Garment Manufacturing Process & Quality Assurance

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Apparel Production Overview
Dilawar Shaikh
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Introduction
3
Introduction to Garment Manufacturing

• Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented
  activity with a great range of raw materials,
  product types, production volumes, supply chains,
  retail markets and associated technologies.
• Companies range from small family business to
  multinationals.
• The clothing industry is labour intensive
  industry.

4
Departments in garment manufacturing unit
5
Process flow in garment manufacturing unit
6
Merchandising department
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Process flow in merchandising department
8
Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Source http//www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-arti
cle/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.
asp
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Sampling department
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Responsibilities of sampling department

• Getting clarifications about style details from
  merchandiser.
• Checking patterns workability.
• Preparation of different samples and getting the
  buyers approval.
• Informing quality related problems, encountered
  during preparing samples, to QC.
• Minimizing operations and consumption.

11
Types of sample prepared
Source http//www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/60
9
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Types of sample prepared
Source http//www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/60
9
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Fabric store department
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• Functions of the fabric store department
• Receive the fabric as per Buyers Requirements
• Fabric inspection (four point system)
• Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour
  fastness etc.)
• Issue to the production department as per the
  requirement

15
Fabric audit procedure

• 10 random inspection for sampling or lining or
  net fabric.
• Inspection for production order fabric as per
  buyers requirement.
• Perform GSM cutting.
• Perform shrinkage test.
• Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
• Check fabric roll for the defects.
• Allocate points to the defects.

• The fabrics are checked for
• Width
• Shade (centre to selvedge)
• Weaving defects
• Shrinkage (steam fusing)

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Trims and accessories Store department
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• Functions of the trims and accessories department
• To receive incoming material.
• To check material for attribute variables.
• To arrange the incoming material in allocated
  racks.
• To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and
  production other material as per requirement.
• To maintain a record of incoming outgoing
  material.

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Spreading and cutting department
19
Spreading and cutting flow process
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Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads
Planning
Markers
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Machine
Ticketing
Preparation for sewing
Bundles
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Cut order planning

• It translates customer orders into cutting orders
• minimize total production costs
• meet deadlines
• seek most effective use of labor, equipment,
  fabric and space

23
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning

• Examining incoming orders and piece goods width
  and availability
• Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning
  procedures for marker making
• Determining whether file markers are available or
  new ones are needed
• Developing specifications for optimum marker
  making and fabric utilization
• Determine most effective use of spreading and
  cutting equipment and personnel
• Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and
  cutting

24
Cutting orders leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning
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Marker planning

• The results of cut order planning are cutting
  orders that direct marker planning and cut
  planning.
• The purpose of marker planning is to determine
  the most efficient combination of sizes and
  shades for each order and to produce the best
  fabric yield and equipment utilization.
• One cutting order may require several markers to
  achieve optimum efficiency.
• A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been
  prepared for cutting.
• Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting
  room labor and table space.
• Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by
• table length,
• type of equipment,
• spread length,
• spreading time and
• cutting time.

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• Marker
• is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
  pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be
  cut from a single spread.
• Marker making
• is the process of determining the most efficient
  layout of pattern pieces for a specified style,
  fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time,
  skill and concentration)

27
Marker making

• Marker making is a critical step in the
  manufacturing process.
• By retaining strict control over this critical
  step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as
  possible.
• It also ensures that the issues that affect
  quality will be given proper attention. These
  include placing patterns on grain, keeping
  patterns paired, and attending to details such as
  drill holes and notches.
• Depending on the relative efficiency of each
  marker produced, the company may save or waste
  thousands of dollars a year.

Source Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly
Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading,
Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing
Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
28
Marker making

• Markers types
• Blocks or Sections
• Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
  pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
  
• Continuous
• Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces
  for all sizes included in a single cutting.

Block or section marker
Continuous marker
29
Marker making

• Markers types
• Open marker
• Marker made with full pattern pieces.
• Closed marker
• Marker made with half garment parts pieces for
  laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).

