Diapositive 1

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Perfume Notebook Autumn-Winter 2004
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Introduction

• The launches this season have a quality feel,
  they have dressed themselves in beautiful raw
  materials, opulent backgrounds, dark reds,
  profound purples and precious metals. Typical
  examples of these luxury perfumes are Visit for
  Woman, Cinema, Apparition, Prada, lInstant pour
  Homme or Issey Miyakes lEau Bleue pour Homme.
• Many of last years launches have found their
  better half Visit, Pure, Burberry Brit,
  Magnetism, lInstant, Echo. This gives
  consistency to the launches and slows down the
  one-shot effect.
• Glamour Lolitas (Envy, Britney Spears, Touch of
  Pink.) continue to provide inspiration to
  certain brands and constitute an interesting
  target.
• In terms of marketing, the recent launches tend
  to create their own concepts rather than use the
  brand or another successful fragrance as a
  reference.

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Introduction

• Classic glamour and femininity can be found in
  such launches as Cinéma, Infiniment, Prada, and
  Apparition among others reminding us to treat
  ourselves well.
• Playing to our sense of romance, we can find the
  man of our dreams in LInstant de Guerlain Pour
  Homme or Magnetism for Men, while playing the
  role of seductress ourselves (Envy Me, Pure
  Poison, Femme Individuelle).
• Transcending space and time, we can escape the
  everyday by going Beyond Paradise to Be Delicious
  in the Big Apple, dine in Little Italy or fall in
  Love in Paris then jet off to London by Paul
  Smith. We may even sniff out our perfect mate
  (Burberry Brit for Men, Incanto Pour Homme, Visit
  for Women).
• As we continue on our journey we are surrounded
  by the rich red, brilliant pink and deep blue
  hues of the flacons that house these enchanting
  creations, making us realise that the opulence
  and luxury of fragrance has returned.

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Autumn - Winter 2004 Launches
Womens Fragrances Apparition Emanuel
Ungaro Armani Mania Armani Be Delicious
DKNY Blush Marc Jacobs Cinema YSL Echo Woman
Davidoff Envy Me Gucci Infiniment
Chopard Iris Nobile Acqua di Parma Lauren Style
Ralph Lauren Little Italy Bond N9 Love in
Paris Nina Ricci Max Mara Max Mara Miracle So
Magic! Lancôme Prada Prada Pure Poison
Dior Rosamor Oscar de la Renta Touch of Pink
Lacoste Visit for Woman Azzaro
Mens Fragrances B Men Thierry Mugler Beyond
Paradise Men Estée Lauder Burberry Brit Men
Burberry Incanto Homme Ferragamo LEau Bleue
pour Homme Issey Miyake LInstant pour Homme
Guerlain Magnetism for Men Escada Pure for Men
Jil Sander Reaction for Men Kenneth Cole
Unisex Fragrances Chêne Serge Lutens Daim
Blond Serge Lutens LEau des Vanilliers
LOccitane Timbuktu LArtisan Parfumeur Paired
Fragrances Aigner Black Aigner London Paul
Smith

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Women's Fragrances
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Apparition - Emanuel UngaroInternational,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Cayenne Pepper, Raspberry Liqueur
• Mid Double Delight Rose, Passion Flower
• Base Patchouli, Heliotrope
• Special ingredient Raspberry liqueur
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Floral -
  Fruity Double delight rose, passiflore,
  raspberry, pepper note. The background is
  heliotrope and patchouli.
• Bottle Designer Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France)
• Concept Targets women between 18-35 years old.
  Emanuel Ungaro aims to capture the essence of
  what a woman is today with the launch of his
  third scent, Apparition. Ungaro is quoted as
  saying for me, a woman unleashes the power to
  dream, thats what I tried to do with this
  fragrance. Both sensual and mysterious, the
  fragrance will appeal to the truly modern woman.

(www.emanuelungaro.com)
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Armani Mania - ArmaniInternational, August 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Fresh, Aromatic, Laurel, Pink Pepper
• Mid Fruity, Acacia, Mimosa, Liquorice, Foody
• Base Powdery, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Amber,
  Marine
• Special ingredient Laurel
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The woody
  aromatic floral opens with top notes of Moroccan
  laurel, green mandarin zest, blackcurrant and
  pink pepper. The middle notes are magnolia,
  peony, muguet and orris. The base notes feature
  white wood, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, white
  musk and Virginia cedar.
• Bottle Designer Fabien Baron
• Concept It is different from the first Mania in
  that its juice is pinkish while the packaging is
  white. Mania was black for the happy few. In
  other words it is an ode to life. Targeting women
  18-34 years old, Mania Women is positioned for
  the woman who "has arrived" and as a result is
  comfortable with herself.

