Fragrance and the Mind

About This Presentation

Title: Fragrance and the Mind

Description:

Nicole Kidman. 2 MINUTE COMMERCIAL. The most expensive 60 second ad ever made, ... Nicole plays the world's most famous woman on the run ... – PowerPoint PPT presentation

Number of Views:514

Learn more at:http://www.stephen-herman.com

Slides: 160

Subcategory:

Tags: kidman | nicole

Add more tags

more less

About This Presenter

Username withheld

Number of Uploads:5

Total number of views:1362

Avg rating:3.0/5.0

Write a Comment

User Comments (0)

Transcript and Presenter's Notes

Title: Fragrance and the Mind

1
Fragranceand theMind
SCC Continuing Education 2006
2
STEVE HERMAN Director New Technology Manheimer
Fragrances steve.herman_at_mastertaste.com steve_at_ste
phen-herman.com www.stephen-herman.com 201-708-920
1
3
OUTLINE 1

History
Human Chemoreception
Age and Olfaction
Fragrance Creation
Fragrance Categories
Natural Products

4
OUTLINE 2

Synesthesia
Aromatherapy
Aromascience
Pheromones
Business
Resources

5
HISTORY 1

Ancient use-Sacred
1600 BC perfume made by maceration in Mesopotamia
Circa 350 BC first book on perfume (Theophrasus
of Athens
Circa 1000 distillation of
rose oil (Ibn Sian)

6
HISTORY 2

Distilling alcohol with serpentine cooler (Italy)
15th Century
1370 Hungary Water
1533 Perfumery brought to
France (Caterina DeMedici)
1710 Eau de Cologne (Farina
Family)

7
HISTORY 3

1771 Yardley founded
1775 Houbigant founded
1828 Guerlain Founded
1835 Solvent extraction of fragrance
materials

8
HISTORY 4

Synthesis-Coumarin (1868)
Fougere Royal (1882)
Coal Tar- From 1880S
1893 Manufacturing Perfumers Association of
the US founded

9
HISTORY 5

1905 Coty founded
1947 American Society of
Perfumers founded
1966 RIFM established
RIFM - Starting testing 1971
1973 IFRA established

10
JICKY

AIMÉ GUERLAIN
1889

11
KEY ELEMENTS
Discovery of two major synthetic
materials coumarin (from Tonka) and
vanillin- more potent than vanilla tinctures.
12
IMPORTANCE
Jicky laid the foundation of great French
perfumery. It marked the beginning of emotive
perfumery which no longer attempted to imitate
the scent of flowers but sought instead to
arouse emotions.
13
UNISEX
Men and women used the same fragrances
sprinkled onto a handkerchief. Jicky seemed so
revolutionary that it was first directed at men
then switched to women with a new bottle.
14
Shalimar 1925
Jacques Guerlain was given a new chemical ethyl
vanillin. Curious he poured some into a bottle
of Jicky
15
During development it had the working name Taj
Mahal. Guerlain changed it to Shalimar because
the Taj Mahal was the end of the story while
the gardens of Shalimar where about a
never-ending love.
16
SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Top

Bergamot
Lavender
Rosemary
Rosewood

Bergamot

17
SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Middle

Rose
Jasmine
Geranium

Rose
Jasmine

18
SHALIMAR VS JICKY
Bottom

Tonka bean
Opopanox
Vanilla
Coumarin

Tonka bean
Opopanox
Vanilla
Iris

19
Chanel No. 5
FRAGRANCE CLASSIC

Ernest Beaux
1921

20
ERNEST BEAUX
Worked in Russia before 1914 created Rallet no.
1 Offered to Coco Chanel in 1921 as No.
5 relaunched 1925 by Wertheimer Group
21
ALDEHYDE BLEND

Aldehyde C-10
Aldehyde C-11
Aldehyde C-12 Lauric

22
(No Transcript)
23
WHAT DO YOU WEAR TO BED
Why Chanel No. 5 of course.
MM to Sidney Skolsky 1952
24
2004
Nicole Kidman
25
2 MINUTE COMMERCIAL The most expensive 60
second ad ever made costing 12 million with
Nicole being paid 10. Nicole is draped in 42
million dollars worth of diamonds
wearingoutfits designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
Nicole plays the worlds most famous woman on
the run from the paparazzi escaping into the
arms of Rodrigo Santoros character.
26
HUMAN CHEMORECEPTION

Olfactory System
Trigeminal Nerve
Volmeronasal Organ
(VNO)

27
(No Transcript)
28
SORs
STRUCTURE/ODOR RELATIONSHIPS

Vibrational Theory-
Wright Turin
Stereochemical Theory- Amoore

29
JOHN AMOORE
MOLECULAR BASIS OF ODOR
CHARLES C. THOMAS 1970
Primary Odors Ethereal Camphoraceous Musky Floral
Minty Pungent Putrid
30
LOCK KEY
Stereochemical Theory of Odor
31
ANOSMIAS
Odor blindness- everyone has them Amoore used
as tool to identify primary odors- ANOSMIARECEPT
OR
32
LUCA TURIN
Vibration of molecules determines odor- details a
fews down the road
The Emperor of Scent- Chandler Burr BBC Horizon
A Code in the Nose
33
BUCK AXEL

Cell Vol. 652 175-187 April 51991
Scientific American October 1995

Sought the genes encoding odor receptor proteins
as a tool to study the structure and function
of the odor receptors themselves
34
FINDING THE CODE
35
CONSENSUS LOCATIONS
N
F3 MDSSNRTRVSEFLLLGFVENKDL QP F5
MSSTNQSSVTEFLLLGLSRQPQQQQ
TM1
IC1