Closed marker
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Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker making (CAD)
31
Marker making
Manual marker

• Created on marker paper or directly on fabric
  ply
• Tracing by pencil or tailors chalk.
• Time consuming.
• Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain
  line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
• Accuracy depends on individuals skill.

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Marker making
Computerised marker

• Accurate
• Shortest response time.
• Direct or digitized.
• Manipulate images to determine best
  utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
• Parameters (style ,size, etc.) for markers are
  entered into the computer.
• Can be printed/recalled/modified.
• Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used
  to determine fabric requirement.

33
Marker making

• Marker mode Nap/ One/ Way
• The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
  made with every pattern placed with the down
  direction of the pattern in the same direction.
• This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
  asymmetric.
• All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the
  down direction, which is usually toward the
  left edge (starting point where the legend is
  written).
• The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality
  but least efficient of the three nap directions
  for a marker.

Source Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly
Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading,
Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing
Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
34
Marker making

• Marker mode Nap/ Either/ Way
• The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W)
  is made where there is no restriction of which
  way the pattern are oriented.
• The patterns may be oriented either down or
  up, placed wherever they fit best, only making
  sure that the patterns are on-grain.
• The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
  efficient mode yielding the highest fabric
  utilization.

Source Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly
Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading,
Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing
Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
35
Marker making

• Marker mode Nap/ Up/ Down
• The Nap/ Up/ Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is
  more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but
  not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
• In order to get a better fit between the
  patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are
  oriented in opposite directions.
• This method is yields moderately good fabric
  utilization, and good quality.

Source Kahn, Cohen and Soto, Pre-Assembly
Processes The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading,
Cutting and Bundling, The Fashion Manufacturing
Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
36
Marker making
Marker Efficiency

• Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100
• Total area of the marker plan
• It is determined for fabric utilization
• Minimum waste

Factors affecting marker efficiency

• Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of
  design repeat etc.)
• Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces less
  flexibility)
• Grain requirements

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Spreading

• Spreading is the processes of superimposing
  lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
  table or specially designed surface in
  preparation for the cutting process
• Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric
  prepared for a single marker

• Requirement of spreading
• Shade sorting of cloth pieces
• Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
• Alignment of plies
• Correct ply tension
• Elimination of fabric faults
• Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading equipment

• Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum
  table)
• Spreading machines

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Spreading
Spreading equipment

• Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum
  table)
• Spreading machines

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Manual spreading

• In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from its
  package which, if it is a roll, may be supported
  by a frame and carried along the table where the
  end is secured by weights or by clamps.
• The operators work back from the end, aligning
  the edges and ensuring that there is no tension
  and that there are no wrinkles.

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Machine spreading

• Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from
  end to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a
  time on the spread.
• Spreading machines may include
• A motor to drive
• A platform on which the operator rides
• A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to
  hold the ends of ply in place
• A ply counter
• An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric
  edge guides
• A turntable
• A direct drive on the fabric support,
  synchronized with the speed of travel, to reduce
  or eliminate tension in the fabric being spread.

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Spreading

• Spreading Mode Nap one way face one way
  spreading
• Most common spreading method that can also be
  done manually.
• Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric
  end is being pulled by two spreading operators
  (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll)
  walking along both sides of cutting table.
• While using machine, the lose end of fabric is
  being held by catcher and machine carries the
  rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading
  the fabric in the process.
• Every layer has to start from same end thus
  spreading machine has to come back to starting
  position without spreading the fabric. This
  return movement of spreading machine is called as
  dead heading

Face one way
Nap one way
Source Prabir Jana, Spreading Cutting of
Apparel Products, 2005
44
Spreading

• Spreading Mode Nap either way face to face
  spreading
• The quickest spreading method while using
  spreading machine.
• Difficult to achieve manually.
• The machine carry the fabric roll while the end
  is being held in place by catcher, at layer end
  fabric is not cut just folded and held by another
  catcher while the fabric is being laid by the
  machine during its return movement also.

