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Diapositive 1

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Title: Diapositive 1


1
Perfume Notebook Autumn-Winter 2004
2
Introduction
  • The launches this season have a quality feel,
    they have dressed themselves in beautiful raw
    materials, opulent backgrounds, dark reds,
    profound purples and precious metals. Typical
    examples of these luxury perfumes are Visit for
    Woman, Cinema, Apparition, Prada, lInstant pour
    Homme or Issey Miyakes lEau Bleue pour Homme.
  • Many of last years launches have found their
    better half Visit, Pure, Burberry Brit,
    Magnetism, lInstant, Echo. This gives
    consistency to the launches and slows down the
    one-shot effect.
  • Glamour Lolitas (Envy, Britney Spears, Touch of
    Pink.) continue to provide inspiration to
    certain brands and constitute an interesting
    target.
  • In terms of marketing, the recent launches tend
    to create their own concepts rather than use the
    brand or another successful fragrance as a
    reference.

3
Introduction
  • Classic glamour and femininity can be found in
    such launches as Cinéma, Infiniment, Prada, and
    Apparition among others reminding us to treat
    ourselves well.
  • Playing to our sense of romance, we can find the
    man of our dreams in LInstant de Guerlain Pour
    Homme or Magnetism for Men, while playing the
    role of seductress ourselves (Envy Me, Pure
    Poison, Femme Individuelle).
  • Transcending space and time, we can escape the
    everyday by going Beyond Paradise to Be Delicious
    in the Big Apple, dine in Little Italy or fall in
    Love in Paris then jet off to London by Paul
    Smith. We may even sniff out our perfect mate
    (Burberry Brit for Men, Incanto Pour Homme, Visit
    for Women).
  • As we continue on our journey we are surrounded
    by the rich red, brilliant pink and deep blue
    hues of the flacons that house these enchanting
    creations, making us realise that the opulence
    and luxury of fragrance has returned.

4
Autumn - Winter 2004 Launches
Womens Fragrances Apparition Emanuel
Ungaro Armani Mania Armani Be Delicious
DKNY Blush Marc Jacobs Cinema YSL Echo Woman
Davidoff Envy Me Gucci Infiniment
Chopard Iris Nobile Acqua di Parma Lauren Style
Ralph Lauren Little Italy Bond N9 Love in
Paris Nina Ricci Max Mara Max Mara Miracle So
Magic! Lancôme Prada Prada Pure Poison
Dior Rosamor Oscar de la Renta Touch of Pink
Lacoste Visit for Woman Azzaro
Mens Fragrances B Men Thierry Mugler Beyond
Paradise Men Estée Lauder Burberry Brit Men
Burberry Incanto Homme Ferragamo LEau Bleue
pour Homme Issey Miyake LInstant pour Homme
Guerlain Magnetism for Men Escada Pure for Men
Jil Sander Reaction for Men Kenneth Cole
Unisex Fragrances Chêne Serge Lutens Daim
Blond Serge Lutens LEau des Vanilliers
LOccitane Timbuktu LArtisan Parfumeur Paired
Fragrances Aigner Black Aigner London Paul
Smith

5
Women's Fragrances
6
Apparition - Emanuel UngaroInternational,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Cayenne Pepper, Raspberry Liqueur
  • Mid Double Delight Rose, Passion Flower
  • Base Patchouli, Heliotrope
  • Special ingredient Raspberry liqueur
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Floral -
    Fruity Double delight rose, passiflore,
    raspberry, pepper note. The background is
    heliotrope and patchouli.
  • Bottle Designer Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France)
  • Concept Targets women between 18-35 years old.
    Emanuel Ungaro aims to capture the essence of
    what a woman is today with the launch of his
    third scent, Apparition. Ungaro is quoted as
    saying for me, a woman unleashes the power to
    dream, thats what I tried to do with this
    fragrance. Both sensual and mysterious, the
    fragrance will appeal to the truly modern woman.

(www.emanuelungaro.com)
7
Armani Mania - ArmaniInternational, August 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Fresh, Aromatic, Laurel, Pink Pepper
  • Mid Fruity, Acacia, Mimosa, Liquorice, Foody
  • Base Powdery, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Amber,
    Marine
  • Special ingredient Laurel
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The woody
    aromatic floral opens with top notes of Moroccan
    laurel, green mandarin zest, blackcurrant and
    pink pepper. The middle notes are magnolia,
    peony, muguet and orris. The base notes feature
    white wood, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, white
    musk and Virginia cedar.
  • Bottle Designer Fabien Baron
  • Concept It is different from the first Mania in
    that its juice is pinkish while the packaging is
    white. Mania was black for the happy few. In
    other words it is an ode to life. Targeting women
    18-34 years old, Mania Women is positioned for
    the woman who "has arrived" and as a result is
    comfortable with herself.

