Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe

1
Potential and limits of natural dyes production
in Europe

• André FALISSE Corina SCUBLI
• Crop Production Dpt
• Gembloux Agricultural University

2
Historical

• Since pre-historical times
• Research for colour for
• skin,
• Wear leather, textiles,
• Buildings and objects paints
• Crafts and arts,
• Printing,
• Food,
• Distinctive labelling (seed dressing, )

3
Historical (2)

• Until 1890, all available dyes (pigments and
  tannins) were from  "natural" (i.e. mineral,
  animal, microbial or vegetal) origin, simply
  processed by chemical, biological or physical
  processes
• Production from nature or from agriculture
• Problems from agriculture, large areas were
  needed to satisfy world demand
• Problems between old and new regions of
  production substitution problems economical
  competition,
• Problems from "nature" overexploitation of
  species and empoverishiment of biodiversity,
• Raw material and End-products variable in
  quality, limited in quality,
• Problems from preparation processes pollution
  (air, water, soils, )

4
Historical (3)

• From the end of 19th Cent. progressively
  replaced by artificial (synthetic) dyes
• Advantages diversity of colours, regulated
  (mastered) quality, reproductibility,
• Problems
• Chemical toxic or dangereous reagants or
  intermediary products,
• Environmental Pollution -gt industrial sewage
  stations,
• Alimentary uses ??
• Recently new attraction for "natural" products

5
Vegetal dyes Diversity

• Botanical diversity
• Perennials vs annuals
• Lignous vs herbaceous
• Several families or genius  specialised  in
  dyes and tanins
• Ecological diversity
• Tropical vs temperate
• in Europe mediteranean vs oceanic vs northern vs
  continental
• Soil acidity, texture, structure, O.M.,
• Exploitation diversity
• "On the wild" vs "cultivated"
• Family /Genius vs species/varieties
• Domestication
• Diversity of "technological" processes
• post-harvest treatments
• Dyestuffs preparation and uses

6
Diversity of current uses potential markets
(nature and dimensions) for vegetable dyes

• Textiles growing demand for "fashion" wear,
  domestic textiles (housing), in relation with
  "organic agriculture" and "ecological way of
  living"
• Paints, varnishes, ?? dependance on political
  rules, laws, ??
• Arts and crafts pigments, colours, unpredictive
  and "non reasonable" evolution
• Inks demand and offer exist, demand could
  increase
• Edible dyes and related (medicinal,
  cosmetics,health and body cares,) demand and
  offer existcurrent offer lt growing demand

7
Europe and Natural Dyes(1)

•  On the wild  and  carefully cultivated 
  dyesstuffs a lot of constraints
• Ecological constraints
• Agro- technical constraints
• Socio- Economical constraints

8
Europe and Natural Dyes (2)

•  On the wild  and  carefully cultivated 
  dyesstuffs
• Ecological constraints
• Climate Northern Europe and Southern
  (meditterranean) Europe
• Microclimate local, shelters, greenhouses,
  plasticulture,
• Soils and mineral requirements
• picked from the wild biodiversity ?
• Agro- technical constraints
• Socio- Economical constraints

9
Europe and Natural Dyes (3)

•  On the wild  and  carefully cultivated 
  dyesstuffs
• Ecological constraints
• Agro- technical constraints
• Agricultural systems
• Farm organisation work forces, Equipment, ..
• Crop improvement genetical (breeding) and
  technical (ripening, harvesting, ) including
  weed control, place in the crop sequence,
• Industrial infrastructure light or heavy
• Socio- Economical constraints

10
Europe and Natural Dyes (4)

•  On the wild  and  carefully cultivated 
  dyesstuffs
• Ecological constraints
• Agro- technical constraints need for breeding,
  domestication, mechanisation,
• Socio- Economical constraints
• Market demand and tender, fashion effect,
  health,
• Environmental pollution by dyesstuffs
  preparation processes,
• Crop acceptability competition with other crops
  for other uses, global equity,

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Europe and Natural Dyes (5)a proposal

• As a non specialist a spreadsheet on Excell,
• ?

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Proposal for "plant listing", chemicals listing
and references
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Proposal for "Tinctoria", a dyeplants and
dyechemicals listing ----------------------------
-------------- 1 file "Tinctoria" 3
listings as "folders" Plants (120), Chemicals
(40), References (7) all that needs to be
completed, improved, too lazy and ignorant -gt
call for any help the file is available at "
www.fsagx.ac.be/pt" (fac. sc. agronomiques,
gembloux)
14

• If
• "Colour is Life",
• could it be that
• "Natural Colour is Natural Life " ?
• Up to you, !!
• Thanks
• A reflexion heard in the conference room
• "This diapo-show acutely lacks colours"