FASH 15 textiles

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FASH 15 textiles dyeing printing
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• dyeing printing
• color is one of the most significant factors in
  the appeal marketability of textile products
• manner in which color is added to a textile and
  the chemical nature of the colorant contribute to
  products
• appearance
• performance
• rate of response to fashion change
• quality
• cost

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• color theory
• complex phenomenon that combines
• the physics of light
• chemistry of colored objects
• biology of the eye
• behavioral sciencessocial cultural meaning of
  color
• aesthetics

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• colorantspigments
• insoluble color particles held on surface of a
  fabric by a binding agent
• application is quick, simple economical
• more than 80 of printed fabrics colored with
  pigments
• fewer sustainability issues compared to dyes
• lower color strengthuses more pigment
• washdown can be a problem (losing color)
• used on short-run prints such
• as university logos,
• professional sports teams,
• event t-shirts, etc

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• colorantsdyes
• complex organic compounds used to add color to
  materials by binding to them
• molecules dissolved in in water or some other
  carrier that allows them to penetrate the
  fiberstage added affects penetration
• chemical additives used to regulate penetration
• great color strength
• small amount of dye colors large quantities of
  fabric
• used in either solutions or pastes (used for
  printing)
• thermoplastic fibers difficult to dye

http//www.youtube.com/watch?vSBN3hDIz88Y
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• stages of dyeing
• fiber stage
• added to fibers before yarn spinningslightly
  irregular color (heathered or mottled)
• mass pigmentation (solution-dyed)adding colored
  pigments or dyes to spinning solution before
  fiber is formed
• stock or fiber dyeing is expensive

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• stages of dyeing
• yarn stage
• can be done with
• yarn in skeins skein dyeing
• yarns wrapped on cones or packages package
  dyeing
• yarn wound on beams beam dyeing
• yarn-dyed fabrics more expensive to produce
• larger inventories of yarn needed
• threading loom
• considered to be better quality fabrics

http//www.youtube.com/watch?v_wfagh_MZRwfeature
related
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participation activity yarn dyeing wool kapok
samples using the wool kapok samples created
in the yarn spinning activity from a previous
class, select a color of kool-aid dye to
experiment with put both samples in the same
color for comparison purposes leave in dye for
duration of class
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• stages of dyeing
• piece/fabric stage
• piece dyeing
• when bolt or roll of fabric dyed
• usually produces solid-color fabrics
• generally costs less to dye
• color decisions can be delayed
• cross dyeing
• piece dyeing of fabrics (sometimes yarns) made of
  different generic fibers
• each fiber type bonds with a different dye class
• union dyeing
• another type of piece dyeing that uses dyes
  suited to each fiber type, mixed to produce same
  hue

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• stages of dyeing
• product stage
• after fabric is cut sewn into finished product
• great care must be taken in handling materials
  dyeing to produce level, uniform color
• button, thread, trim may be different color
  because of differences in dye absorption
• important due to quick response to retail
  consumer demands

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• methods of dyeing
• batch dyeing
• AKA exhaust dyeingtextile circulated through dye
  bath, can be used in any stage of production
• beck (reel or winch) dyeing
• fabric (in loose rope) lifted in and out of dye
  bath by a reel
• jig dyeing
• uses stationary dye bath with two rolls above
  bathfabric carried around rolls rolled back
  and forth
• pad dyeing
• fabric run through dye bath in open width then
  between squeeze rollers to force dye into fabric
  with pressure

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methods of dyeing package dyeing dye bath
forced through textile during yarn stagewound on
core and placed on perforated spindle in
pressurized machine
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• methods of dyeing
• combination dyeing
• both textile dye bath are circulated
• jet dyeing
• similar to beck dyeingfabric processed as
  continuous loop
• paddle machines, rotary drums or tumblers
• used primarily for product dyeing
• continuous machines
• used for large fabric lotsinclude compartments
  for wetting-out, dyeing, after-treatment,
  washing, rinsing

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• methods of dyeing
• resist dyeing
• block color absorption during yarn or fabric
  dyeing
• batik
• generally hand process using hot wax applied to
  fabric in given design
• tie dye
• hand process in which areas of yarn or fabric are
  wrapped with thread or string
• ikat
• ancient form of resist in which yarn is tied,
  dyed wovenrequires great skill to determine
  placement of design in finished fabric

http//www.youtube.com/watch?vKkFc0JNsmO0
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• printing
• used to add color to localized areas only
• allows for greater design flexibility and
  relatively inexpensive patterned fabric
• wet prints use a thick, liquid paste
• dry prints use a powder
• foam prints use a colorant dispersed in foam

http//www.youtube.com/watch?v6iVicNDx-00feature
related
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• printing methods
• direct printing
• color is applied directly to fabric in pattern
  location desired in finished fabric
• block printing
• hand process oldest techniqueexpensive slow
• warp printing
• warp yarn printed before weaving

http//www.youtube.com/watch?vLZ4_0shRurE
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• printing methods
• discharge printing
• piece-dyed fabrics in which design is made by
  removing color from selected fabric areas
• usually done on dark backgrounds
• screen printing
• incredibly versatile, simple process
• separate mesh screens used for each color

http//www.youtube.com/watch?v91Y59-gSBi8NR1fe
aturefvwp
http//www.youtube.com/watch?vNQpmFFarsZAfeature
related
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• printing methods
• digital printing
• ink-jet printing
• heat-transfer printing
• design transferred to fabric from specially
  printed paper by heat pressure
• electrostatic printing
• prepared screen covered with powdered dye passes
  through electric field pulled onto material
• foil printing
• adhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat
  transfer press bonds to adhesive pattern
• stencil printing
• separate pattern cut for each color, color is
  applied in thick paste or sprayed on with air gun

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• participation activity
• yarn dyeing wool kapok samples
• remove your yarn samples from the dyeplease be
  careful not to spill or dribble dye, clean up
  after yourself
• rinse and wring out yarn samples well
• compare the two samples and answer the following
  questions
• how well did the wool take the dye?
• how well did the kapok take the dye?
• what differences between the two samples are
  readily identifiable?
• which one do you like better?
• anything else you would like to add?
• lay out samples to dry in resource roomI will
  collect grade them later