(www.giorgioarmani.com)
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Be Delicious - DKNYUSA, September 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Fruity, Melon, Green Apple
• Mid White Flowers, Lily, Rose
• Base Aqueous, Violet Leaves
• Special ingredient Apple
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The top note
  introduces American apple extract, created
  specially for DKNY, combined with cucumber,
  grapefruit and magnolia. In the middle are
  tuberose, muguet, rose and violet, drying down to
  a base of sandalwood, white amber, blonde wood
  and tender skin accord.
• Bottle Designer Chad Lavigne
• Concept Be Delicious is a fruity fragrance that
  celebrates life in the Big Apple. The outer
  packaging carries a sticker stating that the
  contents are 100 New York.

(www.dkny.com)
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Blush - Marc JacobsUSA, September 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Jasmine, Honeysuckle
• Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom
• Base Aqueous, Celery, Sandalwood, Pink Musk
• Special ingredient Honeysuckle
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Targeted to
  young, creative women, Blush opens with notes of
  jasmine nectar, jasmine fresh air and Italian
  bergamot and warms to a heart of star jasmine,
  jasmine breeze, pink freesia, orange flower and
  Japanese honeysuckle. The fragrance dries down
  to pink musk, cashmere wood and sandalwood
  accords that anchor the floral and round out
  the balance of notes.
• Bottle Designer Chad Lavigne
• Concept Jacobs' aim with Blush was to create the
  "sort of a perfume for the non-perfume person.
  I wanted to capture a feminine emotion, a woman
  who has a knowing blush, who is beautiful and
  seductive" The fragrance will also be launched
  with a limited edition make-up collection.

(www.marcjacobs.com)
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Cinema - YSL International, October 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Fresh, Bergamot, Mandarin
• Mid Orange Blossom, Jasmine
• Base Amber, Vanilla, Powdery
• Special ingredient Vanilla and musk
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The golden jus
  opens with Corsican clementine, almond tree
  blossom and cyclamen. At its heart are classic
  amaryllis, sambac jasmine and peony, rounded out
  with a base of musk, amber and lingering Bourbon
  vanilla.
• Bottle Designer Lin Vautrin
• Concept The scent is positioned to conjure up
  images of Hollywoods Golden Era or perhaps
  French New Wave. It is for the woman who is the
  star of her own life, someone who takes to the
  spotlight with confidence.

(www.ysl.com)
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Echo Woman - Davidoff International, October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Grape, Banana, Osmanthus
• Mid White Flowers, Aqueous
• Base Musky
• Special ingredient Osmanthus
• Olfactive Description Trade Press We softened
  its intensity with white musk and added
  femininity with floral notes of osmanthus and
  orris pulp around the heart. The juice's top note
  is grape-raspberry frappé, counteracted with a
  sensual base note of violet wood and crystal
  amber.
• Bottle Designer Karim Rashid
• Concept An Italian drink, grappa, was the
  inspiration for this new scent. It is targeted
  at the 25-35 year old woman.

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Envy Me - Gucci Europe and China, October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Hesperidic, Tea
• Mid Lychee, Red Fruits, Rose
• Base Musky
• Special ingredient Lychee
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Its first note
  is the pink peony, followed by white tea, lychee
  and finally pink musk.
• Concept The little sister to Envy, Envy Me is
  intended to be a more light-hearted iteration of
  the original fragrance. Still considered to be
  very seductive, Envy Me unlike Envy is not based
  on pure desire, but on a more playful flirtation.
  The aim is to make this fragrance a desirable
  Gucci accessory, just like a Gucci handbag.
  Envy Me is targeted to reach young, affluent
  educated women, especially in the Greater China
  area, who are brand aware. Target 25-35 year
  olds.

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Infiniment - Chopard International, October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Petitgrain, Pink Pepper
• Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Ylang-ylang
• Base Lilac, Powdery, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Tuberose, Bulgarian rose
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The heart is
  floral (rose, tuberose), enlightened by watery
  notes which announce a spicy touch (pepper
  associated to bergamot and petitgrain) and
  unveils its charms in a melting pot of benzoin,
  sandalwood and airy musks.
• Bottle Designer Jérôme Faillant-Dumas
• Concept The latest fragrance from luxury
  jeweller Chopard, Infiniment, is intended to
  have the same long-lasting appeal as their
  jewellery. The use of the adjective infinitely
  in the name was taken seriously since the project
  was developed with Chopards luxury roots in
  mind. The company wanted to go back to what
  Chopard stands for and deliver a high-end,
  upscale product. With this "skin jewel", French
  jeweller Chopard pursues his olfactive career in
  an ultra-feminine style.

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Iris Nobile - Acqua di Parma International,
October 2004

• Olfactive Family CHYPRE FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Orris, Star Anise
• Mid Orris, Orange Blossom
• Base Orris, Amber
• Special ingredient Orris
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Iris Nobile
  notes include orris petals, Sicilian mandarin and
  Calabrian bergamot, middle notes of orris petals
  and bottom notes of orris roots, Madagascan
  vanilla and amber crystals.
• Bottle Designer Acqua di Parma studio
• Concept "We have dedicated Iris Nobile to a
  woman who is fascinating, chic, feminine, sensual
  and intellectual. This is not a fashion
  fragrance, but something that has its own style".
  An orris made in the Florentine fashion with
  orange blossom and precious pearls.

