Organic Viticulture: From Vine to Wine

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Organic ViticultureFrom Vine to Wine
The InnovatorsNovember 2, San Francisco

• Carolyn Ross, Ph.D.
• Assistant Professor, Food Science and Human
  Nutrition
• College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural
  Resource Sciences
• John Reganold, Ph.D.
• Regents Professor, Crop and Soil Sciences
• College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural
  Resource Sciences

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Wine Sensory Science

• Carolyn Ross
• Assistant Professor, Food Science and Human
  Nutrition
• Teaching Faculty, Viticulture and Enology
• College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural
  Resource Sciences

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Wine Tasting

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What is Taste?

• Difficult to describe
• Taste is largely a learnedexperience
• Tasting wine is a quest for quality
• More than personal preference needs to be
  expressed
• Tasting is both an art and science

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Tasting Sequence
Visual
Olfactory (Smell)
Tactile (Touch)
Taste (Gustatory)
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Visual Aspects

• General appearance
• Clarity/freedom from suspended material
• Condition of the surface (meniscus)
• Color(hue-shade and depth-brightness)
• Practical points
• Natural lighting better
• Tilt against white background
• Equal fill in each glass

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Red Wine Color
B
C
A
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White Wine Color
A
B
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Wine Odor

• Power of the sniff
• Perception
• Grouped by origin or specific events
• Difficult to use unfamiliar terms
• Swirling
• Increase wine surface area
• Releases volatiles from wine

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Wine Odor

• Complexity
• Intensity
• Can smell wine better in mouththan in glass
• Wine Aroma Exercise
• Smell the 2 pieces of filter paperin front of
  you
• Can you identify/describe the aroma?
• Does it remind you of anevent / experience?

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In-mouth Impressions

• Tastes acidity, sweetness, bitterness
• Tactile viscosity, texture, gassiness, hotness
• Two sets of chemoreceptors in mouth
• Taste receptor neurons
• Mouthfeel free nerve endings
• Combine to produce flavor!

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Gustatory Sensitivity
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Taste

• Sweet
• White bone dry, dry, medium dry,medium sweet,
  sweet, very sweet
• Red bone dry, dry, medium dry,medium sweet
• Bitter
• More prominent in wine finish
• Sour (acidity)
• Green/tart, crisp, flabby/flat, cloying

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Mouthfeel

• Astringency
• Rough, drying, puckering feeling
• May be confused with bitterness
• Slow to develop
• Intensity and duration increases with repeat
  sampling
• Burning ethanol

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Overall Impressions

• Finish (short vs. long)
• Balance of tastes
• Sweetness and acidity (sourness)
• Balance of sensations
• Body balances astringency
• Heat (alcohol) balances tartness (acidity)
• Assess wine typicality and quality

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Wine Tasting

• Base Wine (reference)
• Sample A, sample B, sample C
• Note
• Where do you detect the sensations?
• Are you able to identify the sensations?

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Sensory Evaluation

• Human senses most thorough analytical devices
  available
• scientific discipline used to evoke, measure,
  analyze, and interpret reactions to the
  characteristics of foods and materials as they
  are perceived by the senses of sight, smell,
  taste, touch, and hearing

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Applications of Sensory Science

• Difference testing
• Preference testing
• Hedonic
• Willingness to purchase
• Time intensity
• Descriptive analysis

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Astringency Study

• Astringency defined as drying, puckering
  sensation
• Critical sensory attribute of red wine
• Objective
• Examine relationship between chemical results and
  sensory perception of astringency

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Tannin Concentrations inWashington State Red
Wines
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Relationship Between Chemistryand Sensory of Red
Wines
Perceived Astringency
Wine Tannin Grouping
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Consumer Preference for Winesof Different
Astringency Values
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Effect of Wine Temperatureon Sensory Perception

• Folklore about serving temperatures for wine
• No scientific studies have shown optimal serving
  temperatures
• Objective
• Determine the effect of serving temperature on
  sensory perception of specific attributes in
  white and red wine

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Effect of Temperature onPerception of White Wine