(www.giorgioarmani.com)
8
Be Delicious - DKNYUSA, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Fruity, Melon, Green Apple
  • Mid White Flowers, Lily, Rose
  • Base Aqueous, Violet Leaves
  • Special ingredient Apple
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The top note
    introduces American apple extract, created
    specially for DKNY, combined with cucumber,
    grapefruit and magnolia. In the middle are
    tuberose, muguet, rose and violet, drying down to
    a base of sandalwood, white amber, blonde wood
    and tender skin accord.
  • Bottle Designer Chad Lavigne
  • Concept Be Delicious is a fruity fragrance that
    celebrates life in the Big Apple. The outer
    packaging carries a sticker stating that the
    contents are 100 New York.

(www.dkny.com)
9
Blush - Marc JacobsUSA, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Jasmine, Honeysuckle
  • Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom
  • Base Aqueous, Celery, Sandalwood, Pink Musk
  • Special ingredient Honeysuckle
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Targeted to
    young, creative women, Blush opens with notes of
    jasmine nectar, jasmine fresh air and Italian
    bergamot and warms to a heart of star jasmine,
    jasmine breeze, pink freesia, orange flower and
    Japanese honeysuckle. The fragrance dries down
    to pink musk, cashmere wood and sandalwood
    accords that anchor the floral and round out
    the balance of notes.
  • Bottle Designer Chad Lavigne
  • Concept Jacobs' aim with Blush was to create the
    "sort of a perfume for the non-perfume person.
    I wanted to capture a feminine emotion, a woman
    who has a knowing blush, who is beautiful and
    seductive" The fragrance will also be launched
    with a limited edition make-up collection.

(www.marcjacobs.com)
10
Cinema - YSL International, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Fresh, Bergamot, Mandarin
  • Mid Orange Blossom, Jasmine
  • Base Amber, Vanilla, Powdery
  • Special ingredient Vanilla and musk
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The golden jus
    opens with Corsican clementine, almond tree
    blossom and cyclamen. At its heart are classic
    amaryllis, sambac jasmine and peony, rounded out
    with a base of musk, amber and lingering Bourbon
    vanilla.
  • Bottle Designer Lin Vautrin
  • Concept The scent is positioned to conjure up
    images of Hollywoods Golden Era or perhaps
    French New Wave. It is for the woman who is the
    star of her own life, someone who takes to the
    spotlight with confidence.

(www.ysl.com)
11
Echo Woman - Davidoff International, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Grape, Banana, Osmanthus
  • Mid White Flowers, Aqueous
  • Base Musky
  • Special ingredient Osmanthus
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press We softened
    its intensity with white musk and added
    femininity with floral notes of osmanthus and
    orris pulp around the heart. The juice's top note
    is grape-raspberry frappé, counteracted with a
    sensual base note of violet wood and crystal
    amber.
  • Bottle Designer Karim Rashid
  • Concept An Italian drink, grappa, was the
    inspiration for this new scent. It is targeted
    at the 25-35 year old woman.

12
Envy Me - Gucci Europe and China, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Hesperidic, Tea
  • Mid Lychee, Red Fruits, Rose
  • Base Musky
  • Special ingredient Lychee
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Its first note
    is the pink peony, followed by white tea, lychee
    and finally pink musk.
  • Concept The little sister to Envy, Envy Me is
    intended to be a more light-hearted iteration of
    the original fragrance. Still considered to be
    very seductive, Envy Me unlike Envy is not based
    on pure desire, but on a more playful flirtation.
    The aim is to make this fragrance a desirable
    Gucci accessory, just like a Gucci handbag.
    Envy Me is targeted to reach young, affluent
    educated women, especially in the Greater China
    area, who are brand aware. Target 25-35 year
    olds.

13
Infiniment - Chopard International, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Petitgrain, Pink Pepper
  • Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Ylang-ylang
  • Base Lilac, Powdery, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Tuberose, Bulgarian rose
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The heart is
    floral (rose, tuberose), enlightened by watery
    notes which announce a spicy touch (pepper
    associated to bergamot and petitgrain) and
    unveils its charms in a melting pot of benzoin,
    sandalwood and airy musks.
  • Bottle Designer Jérôme Faillant-Dumas
  • Concept The latest fragrance from luxury
    jeweller Chopard, Infiniment, is intended to
    have the same long-lasting appeal as their
    jewellery. The use of the adjective infinitely
    in the name was taken seriously since the project
    was developed with Chopards luxury roots in
    mind. The company wanted to go back to what
    Chopard stands for and deliver a high-end,
    upscale product. With this "skin jewel", French
    jeweller Chopard pursues his olfactive career in
    an ultra-feminine style.