(www.acquadiparma.com)
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Lauren Style - Ralph Lauren USA, October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Gardenia, Orange Blossom
• Mid Muguet, Jasmine
• Base Patchouli, Vanilla, Musky
• Special ingredient Orange blossom
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
  is described as a "suèded floral. It includes
  opening notes of tangerine-kumquat, lime and
  Moroccan orange flower, blending into floral
  notes including jasmine, Tahitian gardenia and
  magnolia in the heart patchouli, benzoin siam,
  suede and musk base notes.
• Concept The fragrance was created in synergy
  with the Lauren fashion line, which relaunched
  this spring. It will target sophisticated and
  elegant women between 25 and 50.

(www.polo.com)
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Little Italy - Bond N9 USA, October 2004

• Olfactive Family HESPERIDIC
• Olfactive Description
• Top Clementine, Grapefruit, Mandarin
• Mid Tangerine, Jasmine
• Base Musk
• Special ingredient Clementine
• Olfactive Description Trade Press An updated
  citrus splash/spray featuring top notes of
  clementine, grapefruit and mandarin, a heart of
  tangerine and jasmine accords and a sheer musk
  base note.
• Bottle Designer Laurice Rahme
• Concept Little Italy is the new fragrance in
  their series inspired by various New York
  neighbourhoods. It is the nineteenth scent in
  Bond No 9s line.

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Love in Paris - Nina Ricci International except
USA, October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Star Anise
• Mid Jasmine, Rose, Peony, Apricot, Aqueous
• Base Woods, Musk, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Rose, Peony, Jasmine
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The juice's
  top notes feature Italian bergamot and star
  anise. Heart notes include rose, peony, apricot
  and jasmine, while at the base are notes of
  woods, vanilla and musk.
• Bottle Designer Jérôme Faillant-Dumas (L.O.V.E)
• Concept "Nina Ricci has always carried a
  positive message to women. Love in Paris comes
  at a not very positive time, so we want to bring
  a message of happiness". The Love in Paris name
  is supposed to recall Nina Ricci's Parisian roots
  and the brand's recurring theme of romance.

(www.ninaricci.com)
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Max Mara - Max MaraFrance, September 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Citrus Fruits, Green
• Mid Aldehydic, Fruity, Apricot, Strawberry
• Base Musky, Vanilla, Cedarwood
• Special ingredient Cane Sugar
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A floral
  fragrance with a textile association. Linen
  freshness in top notes with ginger, Sicilian
  lemon. Feminine mid notes with lily, orchid (silk
  sensuality) and magnolia. Sweet base notes to
  show the comfort of cashmere, cedarwood and
  sandalwood. Main ingredient Cane sugar give its
  softness and its personality to the perfume
• Bottle Designer Thierry de Baschmakoff
  (Aesthète)
• Concept Max Mara womens fragrance is described
  as fresh, luminous and feminine created to
  capture the 53 year old fashion houses engaging
  sense of practical glamour. Just like the
  clothing, the scent is meant to have a lifestyle
  rather than generation appeal. Max Mara's aim is
  to position it as one of the key fragrances in
  Europe within three years.

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Miracle So Magic! - Lancôme International,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL GREEN
• Olfactive Description
• Top Watery, Green
• Mid Muguet, Rose, Fruity
• Base Vanilla
• Special ingredient Rose and narcissus
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A floral,
  green and sparkling note. With narcissus
  absolute, eglantine rose and clover leaves for
  the green note, which is very different from the
  floral spicy-pepper note in Miracle.
• Concept A magical encounter between two flowers
  wild rose and narcissus, sparkling as a pink
  champagne. The gentle beauty and the wild thing.
  An interesting clover note provides the fragrance
  with a fresh, green crispness. The base note is
  sensual, thanks to the presence of vanilla notes.

(www2.lancome.com)
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Prada - Prada International, October 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Mandarin
• Mid Rose, Pink Pepper, Patchouli
• Base Cistus Labdanum, Benzoin, Tonka Bean,
  Vanilla, Amber
• Special ingredient Sandalwood, Patchouli leaves,
  Labdanum resin and Benzoin
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Top notes are
  Italian bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, Sicilian
  mandarin oil and mimosa absolute. In the middle
  are rose absolute, schinus molle absolute and
  patchouli oil Indonesia. The bottom accords are
  labdanum resinoid, tonka bean absolute, vanilla
  absolute, sandalwood India and bezoin Siam
  resinoïd.
• Concept Built as a truly feminine scent and a
  modern day classic, the Prada fragrance is a
  modern take on essential oils. It is an amber
  scent built around four time-honoured essences,
  each meant to reflect one of four dimensions
  sandalwood oil from India is pure patchouli
  leaves from Indonesia are addictive labdanum
  resin from France is precious and benzoin from
  Siam is profound. Distribution from August 2004
  at Niemann Marcus and Prada stores

