini Protank I and II will fire if
    interchanged ( they use the exact same design ),
    but don't always fit perfectly due to the size
    variations of the tanks and may leak.

  • While these tanks aren't the only exceptions, but
    don't let that worry you too much, because it's
    still not a very common problem.

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  • Lastly, coils may come in different resistances,
    denoted by Ohms ( O ). This may cause confusion
    for some who are new to the vape scene, and do
    not have any electrical background however, the
    concept is far from complicated.

  • Thicker or longer wires have a higher resistance
    and will not burn as hot as lower resistance
    coils which use a thinner or shorter wire. The
    higher the resistance, the longer the coil will

  • The lower the resistance, the hotter the coil
    will burn. When using any sort of
    variable-voltage or high-voltage power supply (
    usually a battery ), it is a good idea to use a
    higher resistance coil as lower resistance coils
    may burn out rather quickly. On the other side of
    the argument, a lower-resistance coil does not
    require as much power to reach the
    same temperature.

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  • In short, if you feel as though you aren't
    getting the delicious, fluffy clouds that you are
    used to getting, head on over to our shop and
    pick up some new coils. Just make sure that they
    are compatible with your tank, and that you grab
    the appropriate resistance for the type of vape
    you are looking for.

  • Just remember, lower resistance burns hotter at
    lower settings, but higher resistance can handle
    much more power ( and can get way hotter than a
    lower resistance coil without burning out, but at
    the sacrifice of battery life ).

  • To know details information, visit us

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