14
Iris Nobile - Acqua di Parma International,
October 2004
  • Olfactive Family CHYPRE FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Orris, Star Anise
  • Mid Orris, Orange Blossom
  • Base Orris, Amber
  • Special ingredient Orris
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Iris Nobile
    notes include orris petals, Sicilian mandarin and
    Calabrian bergamot, middle notes of orris petals
    and bottom notes of orris roots, Madagascan
    vanilla and amber crystals.
  • Bottle Designer Acqua di Parma studio
  • Concept "We have dedicated Iris Nobile to a
    woman who is fascinating, chic, feminine, sensual
    and intellectual. This is not a fashion
    fragrance, but something that has its own style".
    An orris made in the Florentine fashion with
    orange blossom and precious pearls.

(www.acquadiparma.com)
15
Lauren Style - Ralph Lauren USA, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Gardenia, Orange Blossom
  • Mid Muguet, Jasmine
  • Base Patchouli, Vanilla, Musky
  • Special ingredient Orange blossom
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
    is described as a "suèded floral. It includes
    opening notes of tangerine-kumquat, lime and
    Moroccan orange flower, blending into floral
    notes including jasmine, Tahitian gardenia and
    magnolia in the heart patchouli, benzoin siam,
    suede and musk base notes.
  • Concept The fragrance was created in synergy
    with the Lauren fashion line, which relaunched
    this spring. It will target sophisticated and
    elegant women between 25 and 50.

(www.polo.com)
16
Little Italy - Bond N9 USA, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family HESPERIDIC
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Clementine, Grapefruit, Mandarin
  • Mid Tangerine, Jasmine
  • Base Musk
  • Special ingredient Clementine
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press An updated
    citrus splash/spray featuring top notes of
    clementine, grapefruit and mandarin, a heart of
    tangerine and jasmine accords and a sheer musk
    base note.
  • Bottle Designer Laurice Rahme
  • Concept Little Italy is the new fragrance in
    their series inspired by various New York
    neighbourhoods. It is the nineteenth scent in
    Bond No 9s line.

17
Love in Paris - Nina Ricci International except
USA, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Star Anise
  • Mid Jasmine, Rose, Peony, Apricot, Aqueous
  • Base Woods, Musk, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Rose, Peony, Jasmine
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The juice's
    top notes feature Italian bergamot and star
    anise. Heart notes include rose, peony, apricot
    and jasmine, while at the base are notes of
    woods, vanilla and musk.
  • Bottle Designer Jérôme Faillant-Dumas (L.O.V.E)
  • Concept "Nina Ricci has always carried a
    positive message to women. Love in Paris comes
    at a not very positive time, so we want to bring
    a message of happiness". The Love in Paris name
    is supposed to recall Nina Ricci's Parisian roots
    and the brand's recurring theme of romance.

(www.ninaricci.com)
18
Max Mara - Max MaraFrance, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Citrus Fruits, Green
  • Mid Aldehydic, Fruity, Apricot, Strawberry
  • Base Musky, Vanilla, Cedarwood
  • Special ingredient Cane Sugar
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A floral
    fragrance with a textile association. Linen
    freshness in top notes with ginger, Sicilian
    lemon. Feminine mid notes with lily, orchid (silk
    sensuality) and magnolia. Sweet base notes to
    show the comfort of cashmere, cedarwood and
    sandalwood. Main ingredient Cane sugar give its
    softness and its personality to the perfume
  • Bottle Designer Thierry de Baschmakoff
    (Aesthète)
  • Concept Max Mara womens fragrance is described
    as fresh, luminous and feminine created to
    capture the 53 year old fashion houses engaging
    sense of practical glamour. Just like the
    clothing, the scent is meant to have a lifestyle
    rather than generation appeal. Max Mara's aim is
    to position it as one of the key fragrances in
    Europe within three years.

19
Miracle So Magic! - Lancôme International,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL GREEN
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Watery, Green
  • Mid Muguet, Rose, Fruity
  • Base Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Rose and narcissus
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A floral,
    green and sparkling note. With narcissus
    absolute, eglantine rose and clover leaves for
    the green note, which is very different from the
    floral spicy-pepper note in Miracle.
  • Concept A magical encounter between two flowers
    wild rose and narcissus, sparkling as a pink
    champagne. The gentle beauty and the wild thing.
    An interesting clover note provides the fragrance
    with a fresh, green crispness. The base note is
    sensual, thanks to the presence of vanilla notes.