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Pure Poison - Dior International, October 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Mandarin, Petitgrain
• Mid Jasmine, Orange Blossom
• Base Sandalwood, Musk, Amber
• Special ingredient Orange blossom
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Pure Poison's
  top notes include sweet orange, Calabrian
  bergamot and Sicilian mandarin. The middle notes
  are orange flower, jasmine sambac and hydroponic
  living gardenia. The base notes feature
  sandalwood, white amber and musks.
• Concept Today, Pure Poison is about celebrating
  the seductress in modern women. The Poison range
  is in second position among Dior fragrances after
  J'Adore. The whole range has been repackaged with
  this new launch.

(www.dior.com)
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Rosamor - Oscar de la Renta International,
October 2004

• Olfactive Family FLORAL FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Mandarin, Muguet
• Mid Gardenia, Rose, Ylang-Ylang
• Base Sandalwood, Tonka Bean
• Special ingredient White flowers
• Olfactive Description Trade Press It opens with
  fruity floral notes of Italian mandarin and
  muguet, warmed by a heart of ylang-ylang, Indian
  tuberose heliotrope, rose and gardenia. The base
  is a sensuous mix of sandalwood and tonka bean.
• Concept Rosamor, the seventh scent by Oscar de
  la Renta, is derived from the Spanish words
  meaning flower and love. He says that he wants
  Rosamor to be a scent that women fall in love
  with. "Women may say, I don't need a new
  fragrance, but I have fallen in love with it".

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Touch of Pink - Lacoste International, October
2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Grapefruit, Orange, Aromatic, Coriander
  Leaves
• Mid Jasmine, Aldehydic
• Base Aqueous, Sandalwood, Musk, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Orange
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A perfume that
  blends energy, femininity and sensuality. A
  floral heart of jasmine and violet. Lively,
  fruity touches (orange, carrot) and a sweet,
  woodsy close that is both gentle and persistent
  at the same time. 
• Bottle Designer Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France)
• Concept Lacoste Touch of Pink was created to
  capture the idea of living every moment to the
  fullest and the joy of chasing after new
  sensations. The colour is meant to convey spirit
  and vitality, in line with the scent's
  positioning in a category centred on energy and
  Lacoste's sporting heritage. Target women
  between 16-24 years old.

(www.lacoste.com)
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Visit for Woman - Azzaro International, October
2004

• Olfactive Family AMBERY FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bitter Orange Leaves, Green
• Mid Rose, Jasmine
• Base Cedarwood, Animal, Leather, Spicy,
  Coumarine
• Special ingredient Rose, Jasmine, Mandarin
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Floral - Woody
  - Ambery a fresh and spicy top note (pimento
  and bigarade leaves) followed by a floral middle
  note (Indian jasmine and peppered rose from
  Bulgaria (abs E.O.) and a woody and leather
  base (cashmeran, patchouli, tonka beans, benzoin)
  background.
• Bottle designer Federico Restrepo
• Concept The counterpart to the mens fragrance
  which launched last year, Visit for Women
  continues the seduction. While the ad campaign
  for the mens scent is about a mans encounter
  with a mysterious unseen woman, the ad for Visit
  for Women reveals her identity. The two
  scenarios play off against each other creating a
  true connection between the fragrances.

(www.azzaroparis.com)
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Men's Fragrances
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BMen - Mugler International, August 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Liquorice, Spicy
• Mid Spicy
• Base Woody, Vetyver, Amber
• Special ingredient Rhubarb
• Olfactive Description Trade Press With its
  fruity, spicy notes blended with rhubarb, the
  scent delivers a stunning new energy. The
  fragrances architecture was constructed from
  sensual, luminous sequoia wood, reinforced with
  amber and dry wood notes.
•  Bottle designer Thierry Mugler
• Concept This new essence for men is inspired by
  Thierry Muglers childhood passion for comic
  books and superheroes. And so, a few years after
  the successful launch of AMen, comes the amazing
  BMen, the second hero of this fantastic saga. A
  character with incredible powers, the champion of
  a world in danger. The fragrance aims to be more
  rhythmic and dynamic than AMen. While preserving
  the same geometric shapes, it adopts a new colour
  scheme red and khaki. 