Face to face
Nap either way
Source Prabir Jana, Spreading Cutting of
Apparel Products, 2005
45
Spreading

• Spreading Mode Nap one-way face to face
  spreading
• Most time consuming method of spreading.
• The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher
  and machine carries the rolls along table thus
  unwinding and spreading the fabric in the
  process.
• At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable
  rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and return
  back to starting position without.
• Now from the starting end the second layer is
  being laid face to face.

Nap one way
Face to face
Source Prabir Jana, Spreading Cutting of
Apparel Products, 2005
46
Spreading

• Spreading Mode Nap either way face one way
  spreading
• The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher
  and machine carries the rolls along table thus
  unwinding and spreading the fabric in the
  process.
• At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable
  rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
  spreading the second layer from the opposite end
  face one way. There is no dead heading by the
  machine in this spreading mode.

Nap either way
Face one way
Source Prabir Jana, Spreading Cutting of
Apparel Products, 2005
47
Spreading
Spreading costs

• Labour cost
• Fabric waste
• Splicing loss
• End loss
• Width loss

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Cutting room
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Cutting
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Cutting
Manual cutting
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Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Power system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down movement
One way thrust as the circular blade makes
contact with the fabric
Straight knife
Round knife
Base plate
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Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Straight knife
Round knife

• Vertical blade
• Reciprocates up and down
• Corners and curves can be cut accurately
• Most versatile and commonly used
• Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
• Spread depth depends on blade length
• adjustable height of the blade guard
• All of the pieces cut from a lay are identical

• Popular, light and fast. 
• Suitable only for cutting in straight lines
• or very gradual curves, in depths of
• about 15cm
• Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
• bulky material, or lower lays of harder
• material such as shirts
• Small blade cuts single layer
• A round blade contacts the spread at
• an angle thus, the top ply is cut before
• the bottom ply

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Cutting
Stationary cutters Band knife

• Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band
• Fabric layers are guided by hand against the
  blade
• Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers
• Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage
• Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to
  300mm
• Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are
  cut
• precisely
• Band knives are more accurate for small blocks
  or for
• shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks

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Cutting
Stationary cutters Servo cutting

• Overhead servo motor
• Adjustable speed
• Suspension system that
• supports the knife perpendicular
• to the cutting table
• Knife is mounted on a swivel arm
• It combines vertical cutting and
• band knife cutting into one
• machine

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Cutting
Stationary cutters Die cutting

• Dies are pre shaped metal outlines
• Most accurate
• Die cutting operation involves
• Placement of fabric
• Positioning the die on the fabric
• Engaging the machine to press the die
• into the fabric
• Used mainly for leather, coated and laminated
• materials
• Areas where the same patterns are used over
• a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps

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Cutting
Stationary cutters Plasma cutting

• Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity
  jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
• Faster cutter of single plies
• High engineering and cost issues
• Problems same as for laser cutting
• Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity
  jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
• Faster cutter of single plies
• High engineering and cost issues

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Cutting
Stationary cutters Water jet cutting

• Very high velocity, fine stream of water
• High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears
  the fibers on impact
• As the jet penetrates successive plies in a
  spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
• ability is reduced ?frayed edges
• Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting
  quality
• Leather, plastic, vinyl
• High equipment costs

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Cutting

• Notches can be cut by straight knife too but
• accuracy is required
• Specialized notching equipment provides
• greater accuracy because a guide lines up the
  
• notcher with the cut edge
• Hot notcher consists of a heating element
• (blade) that slightly scorches the fibers
  adjacent
• to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
• Two types of notches
• Straight notch and V-notch

Position markers Notchers
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Cutting
Position markers Drills and thread markers

• Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a
  hole and spirit
• level
• Used for reference markers needed away from the
  edge of a
• garment part, e.g. position of pockets,
  darts, etc.
• A hole is drilled through the lay
• Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains
  visible until the sewing
• operator comes to use it
• Loose weave hot drill is used which slightly
  scorches or fuse
• the edges of the hole

• Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill leaves small
  deposit of paint on each ply of fabric
• ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by
  the construction of the garment

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Preparation for sewing

• Ticketing
• Tickets carry details style no, size,
• ply no, bundle no., date issued
• Operations may be incorporated for
• payment purposes, control of work
• and facilitating quality control

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Preparation for sewing
Bundling

• Small batches of garments move from one work
  station to another in a
• controlled way
• Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
• If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling
  system is done

Bundle ticket consists of

• Order no. 6015
• Bundle no. 1430
• Quantity 12
• Style no. 3145
• Size 12
• Section collar

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Sewing department
66
Sewing process flow
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Sewing department
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Sewing department

• Production system Make through system
• It is the traditional method of manufacture in
  which an operator makes right through
• one garment at a time.

Source ApparelKey.com
70
Sewing department

• Production system Conventional bundle system
• Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
• The work flows from the central (store) area to
  the first machine, from the first machine back to
  the store, and then on to the next machine, and
  so forth.
• A distributor stationed at the store is
  responsible for receiving and dispatching the
  work.
• The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
• These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or
  a bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped and
  tied.

Source ApparelKey.com
71
Sewing department

• Production system Clump system
• A worker collects a clump of materials from the
  worktable and carries out the first operation.
• After he has completed his part of the work, he
  returns it to the table.
• A worker for the second operation then continues
  the work and so on.
• The process is ' collection - work -return'
  continues until the whole garment has been
  assembled.

Source ApparelKey.com
72
Sewing department

• Production system Progressive bundle system
• Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
• Each operator receives a bundle, does his work,
  reties the bundle and passes it to the next
  operator.
• There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or
  table for storing the inter-process work between
  each operation.
• The work is routed by means of tickets.
• This system is the most widely used system in the
  garment industry today. It is used in shirt
  factories, jeans factories, jacket factories,
  etc.

Source ApparelKey.com
73
Sewing department

• Production system Flexible flow system
• A section of sewing operators, each with a supply
  of work in a rack at the side, work at an
  engineered work place.
• The machines are laid out in such a way that a
  flow of work can be planned using the correct
  number of operators in sequence.
• For style A garments, the work distributed after
  operation 1 can be distributed to the two
  operators performing operation 2. On completion,
  the work from both workers is then sent to
  operator 3. After operation 3, the work is
  continued by the two operators performing
  operation 4 and so on.
• When a new style is to be loaded on to the
  system, the number of operators needed for each
  operation must be planned in detail to ensure a
  balanced output.

Source ApparelKey.com
74
Sewing department

• Production system Straight line system
• The manufacturing process is broken down into
  several operations, which take the same time to
  complete.
• Groups of operators are required to handle only
  individual garments.
• The garment parts pass from one operator to the
  next, until the garment has been completely made
  up by one group of operators.
• The central distribution unit may be a fixed
  table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be set
  to suit the cycle time).

Source ApparelKey.com
75
Sewing department

• Production system Synchro flow system
• Garment parts of the same size and color are
  processed separately.
• Different garment parts can be processed
  simultaneously for assembling.
• At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs,
  pockets, etc., from other lines also go down a
  central line.
• The different garment parts are then processed
  together to form completed garments.

Source ApparelKey.com
76
Sewing department

• Production system Unit production system
• A unit production system (UPS) is a
  computer-controlled production line.
• It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead
  transport system to move individual units from
  work-station to work station for assembly.
• All the parts for a single garment are advanced
  through the production line together by means of
  a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead
  conveyor.
• Production operations are completed without
  removing the parts from the carrier.
• Automated materials handling replaces the
  traditional system of bundling, tying and
  untying, and manually moving garment parts.
• Electronic data can be collected from
  workstations, which provides payroll and
  inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and
  costing and performance data for prompt decision.
  