(www2.lancome.com)
20
Prada - Prada International, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Mandarin
  • Mid Rose, Pink Pepper, Patchouli
  • Base Cistus Labdanum, Benzoin, Tonka Bean,
    Vanilla, Amber
  • Special ingredient Sandalwood, Patchouli leaves,
    Labdanum resin and Benzoin
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Top notes are
    Italian bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, Sicilian
    mandarin oil and mimosa absolute. In the middle
    are rose absolute, schinus molle absolute and
    patchouli oil Indonesia. The bottom accords are
    labdanum resinoid, tonka bean absolute, vanilla
    absolute, sandalwood India and bezoin Siam
    resinoïd.
  • Concept Built as a truly feminine scent and a
    modern day classic, the Prada fragrance is a
    modern take on essential oils. It is an amber
    scent built around four time-honoured essences,
    each meant to reflect one of four dimensions
    sandalwood oil from India is pure patchouli
    leaves from Indonesia are addictive labdanum
    resin from France is precious and benzoin from
    Siam is profound. Distribution from August 2004
    at Niemann Marcus and Prada stores

21
Pure Poison - Dior International, October 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Mandarin, Petitgrain
  • Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom
  • Base Sandalwood, Musk, Amber
  • Special ingredient Orange blossom
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Pure Poison's
    top notes include sweet orange, Calabrian
    bergamot and Sicilian mandarin. The middle notes
    are orange flower, jasmine sambac and hydroponic
    living gardenia. The base notes feature
    sandalwood, white amber and musks.
  • Concept Today, Pure Poison is about celebrating
    the seductress in modern women. The Poison range
    is in second position among Dior fragrances after
    J'Adore. The whole range has been repackaged with
    this new launch.

(www.dior.com)
22
Rosamor - Oscar de la Renta International,
October 2004
  • Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Mandarin, Muguet
  • Mid Gardenia, Rose, Ylang-Ylang
  • Base Sandalwood, Tonka Bean
  • Special ingredient White flowers
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press It opens with
    fruity floral notes of Italian mandarin and
    muguet, warmed by a heart of ylang-ylang, Indian
    tuberose heliotrope, rose and gardenia. The base
    is a sensuous mix of sandalwood and tonka bean.
  • Concept Rosamor, the seventh scent by Oscar de
    la Renta, is derived from the Spanish words
    meaning flower and love. He says that he wants
    Rosamor to be a scent that women fall in love
    with. "Women may say, I don't need a new
    fragrance, but I have fallen in love with it".

23
Touch of Pink - Lacoste International, October
2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Grapefruit, Orange, Aromatic, Coriander
    Leaves
  • Mid Jasmine, Aldehydic
  • Base Aqueous, Sandalwood, Musk, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Orange
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A perfume that
    blends energy, femininity and sensuality. A
    floral heart of jasmine and violet. Lively,
    fruity touches (orange, carrot) and a sweet,
    woodsy close that is both gentle and persistent
    at the same time. 
  • Bottle Designer Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France)
  • Concept Lacoste Touch of Pink was created to
    capture the idea of living every moment to the
    fullest and the joy of chasing after new
    sensations. The colour is meant to convey spirit
    and vitality, in line with the scent's
    positioning in a category centred on energy and
    Lacoste's sporting heritage. Target women
    between 16-24 years old.

(www.lacoste.com)
24
Visit for Woman - Azzaro International, October
2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBERY FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bitter Orange Leaves, Green
  • Mid Rose, Jasmine
  • Base Cedarwood, Animal, Leather, Spicy,
    Coumarine
  • Special ingredient Rose, Jasmine, Mandarin
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Floral - Woody
    - Ambery a fresh and spicy top note (pimento
    and bigarade leaves) followed by a floral middle
    note (Indian jasmine and peppered rose from
    Bulgaria (abs E.O.) and a woody and leather
    base (cashmeran, patchouli, tonka beans, benzoin)
    background.
  • Bottle designer Federico Restrepo
  • Concept The counterpart to the mens fragrance
    which launched last year, Visit for Women
    continues the seduction. While the ad campaign
    for the mens scent is about a mans encounter
    with a mysterious unseen woman, the ad for Visit
    for Women reveals her identity. The two
    scenarios play off against each other creating a
    true connection between the fragrances.

(www.azzaroparis.com)
25
Men's Fragrances
26
BMen - Mugler International, August 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Liquorice, Spicy
  • Mid Spicy
  • Base Woody, Vetyver, Amber
  • Special ingredient Rhubarb
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press With its
    fruity, spicy notes blended with rhubarb, the
    scent delivers a stunning new energy. The
    fragrances architecture was constructed from
    sensual, luminous sequoia wood, reinforced with
    amber and dry wood notes.
  •  Bottle designer Thierry Mugler
  • Concept This new essence for men is inspired by
    Thierry Muglers childhood passion for comic
    books and superheroes. And so, a few years after
    the successful launch of AMen, comes the amazing
    BMen, the second hero of this fantastic saga. A
    character with incredible powers, the champion of
    a world in danger. The fragrance aims to be more
    rhythmic and dynamic than AMen. While preserving
    the same geometric shapes, it adopts a new colour
    scheme red and khaki. 