• Consumer Panel
• Commercial Pinot Grigio
• 4C (39F), 10C (50F), 18C (64F)
• Trained White Wine
• Acidity, sweetness, aroma
• Trained Red Wine
• Bitterness, astringency, aroma
• 14C (57 F), 18C (64 F), 23C (72 F)

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Consumer Panel Effect of Temperatureon
Perception of White Wine
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Trained Panel Effect of Temperatureon
Perception of White Wine
Intensity
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Trained Panel Effect of Temperatureon
Perception of Red Wine
Intensity
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Effect of Multicolored Asian Ladybeetle (MALB) on
Red Wine

• Release compoundsof olfactory significance
• Attributes
• Aroma floral/fruity, musty/earthy, vegetal
• Flavor green pepper, earthy, sour, bitter
• Lingering mouthfeel

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Effect of Ladybeetles on Red Wine

• Aroma
• Tainted wine lower in floral/fruity,higher in
  musty/earthy
• Untainted wine more preferred
• Flavor
• Tainted wine higher in green pepper, sourness
• Tainted wine lower in lingering mouthfeel

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Other Wine Studies

• Organic and biodynamic wines
• Effect of fining on chemical and sensory
  properties of white wines
• Effect of alcohol consumption on perception of
  sensory attributes
• Effect of alcohol content of wineon sensory
  attributes
• Enological studies

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Conclusions

• Many facets to sensory evaluation research
• Numerous studies being conducted in sensory
  facilities at WSU

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Questions?

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Moving Toward Sustainability Organically Grown
Food and Wine

• John Reganold, Ph.D.
• Regents Professor of Soil ScienceDepartment of
  Crop and Soil SciencesCollege of Agricultural,
  Human, and Natural Resource Sciences

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Organic Farming

• It virtually excludes the use of agrochemicals by
  relying on crop rotations, green manures,
  compost, natural fertilizers and pesticides,
  biological pest controls,mechanical
  cultivation,and modern technologies.

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Who Buys Organic?

• About two-thirds of U.S. consumers purchased
  organic foods and beverages in 2005.
• Most buy organic to cut their exposureto
  chemicals in the foods they eat.
• Many buy organic to support its producers
  environmentally friendly practices.
• Many buy organic food because they believeit is
  more nutritious or of higher quality.
• Some buy organic because they thinkit tastes
  better.

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Size of Organics in U.S.

• Organic food and beverage sales have grown
  between 16 and 25 percent each year since 1991.
• Total food sales over this time period have grown
  in the range of only 2 to 4 percent a year.
• Organic food and beverage sales (16.7 billion)
  in 2006 represented nearly 3 of U.S. food sales
  (up from 0.8 in 1997).
• The organic food sector introduces 1500 new
  products each year.
• Organic acreage was at slightly more than4
  million acres in 2005.

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Organic Market and Consumptionin Europe

• In 2004, Germany had the top salesof organic
  products in Europe, exceeding 3 billion.
• Denmark and Austria had organic sectors with the
  highest shares6 and 5 of their total food
  markets.
• The UK organic food/beverage market grew from
  100 million in 1994 to1.2 billion in 2004.

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Organics and theState of Washington

• In 1985, the Washington State Legislature passed
  the Organic Food Products Act, which led to the
  establishment of the Organic Food Program.
• This program, begun in 1988 within the Washington
  State Department of Agriculture, certifies
  organic products within Washington State.
• From 1983-2002, Washington State experienced more
  than a six-fold increasein organic acreage.

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At Washington State University . . .

• One of the first organic studies (1979) was done
  by David Holland and Stephen Kraten during the
  1970s energy crisis to see whether organic grain
  production mightbe less energy intensive.
• In 1980, Robert Papendick led the USDA Study Team
  that published the 94-page Report and
  Recommendations on Organic Farming.

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More at WashingtonState University . . .

• In 1991, the Washington State Legislature created
  the Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural
  Resources to promote healthy farms, food, and
  people through research, extension, and teaching
  programs.
• In 2002, the Center published a surveyof organic
  research and education at WSUthat identified
  almost 50 faculty and staffwho were involved in
  organic researchand education projects.

