Winds and Waves

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Winds and Waves
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How are waves Created?
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How are waves created?

• 1. Wind creates most waves.
• Rogue waves are where high winds and strong
  currents create a single large wave. Some have
  been recorded at 115 feet high.

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How are waves Created?

• 2. Seismic Sea Waves, these are called Tsunamis
  created by Earth quakes, volcanoes and
  landslides.

http//www.youtube.com/watch?vRDOuwMj7Xzosafety_
modetruepersist_safety_mode1
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2004 Tsunami
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Tsunami Waves

• Tsunami waves do not resemble normal sea waves,
  because their wavelength is far longer. Rather
  than appearing as a breaking wave, a tsunami may
  instead initially resemble a rapidly rising tide.

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Tsunami Yes/No
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Types of Wind Driven Waves

• The way each wave breaks depends on the slope and
  shape of the bottom.

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Wind driven waves

• Height of the wave driven is determined by wind
  speeds.
• Hurricane Sandy

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Tides

• http//science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/ear
  th/geophysics/tide-cause.htm
• http//oceanlink.island.net/oinfo/tides/tides.html
  
• http//milesmathis.com/tide.html
• http//www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t2039
  86

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Cuomo

• http//www.nytimes.com/2013/02/04/nyregion/cuomo-s
  eeking-home-buyouts-in-flood-zones.html?_r0

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What do waves do?

• http//abclocal.go.com/wabc/video?id7358667
• After the video Describe what effect waves have.
  __________________________________________________
  ____

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Wave Action

• What happened based on wave action_____________

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Not Wave Action

• South Shore beaches are a fine outwash sand left
  by the glacier

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Not Wave Action

• The North Shore beaches are rocky from the
  remaining glacial debris

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Wave Action on Rocky Shores

• Sea Caves
• Sea Arches

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Wave Action on Sandy Shores
Fire Island
Sand Bars are created by wave action
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Wave Action on Sandy Shores

• Waves build or remove sand. In 1970 we (LI) built
  Jetties to combat this. Has this helped? (Use
  the picture below to help)_____________
• ___________________________

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Answer

• No jetties do not work. The result is that sand
  is deposited on the updrift side, depriving the
  downdrift side of sand.
• Fixing long Island beaches
• http//www.myfoxny.com/dpp/good_day_ny/long-island
  -beach-erosion-20100401

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Why is it important to fix our beaches?

• People vs animals

Basking shark washed up on Babylon beach summer
of 2009
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What lives by/on the beach?
Marine Mammals Seals migrate in Jan-April on
our Beaches Welcome backs seals over 4,000 On
Long Island
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Shore birds

• Piping Plover

Snowy Owl Smiths Point
Common Tern
Others include Herons, Osprey, Egrets, Shore
Birds Purple Sandpipers, Snow Bunting,
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Invertebrates
Fiddler Crabs
Worms living In the sand
Horseshoe Crab
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Invertebrates
Barnacles
Mussels
Snails
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Parts of the beach

• Because of the daily rise and fall of the tides
  each day, there are clear differences in
  horizontal sections of beach from the water line
  up towards the dunes

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Parts of the beachDifferent Zones

• HIGH TIDE ZONE This zone gets occasional wave
  action
• MIDDLE TIDE ZONE This zone is systematically
  washed by the advancing and retreating tides.
• LOW TIDE ZONE This zone is rarely exposed to the
  air. Sand within it is constantly moving due to
  wave action.

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Parts of the beach

• The classification of different beach areas are
  important because they limit what organisms can
  survive in that section or zone of the shoreline.
• ,