(www.thierrymugler.fr)
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Beyond Paradise Men - Estée Lauder USA, August
2004

• Olfactive Family HESPERIDIC WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Mandarin, Agrest
• Mid Lavender, Sage, Tarragon, Thyme
• Base Woody, Aqueous, Musky
• Special ingredient Buchu
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The scent
  opens with notes of Eden's Mist, a watery, fresh
  ingredient captured from the biome jacticaba
  fruit, a tart Brazilian ingredient Eden Buchu, a
  green, slightly citrus element and an ingredient
  the team called the Wave Accord a blend of mint,
  mandarin and mousse de mer. The heart of the
  fragrance is a Mediterranean accord, a blend of
  lavender, Provencal sage, tarragon and thyme
  absolute, and cistus, a balsamic woody-smelling
  element. The drydown is made up of Eden vetyver
  and golden Melaleuca bark, both captured from the
  Eden Project's biomes. Beechwood, oakmoss and
  Indonesian patchouli, all add richness.
• Bottle Designer John Fling
• Concept Targeting men aged 18-34, Beyond
  Paradise Men is based on exotic ingredients
  obtained from a partnership with the Eden
  Project, the largest conservatory in the world.
  Men, nature, and women are key to mens idea of
  fantasy and Beyond Paradise is an attempt to
  speak to mens desire to escape.

(www.esteelauder.com)
(www.eden-project.co.uk)
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Burberry Brit for Men - Burberry USA/Europe,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL SPICY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Green Mandarin, Cardamom, Ginger
• Mid Wild Rose, Nutmeg, Cedarwood
• Base Woody, Tonka Bean, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Ginger
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The
  fragrance's top note is green and mandarin,
  freshly cut ginger, bergamot, and cardamom, while
  the midrange is a mix of wild roses and cedar
  wood. The base note is made from oriental wood,
  grey musk and tonka bean.
• Bottle designer Fabien Baron
• Concept "What we had in mind was a guy with a
  scruffy elegance, sexy, bohemian, but still
  approachable. We had the young Mick Jagger in
  mind." The face of the new campaign is British
  actor and Oxford graduate Hugh Dancy. Sitting in
  front of a 1968 Aston Martin, elegantly dressed
  in a pinstriped Burberry suit, he looks like a
  70s rock star, and embodies to perfection the
  laid-back, elegant spirit of this new scent for
  men. 

(www.inter-parfums.com)
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Incanto pour Homme - Ferragamo Duty Free,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY AMBER
• Olfactive Description
• Top Lemon, Bigarade, Verbena, Aromatic
• Mid Geranium
• Base Leather, Sandalwood, Musk
• Special ingredient Cypress
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Incanto pour
  Homme is a member of the woody amber olfactive
  family. The scent has a strong flavour of a
  woody heart note of Tuscan cypress, a bow to the
  designer's Florentine identity. The cypress is
  combined with top notes including Sicilian
  bigarade and bamboo leaf and bottom notes of
  Indonesian sandalwood and white musk.
• Bottle designer Tap by Serge Mansau
• Concept Incanto pour Homme is faithful to
  Salvatore Ferragamo's roots with an Italian
  aspect of innovation in pairing contrasting raw
  materials of Tuscan cypress with the modernity of
  bamboo leaves.

(www.ferragamo.com)
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LEau Bleue pour Homme - Issey Miyake Europe,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY HESPERIDIC
• Olfactive Description
• Top Star Anise, Mandarin
• Mid Spicy, Agrest (Lavender, Rosemary)
• Base Leather, Patchouli, Musky, Ambrette Seed,
  Palmarosa
• Special ingredient Star Anise
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
  was built as an "olfactive spiral" instead of a
  pyramid. A sparkling top note with tangerine,
  rosemary, citronella and star anise. The mid note
  is absolute May Rose, palmarosa and capucine. The
  background is patchouli, sandalwood and ambrette.
• Bottle designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
  Agency)
• Concept L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Pour Homme was
  inspired by the elements and is described as a
  symbol of water, life energy, purity and love.
  The blue invites you plunge right into the
  bottle. LEau Bleue invites you to Immerse
  yourself in bluecolours that come together in
  watery depths states the company.

31
LInstant pour Homme - Guerlain International,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER HESPERIDIC
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Lemon, Star Anise
• Mid Spicy, Pepper
• Base Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Patchouli
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A fresh,
  citrus fruit, spicy (star anise) top note. The
  heart is sensual with jasmine, sandalwood, tea
  lapsong and cocoa beans. The background is
  patchouli.
• Bottle designer L.O.V.E
• Concept LInstant de Guerlain Pour Homme
  launches this year as the companion to last
  years womens version. The fragrance is the
  perfect mate for the womens as it completes the
  story about a couple. The womens side was about
  the moment when everything changes, the mens
  talks about taking action to change life.

(www.guerlain.com)
32
Magnetism for Men - Escada International,
October 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY AMBER
• Olfactive Description
• Top Spicy, Shinus Molle, Saffron
• Mid Cedarwood, Lavender
• Base Amber, Vanilla, Tobacco, Sandalwood,
  Leather
• Special ingredient Shinus molle
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Its spicy top
  notes include shinus and saffron, while notes of
  cedar, sandalwood and leather are at its heart.
  The scent's base features notes of tolu balm,
  amber and musk.
• Bottle designer Nicosia Creative Expresso
• Concept Magnetism for men was inspired by the
  seduction and attraction that some men exude, a
  sort of magnetism. The scent is being introduced
  as the mate to last year's Magnetism for women
  and is meant to fuel the development of the
  Escada men's beauty business.