(www.thierrymugler.fr)
27
Beyond Paradise Men - Estée Lauder USA, August
2004
  • Olfactive Family HESPERIDIC WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Mandarin, Agrest
  • Mid Lavender, Sage, Tarragon, Thyme
  • Base Woody, Aqueous, Musky
  • Special ingredient Buchu
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The scent
    opens with notes of Eden's Mist, a watery, fresh
    ingredient captured from the biome jacticaba
    fruit, a tart Brazilian ingredient Eden Buchu, a
    green, slightly citrus element and an ingredient
    the team called the Wave Accord a blend of mint,
    mandarin and mousse de mer. The heart of the
    fragrance is a Mediterranean accord, a blend of
    lavender, Provencal sage, tarragon and thyme
    absolute, and cistus, a balsamic woody-smelling
    element. The drydown is made up of Eden vetyver
    and golden Melaleuca bark, both captured from the
    Eden Project's biomes. Beechwood, oakmoss and
    Indonesian patchouli, all add richness.
  • Bottle Designer John Fling
  • Concept Targeting men aged 18-34, Beyond
    Paradise Men is based on exotic ingredients
    obtained from a partnership with the Eden
    Project, the largest conservatory in the world.
    Men, nature, and women are key to mens idea of
    fantasy and Beyond Paradise is an attempt to
    speak to mens desire to escape.

(www.esteelauder.com)
(www.eden-project.co.uk)
28
Burberry Brit for Men - Burberry USA/Europe,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL SPICY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Green Mandarin, Cardamom, Ginger
  • Mid Wild Rose, Nutmeg, Cedarwood
  • Base Woody, Tonka Bean, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Ginger
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The
    fragrance's top note is green and mandarin,
    freshly cut ginger, bergamot, and cardamom, while
    the midrange is a mix of wild roses and cedar
    wood. The base note is made from oriental wood,
    grey musk and tonka bean.
  • Bottle designer Fabien Baron
  • Concept "What we had in mind was a guy with a
    scruffy elegance, sexy, bohemian, but still
    approachable. We had the young Mick Jagger in
    mind." The face of the new campaign is British
    actor and Oxford graduate Hugh Dancy. Sitting in
    front of a 1968 Aston Martin, elegantly dressed
    in a pinstriped Burberry suit, he looks like a
    70s rock star, and embodies to perfection the
    laid-back, elegant spirit of this new scent for
    men. 

(www.inter-parfums.com)
29
Incanto pour Homme - Ferragamo Duty Free,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY AMBER
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Lemon, Bigarade, Verbena, Aromatic
  • Mid Geranium
  • Base Leather, Sandalwood, Musk
  • Special ingredient Cypress
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Incanto pour
    Homme is a member of the woody amber olfactive
    family. The scent has a strong flavour of a
    woody heart note of Tuscan cypress, a bow to the
    designer's Florentine identity. The cypress is
    combined with top notes including Sicilian
    bigarade and bamboo leaf and bottom notes of
    Indonesian sandalwood and white musk.
  • Bottle designer Tap by Serge Mansau
  • Concept Incanto pour Homme is faithful to
    Salvatore Ferragamo's roots with an Italian
    aspect of innovation in pairing contrasting raw
    materials of Tuscan cypress with the modernity of
    bamboo leaves.

(www.ferragamo.com)
30
LEau Bleue pour Homme - Issey Miyake Europe,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY HESPERIDIC
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Star Anise, Mandarin
  • Mid Spicy, Agrest (Lavender, Rosemary)
  • Base Leather, Patchouli, Musky, Ambrette Seed,
    Palmarosa
  • Special ingredient Star Anise
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
    was built as an "olfactive spiral" instead of a
    pyramid. A sparkling top note with tangerine,
    rosemary, citronella and star anise. The mid note
    is absolute May Rose, palmarosa and capucine. The
    background is patchouli, sandalwood and ambrette.
  • Bottle designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
    Agency)
  • Concept L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Pour Homme was
    inspired by the elements and is described as a
    symbol of water, life energy, purity and love.
    The blue invites you plunge right into the
    bottle. LEau Bleue invites you to Immerse
    yourself in bluecolours that come together in
    watery depths states the company.

31
LInstant pour Homme - Guerlain International,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER HESPERIDIC
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Lemon, Star Anise
  • Mid Spicy, Pepper
  • Base Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Patchouli
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A fresh,
    citrus fruit, spicy (star anise) top note. The
    heart is sensual with jasmine, sandalwood, tea
    lapsong and cocoa beans. The background is
    patchouli.
  • Bottle designer L.O.V.E
  • Concept LInstant de Guerlain Pour Homme
    launches this year as the companion to last
    years womens version. The fragrance is the
    perfect mate for the womens as it completes the
    story about a couple. The womens side was about
    the moment when everything changes, the mens
    talks about taking action to change life.

(www.guerlain.com)
32
Magnetism for Men - Escada International,
October 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY AMBER
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Spicy, Shinus Molle, Saffron
  • Mid Cedarwood, Lavender
  • Base Amber, Vanilla, Tobacco, Sandalwood,
    Leather
  • Special ingredient Shinus molle
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Its spicy top
    notes include shinus and saffron, while notes of
    cedar, sandalwood and leather are at its heart.
    The scent's base features notes of tolu balm,
    amber and musk.
  • Bottle designer Nicosia Creative Expresso
  • Concept Magnetism for men was inspired by the
    seduction and attraction that some men exude, a
    sort of magnetism. The scent is being introduced
    as the mate to last year's Magnetism for women
    and is meant to fuel the development of the
    Escada men's beauty business.