Source ApparelKey.com
77
Sewing department

• Production system Modular manufacturing system
• Modular manufacturing groups operators into
  teams, or modules.
• The team works on one/a few garment at a time
  instead of a bundle of garments.
• The operators stand /sit at their stations and
  rotate to different machines as they work,
  becoming familiar with multiple steps in
  producing the garment.

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Sewing Machine
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw
Stitch regulator
Take-up lever
Tension discs/check-spring
Needle bar
Reversing lever
Needle
Throat plate
Needle guard
Machine bed
Presser foot
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Sewing Machine
Needle Bar
Needle
Throat plate
Needle Eye
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
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Sewing Machine
Stitch forming devices
Stitch Device used
Lock stitch Bobbin hook
Chain stitch Looper
Over lock Looper and spreader
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Sewing Machine
The bobbin of a lock stitch machine
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Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Raised bed
Flat bed
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Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Feed of arm
Cylinder bed
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Sewing Machine
Machine beds
Post bed
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Seams Stitches

• Garments are shaped and formed in three ways
• materials molded to a form,
• fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by
  bonding, and
• pieces cut to shape and sewn.
• For the purpose of standardization of stitch and
  seam formations, the U.S government developed a
  guide that defines stitches and seams in current
  use. The United States Federal Stitch and Seam
  Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were
  adopted in 1965.
• The British Standard BS 3870 Schedule of
  Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
  developed about the same time.
• The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by
  ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to Stitches and
  Seams.

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Seams Stitches

• ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions
• A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing
  of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
• A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are
  joined.
• A stitching consists of a series of stitches
  embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or
  finishing an edge or both.

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Seams Stitches
Seams

• The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of
  fabric together.
• To perform its function correctly, the seam
  should have properties or characteristics closely
  allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
• The careful selection of the most appropriate
  seam, a suitable stitch type together with the
  correct thread and machine settings for the
  fabric and end-product is of paramount
  importance.

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Seams Stitches
Physical properties of seam

• Strength a seam must be strong. Strength is
  usually measured in two directions across the
  seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along
  the seam (longitudinal strength).
• Extensibility
• Durability A seam must be durable, long-lasting
  and not abrade or wear easily during everyday use
  of the garment
• Security a seam needs to be secure and not
  unravel during everyday use of the garment
• Appearance properties the ideal seam should
  join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive and
  efficient manner with no discontinuity in
  physical properties or appearance.
• Balance

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Seams Stitches
Classification of seams

• Superimposed seam
• Lap seam
• Bound seam
• Flat seam
• Edge finishing

Superimposed seam
Bound seam
Lap seam
Edge finishing
Flat seam
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Seams Stitches
Stitches

• Stitch properties
• Stitch size has three dimensions length, width,
  and depth.
• Stitch length is specified as the number of
  stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator
  of quality. High spi means short stitches low
  spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater
  the spi, the more the holding power and seam
  strength.
• Stitch width refers to the horizontal span
  (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or
  single line of stitching. Stitches that have
  width dimensions require multiple needles or
  lateral movement of thread carriers such as the
  needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
• Stitch depth is the distance between the upper
  and lower surface of the stitch. It is a factor
  for blind stitches.

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Seams Stitches
Stitch classification

• Stitch classification is based on structure of
  the stitch and method of interlacing.