(www.escada.com)
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Pure for Men - Jil Sander Germany, September 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Spicy, slight Banana effect
• Mid Juniper Berry, Elemi
• Base Dry Woods, Aqueous, Musky, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Elemi
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Described as a
  scent for every day, the fragrance starts with
  mandarin, juniper berry and spicy elemi. It has a
  rounded accord of white musk, watery bamboo and
  what Lancaster calls a 'pure air' molecule. It
  then moves into mahogany, sandalwood and vanilla
  bean.
• Bottle designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
  Agency)
• Concept A year after Pure for Women, Jil Sander
  launches a male companion. Described as a scent
  for every day, Pure for Men is elegant, with a
  simple way of being convincing, without any
  thrill nor exaggeration.

34
Reaction for Men - Kenneth Cole USA, September
2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY FRUITY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Grapefruit, Mandarin, Green Apple
• Mid Muguet
• Base Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk
• Special ingredient Melon and green apple
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Reaction is
  described as a citrus green woody fragrance with
  top notes of lime, melon rind and green apple.
  Middle notes include muguet and watermelon.
  Bottom notes consist of musk, patchouli and
  sandalwood.
• Bottle designer Chad Lavigne
• Concept Like the Reaction clothing line, on
  which the new scent is based, the Reaction
  fragrance has a casual positioning and accessible
  price. For those men who love scooter rides,
  snowboarding getaways, electronic music and
  trendy fashion.

(www.kennethcole.com)
35
Unisex Fragrances
36
Chêne - Salon du Palais Royal/Serge Lutens
France, September 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY AROMATIC
• Olfactive Description
• Top Fresh, Fruity, Rum
• Mid Aromatic, Thyme
• Base Woody, Fir Balsam, Cade, Tar
• Special ingredient Oak, Rum
• Olfactive Description Trade Press An intensely
  sensual, highly comfortable woodsy essence. The
  oak note is reinforced with resinous and spicy
  black thyme, plus the almost smoky scent of
  silver birch bark, a rum note and an
  undergrowth-and-tonka-bean closing. An
  extraordinary success. 
• Bottle Designer Serge Lutens
• Concept After Fumerie Turque, the Shiseido
  salons at Pariss Palais Royal have once again
  launched an emotional fragrance evocative of
  wonderful tales and rare ingredients.
  Orchestrated by the houses own creator, Serge
  Lutens, the oak, the tree that is a symbol of
  strength from fairy tales to Richard the
  Lionheart, here becomes an elixir of bold
  sensuality. A confident scent in which woods,
  resins and balms are transcended. A rare essence
  for men and women to share. 

(www.salons-shiseido.com)
37
Daim Blond - Serge Lutens France, September 2004

• Olfactive Family CHYPRE FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Cardamom
• Mid Orris, Jasmine
• Base Musk, Heliotrope
• Special ingredient Orris
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A rare and
  delicate approach to leather. Spicy, musky,
  creamy. With the creators ever-present desire to
  offer his clients only the best raw materials.
  Here we find Pallida Orris, Ceylonese cardamom
  and hawthorn blossom. 
• Bottle Designer The house bottle, rectangular,
  pared down and refined. As the first product in
  the new High Concentration Eaux de Parfum, Daim
  Blond is dressed in new colours black case,
  black label. 
• Concept Serge Lutens loves the rare materials
  that he crafts with delicacy, taking the time to
  transform each one into a masterpiece. And so
  Daim Blond was born. The name alone (it means
  white suede) offers the promise of a magical
  olfactory voyage. Creamy, downy, a sensation at
  the limit of your skin, where touch and smell
  seem to meet and blend into one. A rare and
  intense (with 20, instead of the usual 15)
  moment to share between a man and a woman. 

(www.shiseido.co.jp)
38
LEau des Vanilliers - LOccitane France,
November 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL
• Olfactive Description
• Top Ylang, Freesia, White Orchid
• Mid Jasmine, Vanilla
• Base Amber, Musk, Clove Bud
• Special ingredient Vanilla
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The fragrance
  contains notes of ylang-ylang, freesia, vanilla
  absolute and jasmine.
• Bottle Designer In-house
• Concept L'Occitane introduces consumers to the
  Fragrance Merchant with the launch, this autumn
  of L'Occitane Vanilla (one of 5) a new and
  delectable scent. Many are surprised to know that
  vanilla comes from the pods of an orchid. The
  flowers of this rare and special plant last only
  a brief time, and require meticulous hand
  pollination. The vanilla scent recalls our early
  childhood and is a symbol of a sweet gourmet
  moment. Approximately 25 of women's fragrances
  are composed using vanilla, representing an
  important contribution to the scent world.

