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Fairchild Books


In America, beaver was the most sought after fur at the turn of the 18th century. ... Mink holds a commanding lead with fox and beaver, in that order, behind it ' ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Fairchild Books

?2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Leather and Fur
  • The Leather Industry
  • History and Development
  • Organization and Operation
  • Merchandising and Marketing
  • Trends in the Leather Industry
  • The Fur Industry
  • History and Development
  • Organization and Operation
  • Merchandising and Marketing
  • Trends in the Fur Industry

The Leather Industry
  • Leather and fur are the oldest, most sought
    after, and most glamorous of textiles.
  • Both leather and fur are animal skins
  • One side of the skin is leather, the other is
  • The leather industry is currently expanding its

  • Preparing leather is a specialized, time
    consuming effort
  • Orders require 8 to 16 months advance notice
  • The leather industry suffers less abuse than the
    fur industry from PETA as leather is mainly a
    by-product of the meat packing industry

Types of Tanneries
  • Regular
  • Purchase and process skins and hides into leather
  • Contract
  • Process skins and hides for converters, but are
    not involved in the final sale of the leather
  • Converters
  • Purchase skins and hides
  • Commission contract tanneries to process
  • Sell the finished product to manufacturers

Categories of Leather
  • Almost all leather comes from cattle. But the
    hides and skins of many other animals are also
    used in fashion apparel and accessories. There
    are nine major categories of leather
  • Exotic Leathers
  • Aquatic Frog, seal, shark, walrus
  • Land Camel, elephant, ostrich
  • Reptile Alligator, crocodile, lizard, snake

Classification of Pelts
  • Skins
  • Less than 15 pounds
  • Kips
  • More than 15 pounds, but less than 25 pounds
  • Hides
  • More than 25 pounds

Transforming these skins into leather requires
three to six months, utilizing a process called
Leather Processing
  • Tanning can be accomplished through the use of
  • Minerals
  • Vegetables
  • Oils
  • Chemicals
  • A combination of the above

Merchandising and Marketing
  • Because of the long lead times involved, leather
    forecasters are among the best and most
    experienced in the industry
  • To protect and broaden the market leather
    producers constantly broaden their range of
    colors, weights, and textures

Leather Trade Associations and Trade Shows
  • Leather Industries of America (LIA)
  • Sponsors semiannual color seminars
  • Supports a Hide Training School
  • Sponsors a student design award
  • Trade Shows
  • Semaine du Cuir, ParisSeptember
  • Hong Kong International Leather FairJune
  • Tanners Apparel and Garment Show (TAG),

Trends in Leather
  • The leather industry has changed because of three
  • Enlarging market opportunities
  • Increased competition from synthetics
  • Increased foreign trade

Leather as a Fashion Force
  • The versatility of leather is a hit as a fashion
    force for sportswear and on the red carpet

Fur History and Development
  • By the Middle Ages, fur announced ones wealth and
  • In America, beaver was the most sought after fur
    at the turn of the 18th century.
  • J.J. Astor owed his fortune to the trade
  • In 1900, the Chilean government backed a loan
    with chinchilla skins.

Fur History and Development
  • As beaver became scarce, Lincoln wore a silk hat
    to his inauguration
  • The demand for beaver hats ceased overnight
  • Demand for fur remained strong among women
  • Prince Edward Island, Canada started farming furs
    in 1880

Fur Fashions Change Slowly
  • Todays market reflects the most varied list of
    popular furs ever
  • Mink holds a commanding lead with fox and beaver,
    in that order, behind it
  • Contemporary furs, a new category, include
    raccoon, fox, beaver, coyote, muskrat, tanuki
    (Japanese raccoon) and nutria (South American
    beaver-like animal)

PETA vs. Fur Industry
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals
  • PETA has staged a variety of protests and pickets
  • Other groups have raided fur farms releasing the
    animals, or destroying pedigree documents
  • Still others have confronted consumers, throwing
    paint on women wearing fur coats

Fur Industry Has Responded Strongly
  • Their argument
  • Fur farms do not remove animals from the wild
  • 95 of fur used comes from humane trapping
  • Real fur does not use non-renewable
    petroleum-based products which pollute the

Faux furs have grown in both quality and hence
popularity recently.
Organization and Operation
  • Three groups represent the three stages of
  • Trappers
  • Fur processing companies
  • Manufacturers of fur products

Pelt Production
  • Trappers are the primary source of wild animal
  • The majority of furs come from farms or ranches
  • Fur pelts are sold at auctions, much like they
    were in the 13th century

Fur Product Manufacturers
  • Manufacturers contract with fur dressing and fur
    dyeing firms to process them
  • Processing steps are usually performed by hand,
    although technology is turning it into a more
    mechanical process, allowing the worker to deal
    with each individual pelts color, quality, and
  • Innovations in 1989 by Fendi
  • All fur can be reversible
  • Lightweight, minimal bulk, fur that moves easily
    with the wearer

Retail Distribution of Fur
  • Happens in 1,500 stores nationwide
  • Leased departments in department stores are
  • Consignment selling, where the fur manufacturer
    supplies merchandise to a retail store on loan,
    is another example of retail distribution in the
    fur industry
  • Note that retailers have both off the rack furs
    and maintain their own pelts for custom work

Merchandising and Marketing
  • The Fur Labels Product Act of 1952 required
  • English name of animal
  • Country of origin
  • Type of processing to which pelt was subjected
  • Whether or not parts have been cut from less
    desirable paw or tail sections

Trade Associations Fur Fairs
  • The leading trade association is the Fur
    Information Council of America (FICA). They
    represent retailers and manufacturers.
  • American Legend Cooperative is a mink ranchers
    association combining two major mink producing
    groupsEmba Mink Breeders Association (EMBA) and
    Great Lakes Mink Association (GLMA).
  • Designers, manufacturers, retailers,
    import/exporters, wholesalers, and the media all
    attend one or more of the leading international
    fur fairs. They are held in Tokyo, Hong Kong,
    Milan, Moscow, Frankfurt and Montreal.

Four Trends in Fur
  • Renewed fashion interest in furs
  • Increased foreign trade allowed for exports of
    high quality U.S. pelts
  • Legislation protects endangered species to the
    detriment of non-endangered species
  • New channels of distribution widen the audience
  • Mail order
  • Hotel, armory and arena sales

Elegant or Rock Roll
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