(www.escada.com)
33
Pure for Men - Jil Sander Germany, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Spicy, slight Banana effect
  • Mid Juniper Berry, Elemi
  • Base Dry Woods, Aqueous, Musky, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Elemi
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Described as a
    scent for every day, the fragrance starts with
    mandarin, juniper berry and spicy elemi. It has a
    rounded accord of white musk, watery bamboo and
    what Lancaster calls a 'pure air' molecule. It
    then moves into mahogany, sandalwood and vanilla
    bean.
  • Bottle designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
    Agency)
  • Concept A year after Pure for Women, Jil Sander
    launches a male companion. Described as a scent
    for every day, Pure for Men is elegant, with a
    simple way of being convincing, without any
    thrill nor exaggeration.

34
Reaction for Men - Kenneth Cole USA, September
2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY FRUITY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Grapefruit, Mandarin, Green Apple
  • Mid Muguet
  • Base Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk
  • Special ingredient Melon and green apple
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Reaction is
    described as a citrus green woody fragrance with
    top notes of lime, melon rind and green apple.
    Middle notes include muguet and watermelon.
    Bottom notes consist of musk, patchouli and
    sandalwood.
  • Bottle designer Chad Lavigne
  • Concept Like the Reaction clothing line, on
    which the new scent is based, the Reaction
    fragrance has a casual positioning and accessible
    price. For those men who love scooter rides,
    snowboarding getaways, electronic music and
    trendy fashion.

(www.kennethcole.com)
35
Unisex Fragrances
36
Chêne - Salon du Palais Royal/Serge Lutens
France, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY AROMATIC
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Fresh, Fruity, Rum
  • Mid Aromatic, Thyme
  • Base Woody, Fir Balsam, Cade, Tar
  • Special ingredient Oak, Rum
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press An intensely
    sensual, highly comfortable woodsy essence. The
    oak note is reinforced with resinous and spicy
    black thyme, plus the almost smoky scent of
    silver birch bark, a rum note and an
    undergrowth-and-tonka-bean closing. An
    extraordinary success. 
  • Bottle Designer Serge Lutens
  • Concept After Fumerie Turque, the Shiseido
    salons at Pariss Palais Royal have once again
    launched an emotional fragrance evocative of
    wonderful tales and rare ingredients.
    Orchestrated by the houses own creator, Serge
    Lutens, the oak, the tree that is a symbol of
    strength from fairy tales to Richard the
    Lionheart, here becomes an elixir of bold
    sensuality. A confident scent in which woods,
    resins and balms are transcended. A rare essence
    for men and women to share. 

(www.salons-shiseido.com)
37
Daim Blond - Serge Lutens France, September 2004
  • Olfactive Family CHYPRE FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Cardamom
  • Mid Orris, Jasmine
  • Base Musk, Heliotrope
  • Special ingredient Orris
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A rare and
    delicate approach to leather. Spicy, musky,
    creamy. With the creators ever-present desire to
    offer his clients only the best raw materials.
    Here we find Pallida Orris, Ceylonese cardamom
    and hawthorn blossom. 
  • Bottle Designer The house bottle, rectangular,
    pared down and refined. As the first product in
    the new High Concentration Eaux de Parfum, Daim
    Blond is dressed in new colours black case,
    black label. 
  • Concept Serge Lutens loves the rare materials
    that he crafts with delicacy, taking the time to
    transform each one into a masterpiece. And so
    Daim Blond was born. The name alone (it means
    white suede) offers the promise of a magical
    olfactory voyage. Creamy, downy, a sensation at
    the limit of your skin, where touch and smell
    seem to meet and blend into one. A rare and
    intense (with 20, instead of the usual 15)
    moment to share between a man and a woman. 

(www.shiseido.co.jp)
38
LEau des Vanilliers - LOccitane France,
November 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Ylang, Freesia, White Orchid
  • Mid Jasmine, Vanilla
  • Base Amber, Musk, Clove Bud
  • Special ingredient Vanilla
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
    contains notes of ylang-ylang, freesia, vanilla
    absolute and jasmine.
  • Bottle Designer In-house
  • Concept L'Occitane introduces consumers to the
    Fragrance Merchant with the launch, this autumn
    of L'Occitane Vanilla (one of 5) a new and
    delectable scent. Many are surprised to know that
    vanilla comes from the pods of an orchid. The
    flowers of this rare and special plant last only
    a brief time, and require meticulous hand
    pollination. The vanilla scent recalls our early
    childhood and is a symbol of a sweet gourmet
    moment. Approximately 25 of women's fragrances
    are composed using vanilla, representing an
    important contribution to the scent world.