(www.loccitane.com)
39
Timbuktu - LArtisan Parfumeur France, September
2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Green Mango, Spices
• Mid Coffee Bush Flower, Karo Karounde
• Base Cumin, Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetyver, Musk,
  Incense, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Woods
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A unisex
  fragrance that has spice in the top, heart and
  base notes and exudes wild flower scents and
  smoked woods. An unusual woodsy fragrance, both
  dense and sensual, dry and spellbinding. The
  opening blends the freshness of green mango with
  the heat of peppery spices. The heart is wild, a
  nectar of frankincense, papyrus smoke and the
  bewitchingly spicy karo karounde blossom. The
  earthy closing speaks in tones of patchouli
  leaves, myrrh and benzoin resins, and vetyver
  root. Perfect for anyone, male or female, who
  enjoys woodsy scents. 
• Bottle Designer Federico Restrepo
• Concept Timbuktu invites us to discover the
  secret smells of African culture. In Mali, people
  still practice the ancestral art of wusulan. They
  concoct a magical salve, with scents of wood,
  spices, resins and roots. After first letting it
  macerate, they then let the potion boil away,
  while their skin absorbs the richly scented
  swirls of smoke. Thus was born Timbuktu, a heady
  and arousing scent, at once savage and
  sophisticated. A magical potion for men and women
  to share.

(www.artisan-parfumeur.com)
40
Paired Fragrances
41
Aigner Black for Woman - Aigner International,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Lime, Aromatic
• Mid Rose, Incense
• Base Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky, Vanilla
• Special ingredient Vanilla
• Olfactive Description Trade Press A citrus
  cocktail of bergamot, mandarin, rose, aniseed,
  sandalwood and vanilla
• Bottle Designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
  Agency)
• Concept Aigner, famous for its leather goods,
  launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo,
  Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second
  line to launch under the Aigner fragrance
  umbrella following last years Leather. Black is
  designed to be modern, trendy and cool. The
  pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in
  their early to mid thirties.

42
Aigner Black for Man - Aigner International,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY HESPERIDIC
• Olfactive Description
• Top Bergamot, Grapefruit, Orange
• Mid Pine, Mint
• Base Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky , Moss
• Special ingredient Leather
• Olfactive Description Trade Press Aigner Black
  for Man contains bergamot, orange, grapefruit,
  wild pine, black musk, tonka bean, styrax and
  leather.
• Bottle Designer Fabien Baron (Baron Baron
  Agency)
• Concept Aigner, famous for its leather goods,
  launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo,
  Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second
  line to launch under the Aigner fragrance
  umbrella following last years Leather. Black is
  designed to be modern, trendy and cool. The
  pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in
  their early to mid thirties.

43
London Woman - Paul Smith International,
September 2004

• Olfactive Family AMBER FLORAL WOODY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Mandarin, Raspberry
• Mid Jasmine, Violet
• Base Sandalwood, Orris, Tonka Bean, Vanilla,
  Powdery
• Special ingredient Patchouli
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The women's
  fragrance has patchouli at its centre. Top notes
  are of lime, neroli, lilac leaf, jasmine,
  heliotrope, aniseed, vanilla and fresh syringa
  and the drydown is of amber and green woods.
• Bottle Designer Pierre Dinand
• Concept With his latest fragrance duo, Paul
  Smith has bottled everything he loves about his
  hometown, London. Inspired by the electric vibe
  of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it
  is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul
  Smith and Extreme.

(www.paulsmith.co.uk)
44
London Man Paul Smith International, September
2004

• Olfactive Family WOODY SPICY
• Olfactive Description
• Top Lime, Anise
• Mid Spicy
• Base Amber, Cedarwood
• Special ingredient Violet
• Olfactive Description Trade Press The Paul Smith
  London men's scent is built around a vetyver
  heart. It has top notes of green mandarin,
  violet flowers and leaves, mint, jasmine and
  lavender, and a drydown of vintage brandy,
  Australian sandalwood, tonka beans, and amber.
• Bottle Designer Pierre Dinand
• Concept With his latest fragrance duo, Paul
  Smith has bottled everything he loves about his
  hometown, London. Inspired by the electric vibe
  of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it
  is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul
  Smith and Extreme.

(www.paulsmith.co.uk)
45
Conclusions
46
Olfactive Trends

• On the womens side, most of the recent launches
  belong to the floral fruity/woody and amber
  floral families. Most novelties this semester
  have a fruity facet, whether they are smooth
  (Armani Mania, Apparition, Pure Poison) or fresh
  (Miracle, Love in Paris, Infiniment). On the
  other hand, amber fragrances are usually
  associated with a discreet sensuality, they are
  floral or powdery (Cinema, Max Mara, Barbara
  Bui).
• Mens fragrance launches are mainly represented
  in the woody aromatic and woody spicy olfactive
  families. On the woody side, Paul Smiths London
  for Man has an interesting amber and green facet
  and Burberry Brit Man is one of the rare amber
  masculine fragrances this season.
• We seem to have finished with citrus fruity top
  notes. Perfumers are working on green, plant
  notes which go through the heart of the fragrance
  (cf. Blush, Armani Mania). This freshness is also
  transmitted through an anise note in lInstant de
  Guerlain pour homme, or in Paul Smiths London
  for Woman, while Muglers BMen starts with a
  rhubarb note.

