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Textiles is the premier industry & backbone of Pakistan'

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Textiles is the premier industry & backbone of Pakistan's Economy: ... These are as under: WALMART. NIKE. CARRFOUR. KOHLS. JCPENNY etc. 34 ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

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Title: Textiles is the premier industry & backbone of Pakistan'


1
Workshop on the role of International
Standards in Economic Development
Use of Standards in the Textile Sector and the
Challenges for the SMEs
  • Presentation by
  • The Pakistan Permanent Mission to the WTO

2
Pakistan textile industry
HOW DOES THE SYSTEM WORK?
HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS?
3
Pakistan textile industry
  • Textiles is the premier industry backbone of
    Pakistans Economy
  • Major Agrarian industrial sector.
  • Generates about 60 of exports
  • Constitutes 46 of Manufacturing Industry
  • Employs 38 of countrys work force
  • Contributes 8.5 to the total GDP
  • Major products are cotton yarn, fabrics, bed
    wear, towels, woven knit garments.
  • Drives Banking, Shipping ,Transport ,Insurance,
    Machinery, Dyes/Chemicals ,Printing/Packaging
    allied sectors.

4
Composition of Pakistan textile exports
Textile exports (2007-08) US10.777 Blns
5
SMEs the backbone of economy
  • Role in the Textile Industry
  • Involved at processing, stitching and various
    levels of the value chain
  • Labour intensive work therefore trained manpower
    and quality control mechanisms are extremely
    important
  • Case study of a Company and two clusters of SMEs

6
Buyers Standards
Industry specific Standards
International Standards
Only possible with full compliance
SME
Desire to connect with Int. market
National Regulatory Framework
7
Evolution of quality control regime in Pakistan
Quality control and standardization institutional
framework exists since early 50s, few year after
independence in 1947. The various components of
this institutional arrangement were
  • Pakistan Standards Institution (PSI)
  • Central Testing Laboratory (CTL)
  • Metallurgical and Industrial Research Development
    Centre (MIRDC)

8
Evolution of quality control regime in
Pakistan Current structure established in 1996
M/o Science and Technology
Standards Development Centre (SDC) former PSI
PNAC
Technical Services Centre (TSC) former MIRDC
Quality Control Centre (QCC) former CTL
9
Pakistans global affiliation
  • Signature of MOUs MRAs in the fields of
    Science Technology, Standardization,Quality
    Assurance/Management, Product Certification and
    exchange of technical information, human resource
    development and capacity building to achieve the
    objectives of TBT Agreement
  • A) Between governments
  • Pakistan and the sovereign Governments of Saudi
    Arabia, Morocco, Algeria, Sri Lanka
  • B) PSQCA and another standardization bodies
  • PSQCA and Turkish Standards Institution (TSE).
  • PSQCA and Yemen Authority for Specification,
    Standardization and Quality Control (YASSC).
  • MRA signed with SASO, ASTM International USA, DIN
    Germany, ANSI

10
Pakistans global affiliation (Continued)
  • C) Affiliation in progress between
  • Pakistan and the sovereign Governments of Asia
    Cooperation Dialogue (ACD) Countries, Brunei
    Darussalam, Sultanate of Oman, Republic of South
    Africa, Kingdom of Jordan, Republic of India,
    Malaysia, Russian Federation, Kingdom of Norway,
    Peoples Republic of China
  • PSQCA and SIRIM QAS International, Malaysia.
  • PSQCA and Bangladesh Standards Testing
    Institution (BSTI).

11
Institutional and regulatory support by the
Government to protect environment
  • National Conservation Strategy (NCS) adopted in
    1992
  • The Environmental Protection Ordinance of 1983
    was replaced by a new Act of Parliament in 1997
    i.e. Pakistan Environmental Protection Act 1997
  • The federal government offered incentives of
    reduction in customs duties on import of anti
    pollution equipment

12
Pakistan National Accreditation Council
  • Mission Statement
  • PNAC strives for improvement, competence and
    integrity of conformity assessment bodies by
    providing them an internationally recognized
    accreditation service and also promote quality
    culture, which ultimately benefit the consumers,
    producers, regulators and other stakeholders.
  • International Linkages
  • PNAC represents Pakistan in the following
    regional and international forum
  • International Laboratory Accreditation
    Cooperation (ILAC)
  • International Accreditation Forum (IAF)
  • Asia Pacific Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation
    (APLAC)
  • Pacific Accreditation Cooperation (PAC)

13
There is cooperation between accreditation bodies
in international organisations
Pakistan PNAC
14
How does the system work?
15
  • A case study of a Company looked at the following
    aspects of quality which can be achieved through
    ISO 9000 certification
  • Increase in productivity
  • Trained manpower
  • Quality of raw material
  • Calibration of machines
  • Maintenance of machines
  • Quality productivity
  • Minimum hard waste
  • Minimum wastage in weaving
  • Minimum wastage in processing
  • Minimum wastage in cutting
  • Minimum wastage in stitching packing
  • Minimum time for tea break
  • Minimum time for lunch break
  • Minimum time waste during prayer
  • Energy saving
  • Water wastages
  • Leakage in pipe joint

16
Management requirements
17
Technical requirements
18
(No Transcript)
19
A company before and after ISO9000 certification
Wastages Before After Raw material to
furnishing 25 6 Water
30
5 Energy
20 Nil Man hour loss due to
machinery breakage 15
Nil Result Increase in exports 2004-05 US
110,539,384 2005-06 US 125,360,094 2006-07 US
126,068,016
20
Survey of 2 clusters in Lahore and Faisalabad
  • Conformity assessment checked for testing,
    certification, calibration, accreditation.
  • Positive co-relation found between percentage
    share of exports and deployment of qualified
    staff for in-house testing and quality control.

