A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM.

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A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE
JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM.
Andrew Cody Dr Michael Hopkins Rapaport Fair
Trade Conference
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• Labour issues
• Environmental issues
• Who receives the returns
• Treatments

• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Chemical pollution
• Landscape scarring
• Trees
• Wildlife
• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling
• Disclosure

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Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures
and standards.
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Jewellery Supply Chain
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What makes a mining operation Ethical?
First Tier
Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners
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Gold Claims around the world
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Metal Refining Process
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Global Diamond Deposits
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Top 39 Gemstone Supplier Countries

• Afghanistan Tajikistan
• Argentina
• Australia
• Bolivia
• Brazil
• Cambodia

• Canada
• China
• Colombia
• Congo
• Dominican Republic
• Ethiopia Somalia

• Guatemala
• Honduras
• India
• Iran
• Kenya
• Laos

• Madagascar
• Malawi
• Mexico
• Mozambique
• Myanmar
• Namibia

• Nigeria
• Pakistan
• Peru
• Russia
• South Africa
• Sri Lanka

• Tanzania
• Thailand
• Turkey
• Uruguay
• USA
• Vietnam

• Zambia

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Pearl Farm
Pearl Harvest
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Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining

• Labour issues
• Environmental issues
• Who receives the returns
• Treatments

• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities
• Chemical pollution
• Landscape scarring
• Trees
• Wildlife
• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling
• Disclosure

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• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities

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Child Labour in Mining

• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities

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• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities

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• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities

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• Human rights
• Youth
• Wages Conditions
• Safety conditions
• Displacement of communities

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• Chemical pollution
• Landscape scarring
• Trees
• Wildlife

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Environmental Impacts

• Chemical pollution
• Landscape scarring
• Trees
• Wildlife

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• Chemical pollution
• Landscape scarring
• Trees
• Wildlife

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• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling

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• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling

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• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling

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• Political
• Terrorists
• Money Laundering
• Smuggling

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• Disclosure
• Safety issues

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203 Sovereign States Different Cultures Different
Standards Different Rules
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Other Problems Associated with Implementing
Ethical Trade
Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary
according to

• Different Products- Gemstones Metals
• Different Supplier Countries
• Different Cultures
• Different Economic Structures
• Different Labour Standards

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Large miners will be easier to regulate
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What about the thousands of small miners?
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I cant see this man being regulated easily!
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Manufacturing chain
2nd Tier

• Environment
• Treatments
• Safety Issues

• Labour Conditions
• Chemicals
• Treatment disclosures
• Accurate Descriptions

• Full Disclosure
• Harmonisation

• Disclosure
• Safety

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Third Fourth Tiers
Third Tier
Fourth Tier

• Integrity-Deal only with Ethically Trading
  miners manufacturers
• Guarantees
• Full Disclosure of treatments

• Integrity
• Honesty
• Buys from a source he believes is ethical
• Guarantees
• Discloses Treatments

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Responsible Jewellery Council Members

• Mining
• AngloGold Ashanti
• Arslanian Freres NV
• Bonas Co. Ltd
• Dalumi Diamonds
• Diarough N.V.
• Dimexon Diamonds
• HRA Investments Ltd
• I.Hennig Co. Ltd
• Lazare Kaplan International Inc.
• Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2
• Rosy Blue N.V.
• Rothschild Diamonds Ltd
• Sima Diamond NV
• Steinmetz
• Suashish Diamonds

• Trade Associations
• The American Gem Society
• British Jewellers Association
• Jewellers of America
• Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America
  Inc.
• National Mining Association
• The National Association of Goldsmiths
• World Gold Council

• Service Industries (inc. financial institutions)
• Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO
• The Assay Office

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Responsible Jewellery Council Members

• Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale
• DN Gems Corp
• Gabriel Co
• Jaeger-LeCoultre
• J.B. Jewelry
• Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC
• Libman Company Ltd
• Kristall Inc.
• Regal Imports Ltd
• Robertso Coin
• Stubbs and Co

• Gold Refining Hedging or Trading
• Argor-Heraeus SA
• Metalor Tchnologies SA
• PAMP SA
• PX Precinox SA
• Valcambi SA

• Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale
• AR AR Jewellery Inc
• Aurafin LLC
• Baume Mercier
• Boite DOr Gioielli S.R.L.
• Carrera y Carrera
• CJ Jewelry
• CendresMeacutetaux SA
• Christian Bernard
• Colormasters Gem Corp
• Cristofol Paris

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Responsible Jewellery Council Members
Current membership is approximately 90
organisations.
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But there are 100s of thousands of businesses
involved
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Are these people trading ethically?
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Rules Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules Regulations are complex.
Rules Regulations are moderate and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules Regulations are simple and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.
WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
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Are they ethical traders?
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1200 Members
If one third of members agreed to join CIBJOs
Ethical Trade System, then it would raise
200,000 revenue annually if the cost of joining
was 500 US per business.
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The local organisation can administer the running
of the Ethical Trade system within its country or
region. CIBJO-world jewllery confederation, can
oversee the local approved organisations and also
arrange third party verification through
responsible auditors.
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Codes of Ethics contain rules by which members
must abide.
Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work

• International Colored Gemstone Association
• Thai Gem Jewellery Traders Association
• Gemological Institute of America
• Gemmological Association of Australia
• Jewellers Association of Australia
• Japan Jewellery Association
• American Gem Trade Association
• The Gemmological Association of Great Britain
• British Jewellers Association
• ETC

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Dont set the bar too high initially.
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World Jewellery Confederation
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Entry or Benchmark level
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Awarded to members whose standards are high.
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Highest level- may require donations to a
charitable fund
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Rules Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules Regulations are complex.
Rules Regulations are moderate and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules Regulations are simple and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.


WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
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Rules Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules Regulations are complex.
Rules Regulations are moderate and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules Regulations are simple and rules for
Ethical Trade already exist.
WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
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The people who suffer on the mines cant afford
to wait too long -lets work together to try and
make Ethical Trade a reality.