(www.loccitane.com)
39
Timbuktu - LArtisan Parfumeur France, September
2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Green Mango, Spices
  • Mid Coffee Bush Flower, Karo Karounde
  • Base Cumin, Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetyver, Musk,
    Incense, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Woods
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A unisex
    fragrance that has spice in the top, heart and
    base notes and exudes wild flower scents and
    smoked woods. An unusual woodsy fragrance, both
    dense and sensual, dry and spellbinding. The
    opening blends the freshness of green mango with
    the heat of peppery spices. The heart is wild, a
    nectar of frankincense, papyrus smoke and the
    bewitchingly spicy karo karounde blossom. The
    earthy closing speaks in tones of patchouli
    leaves, myrrh and benzoin resins, and vetyver
    root. Perfect for anyone, male or female, who
    enjoys woodsy scents. 
  • Bottle Designer Federico Restrepo
  • Concept Timbuktu invites us to discover the
    secret smells of African culture. In Mali, people
    still practice the ancestral art of wusulan. They
    concoct a magical salve, with scents of wood,
    spices, resins and roots. After first letting it
    macerate, they then let the potion boil away,
    while their skin absorbs the richly scented
    swirls of smoke. Thus was born Timbuktu, a heady
    and arousing scent, at once savage and
    sophisticated. A magical potion for men and women
    to share.

(www.artisan-parfumeur.com)
40
Paired Fragrances
41
Aigner Black for Woman - Aigner International,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Lime, Aromatic
  • Mid Rose, Incense
  • Base Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky, Vanilla
  • Special ingredient Vanilla
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press A citrus
    cocktail of bergamot, mandarin, rose, aniseed,
    sandalwood and vanilla
  • Bottle Designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
    Agency)
  • Concept Aigner, famous for its leather goods,
    launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo,
    Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second
    line to launch under the Aigner fragrance
    umbrella following last years Leather. Black is
    designed to be modern, trendy and cool. The
    pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in
    their early to mid thirties.

42
Aigner Black for Man - Aigner International,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY HESPERIDIC
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Bergamot, Grapefruit, Orange
  • Mid Pine, Mint
  • Base Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky , Moss
  • Special ingredient Leather
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press Aigner Black
    for Man contains bergamot, orange, grapefruit,
    wild pine, black musk, tonka bean, styrax and
    leather.
  • Bottle Designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
    Agency)
  • Concept Aigner, famous for its leather goods,
    launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo,
    Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second
    line to launch under the Aigner fragrance
    umbrella following last years Leather. Black is
    designed to be modern, trendy and cool. The
    pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in
    their early to mid thirties.

43
London Woman - Paul Smith International,
September 2004
  • Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Mandarin, Raspberry
  • Mid Jasmine, Violet
  • Base Sandalwood, Orris, Tonka Bean, Vanilla,
    Powdery
  • Special ingredient Patchouli
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The women's
    fragrance has patchouli at its centre. Top notes
    are of lime, neroli, lilac leaf, jasmine,
    heliotrope, aniseed, vanilla and fresh syringa
    and the drydown is of amber and green woods.
  • Bottle Designer Pierre Dinand
  • Concept With his latest fragrance duo, Paul
    Smith has bottled everything he loves about his
    hometown, London. Inspired by the electric vibe
    of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it
    is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul
    Smith and Extreme.

(www.paulsmith.co.uk)
44
London Man Paul Smith International, September
2004
  • Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
  • Olfactive Description
  • Top Lime, Anise
  • Mid Spicy
  • Base Amber, Cedarwood
  • Special ingredient Violet
  • Olfactive Description Trade Press The Paul Smith
    London men's scent is built around a vetyver
    heart. It has top notes of green mandarin,
    violet flowers and leaves, mint, jasmine and
    lavender, and a drydown of vintage brandy,
    Australian sandalwood, tonka beans, and amber.
  • Bottle Designer Pierre Dinand
  • Concept With his latest fragrance duo, Paul
    Smith has bottled everything he loves about his
    hometown, London. Inspired by the electric vibe
    of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it
    is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul
    Smith and Extreme.

(www.paulsmith.co.uk)
45
Conclusions
46
Olfactive Trends
  • On the womens side, most of the recent launches
    belong to the floral fruity/woody and amber
    floral families. Most novelties this semester
    have a fruity facet, whether they are smooth
    (Armani Mania, Apparition, Pure Poison) or fresh
    (Miracle, Love in Paris, Infiniment). On the
    other hand, amber fragrances are usually
    associated with a discreet sensuality, they are
    floral or powdery (Cinema, Max Mara, Barbara
    Bui).
  • Mens fragrance launches are mainly represented
    in the woody aromatic and woody spicy olfactive
    families. On the woody side, Paul Smiths London
    for Man has an interesting amber and green facet
    and Burberry Brit Man is one of the rare amber
    masculine fragrances this season.
  • We seem to have finished with citrus fruity top
    notes. Perfumers are working on green, plant
    notes which go through the heart of the fragrance
    (cf. Blush, Armani Mania). This freshness is also
    transmitted through an anise note in lInstant de
    Guerlain pour homme, or in Paul Smiths London
    for Woman, while Muglers BMen starts with a
    rhubarb note.