Testing
  • 28 tests carried on textile products quality of
    colour fastness, Ezoyd stuff, shrinking, yarn
    test, cracking, abri colour etc.
  • High level of awareness almost 80 in house
    testing facility available to 37.
  • Foreign laboratories used on the demand of buyer
    only .
  • Use of local laboratories is common
  • The level of satisfaction from local
    laboratories was quite high in terms of
    infrastructure, affordability, acceptability and
    service delivery.
  • Testing cost and time was a major concern for
    smaller firms
  • Testing lab in Pakistan SGS, ATS, PCSIR,
    Intertek, Microtech, Tech Dyeing, T.T.I, I.T.S .

21
Certification
Survey of 2 clusters in Lahore and Faisalabad
(Continued)
ISO 9000, ISO14000, ISO22000, WRAP, BSCI,
OEKO-TEX, EALO, SA8000
High awareness level, ISO 9000 was identified as
the most important, ISO 14000 as the second most
important. Certifications were through locally
based foreign certification bodies.
Calibration
Awareness level 88.6 , time taken was 1.94
however time was around 8-9 days for using
facilities outside the city
Joint Branding

50 already involved in joint branding, 43
interested in joint branding- It brings premium
price therefore an incentive for ensuring
compliance
22
Fields of determinations requested
  • A. Care Label Instructions
  • Many countries have mandatory or voluntary
    standards for care label instructions that apply
    to either apparel or soft home furnishing
    products.
  • Colourfastness to bleaching
  • Dimensional stability
  • Appearance retention
  • Ironing
  • (EU US joint proposal on textile labelling in
    NAMA negotiation is supported by Pakistan)

23
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
  • B. Performance Testing
  • To meet specific performance standards that
    affect end use consumer of textile products, a
    variety of tests are required. Some of these
    tests includes
  • Dimensional Stability to Washing and/or
    Dry-cleaning
  • Colourfastness to Light, Crocking (Rubbing),
    Washing, Bleaching, etc
  • Physical tests Strength, Abrasion, Pilling
    Resistance, etc
  • Chemical Tests Finish Analysis, pH, etc

24
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
  • C. Eco Textile Testing
  • The trend of green consumerism has been extended
    to textile and apparel products. Major European
    and USA textile product buyers have responded to
    this public awareness by viewing their textile
    products from an ecological viewpoint and are
    establishing relevant requirements. Chemical
    analysis for Eco-Testing includes
  • Banned Azo Colorants
  • Formaldehyde Content
  • Heavy Metal Residues
  • Dye testing to carcinogenic compounds
  • Pesticide Residue

25
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
D. FLAMMABILITY TESTING For apparel, it is
especially important that the material used are
in compliance with the flammability regulations.
In particular, adult apparel and childrens
sleeper.
26
ROLE OF SMES IN PAKISTAN
  • About 3.2 million business establishments exist
    in Pakistan.
  • Out of which 99 are SMEs.
  • They contribute 30 to GDP and 25 to export.

27
Recommendations
  • Harmonization of all private standards
  • Harmonization of private standards with
    international standards where ever possible
  • Cluster development of SMEs through 3 C approach
    Competitive cluster ? conformity? connectivity
    with the market
  • Incentives from the national governments to
    promote compliance, i.e. duty free import of
    equipment, tax breaks, exemption from sales tax,
    national reward system and SME of the year etc.

28
Recommendations (Continued)
  • Best use of Aid for Trade (Skill development,
    mobile vans with training equipment,
    strengthening of testing labs-chemicals.
  • Effective participation of SME sector in the
    standard setting process
  • Effective implementation of special and
    differential treatment provisions (article 12 of
    TBT) for developing countries
  • See things in a context, ban on trade is not a
    solution . Country specific solutions is another
    option.
  • Promote public-private investment in testing
    laboratories.

29
WTO Agreement On TBT
  • Buyers standards
    Industry specific standards

  • International standards
  • SME
  • Technical
  • Assistance to achieve
  • compliance
  • Aid for Trade
  • National Regulatory Framework

Only possible with full compliance
Connected with the International market
30
THANK YOU
31
List of Test required by buyers
32
List of Test required by buyers
33
List of Test required by buyers
34
  • Besides International Standards some private
    Standards are also incorporated making the things
    more complicated. These are as under
  • WALMART
  • NIKE
  • CARRFOUR
  • KOHLS
  • JCPENNY etc.
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