Title: FASH 15 textiles
1FASH 15 textiles yarn classification
2yarns contribute significantly to fabric and
product performance selection affects the
fabrics hand, appearance, drape, durability,
comfort many other areas of performance
3- fiber length
- spun yarncomposed of short-staple fibers that
are twisted or otherwise bonded together fuzzy
yarn with protruding ends - filament yarncomposed of long fibers grouped
together or slightly twisted - smooth filament yarnsstraight, almost parallel
fibers - textured-bulk-filament yarnsuniformly bulky
4- yarn twist
- twist
- spiral arrangement of fibers around yarns axis
- produced by rotating one end while holding the
other stationary - binds fibers together contributes to strength
- Specified by number of turns per unit
lengthturns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter
(tpm) - direction
5- yarn twist
- amount of twist
- low twistused to maintain integrity within
smooth, multi-filament yarns 1-2 turns per inch - napping twistlofty spun yarns used in filling
yarns of napped fabrics - average twistmost common for staple fiber yarns
most durable spun yarns - hard twistharsher hand more turns per inch
- crepe yarnshighest tpi 40-80 twist kink when
removed from fabric
6- yarn size
- yarn numbersize or fineness
- filament yarnsweight per unit length
- spun yarnslength per unit weight generally the
finer the yarn, the larger the number - denier system
- describes yarn size using filament fibers
- weight in grams per 9,000 meters
- tex system
- determines yarn number in the same way for all
yarns - weight in grams per 1,000 meters
7- yarn regularity
- describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout
its length in terms of appearance structure - simple yarns
- alike in all its parts
- spun or filament yarn
- single yarn
- one strand
- simplest type
8yarn regularitysimple yarns ply yarn made by
second twisting operation that combines two or
more singles cord made by third twisting
operation which twists ply yarns
together rope heavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm
or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or
braided together
9- yarn regularitysewing embroidery thread
- sewing thread
- yarn intended for stitching materials together
- available in broad range of sizes structures
- often finished with lubricant or wax
- most sewing thread is S twist
- embroidery thread
- yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns
on textile surface - most often 2-ply, Z twist
10- yarn regularityfancy yarns
- yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are
irregular at intervals - irregularities may be subtle or very obvious
- intervals may be regular or random
- classified according to number of parts
- named for effect that dominates fabric
11yarn regularityfancy yarns
12- yarn regularityfancy yarns
- tweed yarn
- slub yarn
- spiral or corkscrew
- ratine yarns
- knot, spot, nub, or knop
- spike or snarl
- loop, curl or boucle yarn
- metallic
- chenille
- braided
- knit
- stitched
13- yarn regularitycomposite yarns
- have both staple-fiber filament fiber
components - include
- covered yarnscentral yarn completely covered by
fiber or another yarn - core-spun yarnsspun sheath of staple fibers
around a core - filament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)have staple
fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibers - multi-polymer yarnsproduced by pressing staple
fibers of any length or generic class in molten
polymer stream - fasciated yarnsgrouping of filament fibers
wrapped with staple fibers
14- yarn performance yarn quality
- identified and measured so that appropriate yarn
is used in fabric product - standard test methods determine
- yarn size
- twist
- bulk
- evenness
- appearance
- performance
- yarn quality refers to various factors such as
strength and uniformitymore parallel fibers,
tighter twist, more regular
15- participation activity
- fancy yarns identification
- using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the
following types of fancy yarns - tweed yarn
- slub yarn
- spiral or corkscrew
- ratine yarns
- knot, spot, nub, or knop
- spike or snarl
- select 7 different fancy yarns from yarn grab
bag - mount them to your yarn identification sheet
- identify them using the text and complete the
information required
- loop, curl or boucle yarn
- metallic
- chenille
- braided
- knit
- stitched