47
Olfactive Trends
  • We observe a lighter approach to the foody
    trend with dry fruit notes, green fruits such as
    rhubarb (B Men) and kiwi, liquors (Apparition,
    Echo Woman), honey, vanilla and chocolate.
  • There is a search for quality and density of
    fragrances illustrated by interesting use of raw
    materials, from which we conclude a fourfold
    classification for this years launches
  • Fashion Accessories Pure Poison, Iris Nobile,
    Cinema, Love in Paris, Blush and Infiniment
  • Floral Lightness Miracle So Magic!, Touch of
    Pink, Visit for Woman
  • Touch Sensation Armani Mania, Max Mara, Hermès
    Hermessences new quartet (not included in
    this notebook)
  • The Appeal of the Flesh Apparition, Crystal
    Noir, My Torrente.
  • Furthermore, many highly selective fragrances
    (with restricted distribution) are being launched
    in Europe Hermessence by Hermès(4), Cologne by
    Dior(3), Prada Edt(4), with the intention of
    insuring the brands image and singularity rather
    than realising a significant turnover. In other
    words, they are using the intrinsic value of the
    brand.

48
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
49
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
50
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
51
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
52
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
53
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
54
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
55
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
56
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
57
Summary
  • In terms of marketing, we see master branding
    playing a key role in this years launches giving
    consumers the newness they crave while further
    cementing a brands image
  • Couples were out in full force, 38 of the new
    launches this year are part of a fragrance couple
  • 8 new mens and 7 new womens counterparts for
    previously launched fragrances
  • 12 new fragrance duos
  • Limited Editions Summer Versions
  • Following a trend that Escada established over 10
    years ago, many major brands are now launching
    seasonal creations to tempt consumers and
    generate excitement
  • 20 major brands launched summer versions of
    established fragrances

58
Summary
  • Celebrities are crashing the fragrance party,
    whether via advertising or launching their own
    signature scent
  • Capitalising on the success of Céline Dion and
    Jennifer Lopez, celebrities such as Britney
    Spears, Jessica Simpson, Beyonce Knowles have all
    hit the launch pad with their own fragrances
  • Sean P-Diddy Combs, Donald Trump and Paris
    Hilton fragrances are due out by early 2005
  • Meanwhile Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kim Cattrall and
    Scarlett Johansson appear in significant ad
    campaigns
  • An air of exclusivity is in evidence from the
    launches of fragrance collections from prestige
    fashion brands Hermes, Prada and Dior
  • These fragrances are launched without commercial
    consideration in an attempt to signal luxury and
    exclusivity

59
Appendix ILimited Editions, Flankers, Duos
Other Notable Launches
Pink Womens Blue Mens Green Paired

60
Appendix IIWhos Who?
Aigner Black - Aigner - Puig Apparition -
Emanuel Ungaro - ITF Armani Mania - Armani -
LOréal Be Delicious - DKNY - Estée Lauder B Men
- Thierry Mugler - Clarins Group Beyond Paradise
Men - Estée Lauder Blush - Marc Jacobs -
Coty Burberry Brit Men - Burberry - Inter
Parfums Cinema - YSL - Gucci Group Chêne - Serge
Lutens Daim Blond - Salons du Palais Royal -
Serge Lutens Echo Woman - Davidoff -
Lancaster/Coty Envy Me - Gucci - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Incanto Homme - Ferragamo -
ITF Infiniment - Chopard - Lancaster/Coty Iris
Nobile - Acqua di Parma - Dior/LVMH LEau Bleue
pour Homme - Issey Miyake - BPI/Shiseido
LEau des Vanilliers - LOccitane LInstant pour
Homme - Guerlain - LVMH Lauren Style - Ralph
Lauren - LOréal Little Italy - Bond N9 -
LauriceCo London - Paul Smith - Inter
Parfums Love in Paris - Nina Ricci -
Puig Magnetism for Men - Escada - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Max Mara - Max Mara - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Miracle So Magic! - Lancôme -
LOréal Prada - Prada Beauty - Puig Pure Poison -
Dior - LVMH Pure for Men - Jil Sander -
Lancaster/Coty Reaction for Men - Kenneth Cole -
Coty Rosamor - Oscar de la Renta - Gucci
Groue Timbuktu - LArtisan Parfumeur - Cradle
Holding Touch of Pink - Lacoste - PG Visit for
Woman - Azzaro - Clarins Group
61
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