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Seams Stitches
Stitch classification

• 100 Class stitch Single thread chain stitch
• Using one needle thread and one blind looper

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction
103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
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Seams Stitches
Stitch classification

• 200 Class stitch Single thread hand sewn stitch
• Using one needle thread

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs
205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching
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Seams Stitches
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  
                                          
Stitch classification

• 300 Class stitch Two or more thread lock stitch
• Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies
304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch a stretch lockstitch
306 Class Two thread Blind stitch
315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag
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Seams Stitches
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  
           
Stitch classification

• 400 Class stitch Multi-thread chain stitch
• Using one or more needle threads and one or more
  looper threads

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
401 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies with moderate stretch
404 Class Two threads Topstitching or seaming with stretch
406 Class Three threads "Bottom cover stitch a (greater) stretch chain stitch
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Seams Stitches
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  
                                                  
                                          
Stitch classification

• 500 Class Stitch Multi-thread over edge chain
  stitch
• Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for serging / blanket stitch"
502 Class Two thread One needle over edge stitch for serging
503 Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of fabric
504 Class Three thread Over edge stitch for serging and light seaming
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Seams Stitches
Stitch classification

• 500 Class Stitch Multi-thread over edge chain
  stitch
• Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
512 Class Four Thread Mock safety stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits
514 Class Four Thread Over edge stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits
515 Class Four Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits
516 Class Five Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits
99
Seams Stitches
                                                  
                                        
                                                  
                                                  
                     
Stitch classification
600 Class Stitch Multi-thread cover stitches
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
602 Class Four thread Cover stitch or seaming knits
605 Class Five thread Cover stitch
607 Class Six thread Wide cover stitch
100
Quality department
101
Quality department

• Responsibilities of quality department
• To impart quality in the product.
• To ensure that the product has achieved the
  quality parameters of buyers.
• To restrict the defects entering into the final
  product.
• Main function of quality department is to carry
  out inspection.
• Inspection can be defined as the visual
  examination or review of raw materials, partially
  finished components of the garments and
  completely finished garments in relation to some
  standards, specifications, or requirements, as
  well as measuring the garments to check if they
  meet the required measurements.

102
Quality department
Principle of inspection (inspection loop)
103
Quality department
How much to inspect ?

• No inspection
• 100 inspection
• Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
• Arbitrary sampling-10 sampling
• Statistical sampling or acceptance
  sampling-flexibility with regard to the amount of
  inspection to be performed

104
Quality department
Inspection terms

• Sample A sample consists of one or more units of
  a product drawn from a lot or batch, the units
  of the sample being selected at random without
  regards to their quality. The number of units of
  a product in the sample is the sample size.
• Lot or batch Means Inspection lot or
  Inspection Batch, that is a collection of units
  of a product from which a sample is to be drawn
  and inspected.
• Lot or batch size The lot or batch size is the
  number of units of a product in a lot or batch
• Percent defective Number of defectives
  100
• Number of units inspected

105
Quality department
Identification of defects

• Major Defect A defect that, if conspicuous on
  the finished product, would cause the item to be
  second.
• Minor Defect A defect that would not cause the
  product to be termed as a second either because
  of severity or location.
• Second A Second is a garment with a
  conspicuous defect that affects the saleability
  or serviceability of the item.

106
Quality department
Spreading defects

• Possible Pattern Defects
• Pattern parts missing
• Mixed parts
• Patterns not facing in the correct direction on
  napped fabrics
• Patterns not all facing in the same direction on
  a one-way fabric
• Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric
  grain
• Line definition poor

• Skimpy marking
• Generous marking
• Marker too wide
• Not enough knife clearance freedom
• Mismatched checks and stripes
• Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct, or
  misplaced

107
Quality department
Cutting defects

• Frayed edges
• Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
• Ply-to-ply fusion
• Single-edge fusion
• Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
• Notches
• Drills

108
Quality department
Sewing defects

• Needle Damage
• Feed Damage
• Skipped stitches
• Thread breaks
• Broken stitches
• Seam grin
• Seam pucker

• Pleated seams
• Wrong stitch density
• Uneven stitch density
• Staggered stitch
• Improperly formed stitches
• Oil spots or stains

109
Quality department
Seaming defects

• Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
• Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
• Insecure back stitching
• Twisted seam
• Mismatched checks or stripes
• Mismatched seam
• Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated
  piece showing through the seam
• Reversed garment part
• Blind stitching showing on the face side
• Wrong seam or stitch type used
• Wrong shade of thread used