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Organic Agriculture Major

• First such major in theUnited States
• Open for enrollment Fall 2006
• Science-based and hands-on curriculum

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WSU Organic TeachingFarm and CSA
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What do studies comparing organic and
conventional farming systems tell us?

• Soil quality
• Crop yield and quality
• Financial performance
• Environmental quality
• Energy efficiency
• Social justice

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Apple Field Study

• Yakima County, Washington
• Replicated, on-farm
• ORG, INT, CON
• Soil topography identical
• Cultivars
• Golden Delicious (1994-1999)
• Gala (1999-2003)
• Grower/scientist managed

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Reganold, JP, JD Glover, PK Andrews, HR Hinman.
2001. Sustainability of three apple production
systems.Nature 410926-930.

• Soil quality
• Crop quality
• Farm profitability
• Environmental risks of pesticides
• Energy efficiency

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Conclusions(in first 6 years)

• Organic and integrated systems had highersoil
  quality and potentially lower negative
  environmental impact
• Yields and tree growth were similar, but organic
  fruit were smaller
• Organic fruit were sweeter and as firm or firmer
• Organic system was more profitable
• Organic system was more energy efficient
• Organic system ranked first in overall
  sustainability, integrated second, and
  conventional last

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More Conclusions (all 10 years)

• ORG apples were smaller
• ORG apples were as firm or firmer
• ORG apples had higher antioxidant activity
• ORG apples stored better
• ORG apples were generally preferredby consumers

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Strawberry Field Study

• Monterey Santa Cruz counties, CA
• Paired ORG/CON farms
• 5 pairs in 2004
• 8 pairs in 2005
• Soils topographies matchedfor each pair
• Cultivars
• Diamante
• San Juan
• Lanai

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All Studies Soil Quality

• Organic systems have better biological and
  physical soil quality.
• Organically farmed soils have more humus (more
  carbon) and can store more water and longer,
  which is particularly effective in ensuring
  higher yields during lengthier dry periods in the
  summer.
• Organic farmers build healthy soils--through
  broad crop rotations, green manures, composts--to
  grow healthy plants and to sustain a stable food
  supply.
• Lands farmed organically are healthier for
  passing on to the next generation.

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All Studies Crop Yields

• Comparing the productivity of organic and
  conventional farming depends on soil and climate
  conditions and on choice of crops being compared.
  
• Under less favorable soil conditions or under
  drought conditions, organically managed crop
  yields generally are equal or greater than those
  from conventional agriculture.
• Under favorable climate and soil conditions,
  organic crop yields are generally 10 to 20
  percent lower compared to conventional crop
  yields.
• Research shows that increasing yields in organic
  wheat systems through breeding will require
  direct selection within organic (not
  conventional) systems.

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All Studies Crop Quality

• Little to no pesticide residues are foundon
  organic foods.
• Organic production has been shown to increase
  vitamin C, antioxidant activity,and some
  minerals.
• Other important factors are dry weight, nutrient
  density, and sensory evaluations (taste,
  appearance).
• Bottom line organic farming produces adequate to
  high yields of very good quality.

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All Studies Economic Performance

• Transition years for organic growerscan be
  economically challenging andmore information
  intensive.
• After transition period, the economic net return
  per acre for organic farms is often equal or
  higher than for conventional farms because of
  good yields and price premiums.
• Labor costs are usually higher in organic than in
  conventional farming systems.

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All Studies Environmental Quality

• Environmental benefits of organic agriculture
  include enhanced sequestration of carbonin the
  soil and less soil erosion and degradation.
• Organic systems are more energy efficient.For
  example, for grain systems, fossil energy inputs
  for organic systems are generally more than 30
  lower than for conventional systems.
• Organic systems have higher below- and
  above-ground biodiversity and lower pesticide and
  nutrient pollution to aquatic and marine systems.