47
Olfactive Trends

• We observe a lighter approach to the foody
  trend with dry fruit notes, green fruits such as
  rhubarb (B Men) and kiwi, liquors (Apparition,
  Echo Woman), honey, vanilla and chocolate.
• There is a search for quality and density of
  fragrances illustrated by interesting use of raw
  materials, from which we conclude a fourfold
  classification for this years launches
• Fashion Accessories Pure Poison, Iris Nobile,
  Cinema, Love in Paris, Blush and Infiniment
• Floral Lightness Miracle So Magic!, Touch of
  Pink, Visit for Woman
• Touch Sensation Armani Mania, Max Mara, Hermès
  Hermessences new quartet (not included in
  this notebook)
• The Appeal of the Flesh Apparition, Crystal
  Noir, My Torrente.
• Furthermore, many highly selective fragrances
  (with restricted distribution) are being launched
  in Europe Hermessence by Hermès(4), Cologne by
  Dior(3), Prada Edt(4), with the intention of
  insuring the brands image and singularity rather
  than realising a significant turnover. In other
  words, they are using the intrinsic value of the
  brand.

48
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
49
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
50
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
51
Womens Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
52
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
53
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
54
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
55
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
56
Mens and Unisex Olfactive Mapping
L Limited Edition TR Travel Retail Bold
Included in notebook
57
Summary

• In terms of marketing, we see master branding
  playing a key role in this years launches giving
  consumers the newness they crave while further
  cementing a brands image
• Couples were out in full force, 38 of the new
  launches this year are part of a fragrance couple
• 8 new mens and 7 new womens counterparts for
  previously launched fragrances
• 12 new fragrance duos
• Limited Editions Summer Versions
• Following a trend that Escada established over 10
  years ago, many major brands are now launching
  seasonal creations to tempt consumers and
  generate excitement
• 20 major brands launched summer versions of
  established fragrances

58
Summary

• Celebrities are crashing the fragrance party,
  whether via advertising or launching their own
  signature scent
• Capitalising on the success of Céline Dion and
  Jennifer Lopez, celebrities such as Britney
  Spears, Jessica Simpson, Beyonce Knowles have all
  hit the launch pad with their own fragrances
• Sean P-Diddy Combs, Donald Trump and Paris
  Hilton fragrances are due out by early 2005
• Meanwhile Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kim Cattrall and
  Scarlett Johansson appear in significant ad
  campaigns
• An air of exclusivity is in evidence from the
  launches of fragrance collections from prestige
  fashion brands Hermes, Prada and Dior
• These fragrances are launched without commercial
  consideration in an attempt to signal luxury and
  exclusivity

59
Appendix ILimited Editions, Flankers, Duos
Other Notable Launches
Pink Womens Blue Mens Green Paired

60
Appendix IIWhos Who?
Aigner Black - Aigner - Puig Apparition -
Emanuel Ungaro - ITF Armani Mania - Armani -
LOréal Be Delicious - DKNY - Estée Lauder B Men
- Thierry Mugler - Clarins Group Beyond Paradise
Men - Estée Lauder Blush - Marc Jacobs -
Coty Burberry Brit Men - Burberry - Inter
Parfums Cinema - YSL - Gucci Group Chêne - Serge
Lutens Daim Blond - Salons du Palais Royal -
Serge Lutens Echo Woman - Davidoff -
Lancaster/Coty Envy Me - Gucci - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Incanto Homme - Ferragamo -
ITF Infiniment - Chopard - Lancaster/Coty Iris
Nobile - Acqua di Parma - Dior/LVMH LEau Bleue
pour Homme - Issey Miyake - BPI/Shiseido
LEau des Vanilliers - LOccitane LInstant pour
Homme - Guerlain - LVMH Lauren Style - Ralph
Lauren - LOréal Little Italy - Bond N9 -
LauriceCo London - Paul Smith - Inter
Parfums Love in Paris - Nina Ricci -
Puig Magnetism for Men - Escada - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Max Mara - Max Mara - Cosmopolitan
Cosmetics/PG Miracle So Magic! - Lancôme -
LOréal Prada - Prada Beauty - Puig Pure Poison -
Dior - LVMH Pure for Men - Jil Sander -
Lancaster/Coty Reaction for Men - Kenneth Cole -
Coty Rosamor - Oscar de la Renta - Gucci
Groue Timbuktu - LArtisan Parfumeur - Cradle
Holding Touch of Pink - Lacoste - PG Visit for
Woman - Azzaro - Clarins Group
61

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