110
Quality department
Assembly defects

• Finished components nor correct to size or shape
  or not symmetrical.
• Finished garment not to size
• Parts, components, closures or features omitted
• Components or features wrongly positioned or
  misaligned
• Interlining incorrectly positioned
• Lining too full, too tight, showing below the
  bottom of the garment, twisted,
• Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing
  bubbles and fullness
• Garment parts shaded
• Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
• Mismatched trimming

111
Quality department
Checks for final inspection

• Open seams
• Skipped stitches
• Cracked stitches
• Stitches/inch
• Uneven seams
• Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams
• Needle and feed cuts
• Unclipped threads and Long ends
• Raw edge

• Snaps, fasteners, buttons
• Labels
• Elastic
• Measurements
• Mends or repairs
• Stripe
• Hems
• Trim
• Broken needle
• Distortion

112
Quality department
AQL Accepted quality level

• The AQL is the maximum percent defective that,
  for the purpose of sampling inspection can be
  considered satisfactory as a process average.
• The AQL is a designated value of percent
  defective that the customer indicates will be
  accepted most of the time by the acceptance
  sampling procedures to be used.

113
Quality department
AQL Accepted quality level
Sample size code letters Sample size code letters Sample size code letters Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size Lot or Batch Size Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter
2 to 8 A
9 to 15 B
16 to 25 C
26 to 50 D
51 to 90 E
91 to 150 F
151 to 280 G
281 to 500 H
501 to 1200 J
1201 to 3200 K
3201 to 10000 L
10001 to 35000 M
114
Quality department
AQL Accepted quality level
Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans Sampling Plans
Sample Size Code Letter Sample Size Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level Acceptable Quality Level
    2.5 2.5 4 4 6.5 6.5 10 10
    Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4
F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6
G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8
H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15
K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22
L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22
M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
115
Finishing and packging department
116
Finishing and packaging department

• Finishing is the last stage of garment production
  where garment gets its final look.
• In this department each garment undergoes
  different finishing processes.
• It undergoes for quality check for several number
  of time which sets the garment free from defects.
  
• Buyer specifications and instructions are
  strictly maintained.

117
Finishing and packaging department
Operations performed at finishing stage

• Thread cutting Uncut threads affect the
  presentation of finished and packed garments.
  Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the
  loose and uncut threads.
• Stain removal Removal of the following type of
  stains
• Seam ironing Ironing of garments using steam
  ironing tables with vacuum boards.
• Final finishing The entire garment is finished
  using various finishing equipments.

Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
118
Finishing and packaging department
Operations performed at finishing stage

• Tagging and packing The pass pieces are brought
  to the tagging and packing section. It is the
  responsibility of the packing supervisors to
  provide the tagging operators with the
  appropriate price and brand tags. He also
  instructs the tagging operator as to where and
  how the tag has to be placed. The most important
  thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag is
  to match the size mentioned on the main label and
  the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to
  pack the garments as per the specification of the
  buyer.

119
Finishing and packaging department
Operations performed at finishing stage

• Presentation checking and cartoon packing
• It is very important to check the packed garments
  for presentation. Checkers check the packed
  garments for the following things
• Poly bags are as per specification.
• Tags and price stickers are as per
  specification.
• Packing is secured or not if specified.
• Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
• Hangers are there or not if specified.
• Garment has been folded as per specification
  etc.

120
Finishing and packaging department
Operations performed at finishing stage

• Presentation checking and cartoon packing
• Once, checking is done they send the garments for
  the carton packing. The following things are kept
  in mind during carton packing
• Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
• Ratio asked for example SML211
• Packing the garments in the cartons as per
  specified.
• Closing the cartons with cello tape.
• Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
• Writing on carton information like Store or
  buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net
• weight of the carton etc.

121
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