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Global Data for Organic Winegrowing
Source Biofach, 2004
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Organically Grown Wine Trends

• In the U.S., organically grown wines grewby 28
  percent in 2005 to 80 million.
• Total U.S. wine sales were 20.8 billion in 2005.
• Conventional winegrape growers are increasingly
  reducing their use of agrochemicals and becoming
  organic, biodynamic, or sustainable producers.
• Winemakers are recognizing a significant
  improvement in wine quality from these practices.

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Sustainability Movements

• California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (Code
  of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices).
• Oregon Wine Board (Salmon-Safe ProgramLow Input
  Viticulture and Enology or LIVE).
• Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers
  (Washington Vinea Trust Vinewise).
• Some winegrape growers produce organically
  without getting certified.

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Confusion for Wine Consumers

• Two categories for organic winesin the U.S.
• Wine produced from organically grown grapes has
  sulfites added (lt 100 ppm)in the winemaking
  process and therefore cannot be considered true
  organic wine.
• Organic Wine is produced from grapes grown
  organically AND has no sulfites added in the
  wine-making process.

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What are Sulfites?

• When used in winemaking, manufactured sulfites
  are added as sulfur salts or sulfur dioxide
  solutions to the juice before fermentation until
  bottling.
• Sulfites are used by the winemaker principally as
  a preservative and a disinfectant.
• The term sulfites is used on wine labels(as in
  contains sulfites) as an inclusiveterm for
  free sulfur dioxide, sulfurous acid, bisulfite
  ion, sulfite ion, and some formsof complexed
  sulfites.

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McNab Ranch Study(Reeve et al., 2005)

• Measure the effects of the biodynamic preps on
  soil and winegrape quality
• McNab Ranch 170 hectares (420 acres)
• 61 hectares (150 acres) in winegrapes
• Certified organic from 1994-1996
• Began transition to biodynamicsin 1996
• Demeter certified in 1997

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McNab Study Area Design

• In 1996, 8 plots on 5 hectares (12 acres) were
  delineated
• Merlot grapes (grafted on 5C rootstock)
• Spacing 6 within rows, 8 between rows
• Two treatments Biodynamic a Control (no preps)
• Randomized, complete block design

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Applying 500
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McNab Ranch Study Findings

• No differences were found in soil qualityin the
  first six years.
• Leaf tissue nutrient analyses, clusters per vine,
  yield per vine, cluster weight, and berry weight
  showed no differences at the end of 7 years.
• Yields/PW ratios indicated that BD vinesmay be
  more balanced than Control vines.
• Biodynamic winegrapes had higher tanninsin 2002
  and higher tannins, brix, total phenols, and
  total anthocyanins in 2003.

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McNab Ranch Study Findings

• Enologix data showed an increase in grape
  qualityin both systems, from fair to good in
  2000 to world class in 2003.
• These changes correlate with ceasing weekly
  irrigation, reducing yields by thinning starting
  in 2001, and postponing harvest.

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Vineyard Planning

• Site assessment
• Winegrape variety and rootstock selection
• Site preparation and planning
• Vine architecture and training systems

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Vineyard Management

• Canopy Management
• Winegrape Quality
• Water Management
• Soil Management
• Weed Management
• Disease Management
• Insect Management

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How Good is the Wine?

• In a blind taste-test of 10 pairs of wines
  produced from biodynamically and conventionally
  grown grapes, the wines from biodynamic grapes
  were judged to be of higher quality in 8 out of
  the 10 pairs by seven professional sommeliers and
  wine writers.
• Only one of the wines from conventional grapes
  was judged superior to its biodynamic
  counterpart one pair resulted in a tie.

Reilly, J.K. 2004. Fortune. 150(4)34-36.
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Questions?

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• Coming Up
• The Innovators lecture series
• Fall 2007

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Its a Small World,After AllInternational
Outreach Stretches Around the Globe
The InnovatorsNovember 15, Seattle

• Christopher Pannkuk, Ph.D.
• Director, International Research and Development
• International Programs

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For more information www.theinnovators.wsu.edu To
ll free 877-978-3868

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