CERAMICS

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CERAMICS

• An Overview

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CERAMICS- the art of making functional objects by
firing at high temperatures.
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These objects include teapots, vases, plates,
pitchers and drinking vessels.
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KILN -oven used to cook clay-temperatures reach
over 2000 degrees FFIRE -when clay is cooked in
the kiln. This process hardens and strengthens
clay and adheres glazes.
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GREENWARE- damp, malleable clay before firing.
Greenware must be pounded before use. This
removes air bubbles which prevents explosions.
All parts of the clay object must be no thicker
than the fat part of your thumb. If thicker you
must hollow out this area.
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Clay must always be covered in a bag to remain in
this stage. Air will dry out clay to a bone dry
stage. At that point it will not be workable.
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TAKING CARE OF YOUR CLAYYou will receive a 25lb
bag of clay that you will use the entire school
year

• Always keep your clay in a plastic bag with no
  holes.
• You must take care of this clay and use the
  entire bag. You will not receive new clay until
  all the clay is finished.
• Use a wire tool to cut only the clay you need for
  that class period. Once clay is exposed to air
  and your hands it begins to dry out.
• At the end of the period ball up any extra clay
  into one large piece. The smaller and thinner the
  piece of clay the faster it will dry out.
• If the clay is still wet pound back into the
  larger piece in your bag.
• If the clay is dry ( begins to crack ) wrap the
  extra ball of clay in a wet cloth. Place back in
  the bag and close tightly.

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Leatherhard- clay that is firm but still damp
enough to manipulate its form. This is the best
condition to trim, carve and add appendages. Over
time clay will naturally become leatherhard when
covered in a bag.
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BONE DRY - clay that is ready for firing. It has
dried out for at least 5 days and has lost most
of its water. Turns lighter in color when
dry.Very, very fragile at this point. Do not
pick it up until it has been fired.
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BISQUE FIRE clay that has been fired once. Form
is stronger at this point. Below the bright white
vessels are bisque fired, the darker gray ones on
the boards are bone dry.
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GLAZE- a liquid that is painted on a ceramic
piece to seal the porous surface and add color.
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PINCH METHOD using your fingers to create a
form.
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COIL METHOD-using snake-like forms to build a
form.Excellent method for building tall hollow
vessels.
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Coils can be smoothed out using a rib tool. This
tool is usually made of wood with both a curved
and straight edge. Clay must be leatherhard for
this technique to work correctly.
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SLAB- clay that is rolled out into an even wall.
Clay is rolled out with a rolling pin or slab
roller ( bottom right ). Slabs can be built into
a box, rolled into a cylinder or draped over a
mold.
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DRAPE METHOD- using slabs that are placed and
pressed over a mold. The mold can be a bowl or
any form found or made by the artist. The mold
must be covered in cheesecloth or newspaper so
the clay wont stick to it .
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CARVE-subtracting clay with a tool to create
texture or a new form.Leatherhard clay is the
best stage for this technique.
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SLIP- very wet clay that is used to adhere
separate clay pieces together.
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SLIP AND SCORE- Method for adhering separate
pieces of clay together. Must be done for all
pieces and parts of a project. If not than as
project becomes bone dry it shrinks and will fall
apart. 1) Using a fork scratch into both sections
that are to be attached.
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2) Apply slip to one section and then blend parts
together with a knife. 3) Seam must be blended
together so there is no evidence of two separate
parts
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Clay toolsWire tool used to cut clayRibbon tool
used to hollow out and carve clayFelting knife
used to blend slip/score seams
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Names of the sections of a finished vessel
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The ceramic process in chronological order

• Pound clay several times
• Cover table with tablecloth and put clay on
  canvas board. Pick up canvas board instead of
  project so you wont deform your project.
• Work clay into form using hand building methods.
• Always cover clay project in progress with a
  plastic bag. Project will dry out into a bone dry
  stage within a few hours if left uncovered and
  will be unworkable!
• Over time as you work on your piece it will begin
  to get dry. COVER WITH A DAMP CLOTH AND BAG TO
  KEEP CLAY WET. NEVER COVER WITH A WET CLOTH
  BECAUSE THE CLAY WILL GET TOO WET AND FALL APART.
• Add appendages, carve, etc. when clay is
  leatherhard. Slip and score all pieces together.
  Clay will naturally become leatherhard over time
  but you can quicken the process by puffing up bag
  with air.
• When finished creating your project remove from
  bag and let air dry in the kiln room. It must dry
  out for several days before it can be fired.
• When bone dry project is bisque fired which takes
  8-10 hours.
• After project is fired it is ready to be glazed
  and it must be fired a second time at a lower
  temperature. When object is glaze fired it will
  be smooth, shiny and functional.