LIYGLFLSMYLVTVIGNISIIVAI ISDPCLHT LLFLLFLIMYLATVLG
NLLIILAIGTDSRLHT
EC3
TM7
SSAANN SSQASATASVMYTVVTPMVNPFIYSL NPSSSHLAGRDMAAAV
MYAVVTPMLNPFIYSL
C
RNKDVKSVLKKTTLCEEVIRSPPSLLHFFLVLCHLPCFIFCY RNSDMKA
ALRKVLAMRFPSKQ
36
TWO CLASSES OF HUMAN OLFACTORY RECEPTORS
37
OLFACTORY GENES AND PSEUDOGENES
38
WHATS NEXT

Translate into amino acids
Form helical structure
Snake through lipid membrane
Identify receptor pockets

39
CODONS

40
(No Transcript)
41
CILIUM
42
BIO-BATTERY
G X G X X G
L H S G C
(or GXGXXA)
6th coil
NADPH
Zn
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide Phosphate
43

LUCA TURIN
Inelastic Electron Tunneling
NADPH
Energy gap
S-S
Zn
G-Protein
Receptor
Transduction Mechanism
44
NADPH
-
SH
HS-

Zn
45
G-PROTEIN BASICS

On-off switch
Signal amplification-
step in the cascade

46
CYCLING
GDP
GTP
Inactive
GDP
Active
G
GDP
GTP
G
Cycling of Go
47
(No Transcript)
48
COMBINATIONS

3 Receptors in eye discriminate 100S of hues
Nose- 450 receptors 10000 odors

49
(No Transcript)
50
TRIUNE BRAIN
Limbic System
Neocortex
Olfactory Bulb
Reptilian Cortex
51
OLFACTORY RESPONSE 2
Odor decoded in brain
Odor pattern formed
Odorant molecule triggers multiple receptor
52
TRIGEMINAL NERVE
Hazardous chemical warning system- onions and
Mexican food...
53
TRIGEMINAL NERVE
54
Age Olfaction
55
AGE

molecules needed for detection increases
Ability to discriminate declines in the 50s and
60s
Ability to identify odors decreases

56
REASONS

Normal aging
Medication
Disease
Pollution

57
FRAGRANCE CREATION
58
VOLATILITY
For a molecule to have odor MWappreciable vapor pressure at RT
59
BASIC COMPOSITION
Jean Carles Evaluate volatility Construct
accords Build from bottom
up
25
25
50
60
CARLES BASE ACCORD
Oakmoss 9 8 7 6 5 Ambergris 1 2 3
4 5

Selects 64 Needed Musk
for Chypre Character
Oakmoss
Ambergris
1 Musk Ketone

61
ADD MIDDLE

Adds Floral and
Animal Notes
Absolute Rose
Absolute Civit 10
Oakmoss
Ambergris
1 Musk Ketone

62
TOP ADDED

Pleasant Highly Volatile
Notes for Sparkle
Sweet Orange Oil
Bergamot
Absolute Rose
Absolute Civit 10
Oakmoss
Ambergris
1 Musk Ketone

63
LINEAR FRAGRANCE
Up to 80 Single Accord- Unchanged for hours
EG. TRÉSOR- 80 Methyl Ionone Iso E
Super Hedione Galaxolide
Fresh Top Missing
64
OTHER BALANCES

More Top
Cologne vs Perfume
Heavy Top Balance-
Candles Soap
Little Top Mostly Bottom-Paper

65
FIXATION

Volatility
Polarity
Hydrogen bonding
Concentration

66
FRAGRANCE CATEGORIES
Polarome raw materials
Symrise genealogies
67
A. THE CITRUS FAMILY
Features essential oils from expression of the
zest of fruits

Citrus
Floral Chypre Citrus
Spicy Citrus
Woody Citrus
Aromatic Citrus

68
B. THE FLORAL FAMILY
Principal Theme is a Flower

Single Fragrance Floral
Lavender
Floral Bouquet
Green Floral
Aldehydic Floral
Woody Floral
Fruity Woody Floral

69
C. THE FERN FAMILY
Notional Family- Lavender Wood Bergamot etc.

Fern
Sweet Oriental Fern
Flowery Oriental Fern
Spicy Fern
Aromatic Fern

70
D. THE CHYPRE FAMILY
Created 1917 by Coty Oak Moss Labdanum
Patchouli etc.

Chypre
Flowery Chypre
Aldehydic Flowery Chypre
Fruity Chypre
Green Chypre
Aromatic Chypre
Leather Chypre

71
E. THE WOODY FAMILY
Warm Dry Notes Sandalwood Patchouli etc.

Woody
Citrus Conifer Woody
Aromatic Woody
Spicy Woody
Leather Spicy Woody
Oriental Woody

72
F. THE ORIENTAL FAMILY
Sweet Powder Vanilla Labdanum Animal

Woody Floral Oriental
Spicy Floral Oriental
Sweet Oriental
Citrus Oriental
Flowery Semi-Oriental

73
G. THE LEATHER FAMILY
Dry Notes with Leather Smell Floral Tops

Leather
Flowery Leather
Leather Tobacco

74
ONE MODERN SYSTEM
75
CHARACTERISTICS

Chypre
Powder
Sweet
Vanilla
Spicy
Musky
Ambery

Citrus
Green
Fruity
Watery
Floral
Herbaceous
Woody

76
FAMILIES
77
CITRUS
GREEN

Floral
Green

Orange
Grapefruit
Lemon/lime
Cologne/tea

78
AROMATIC
FOUGERE

Soft aromatic
Pine/eucalyptus

Floral
Fresh
Woody

79
MARINE
FRUITY

Floral
Fruity

Apple/pear
Melon
Red fruit/berry
Peach/apricot
Tropical
Floral

80
FLORAL

Green
Fruity
Rose
White Floral
Aldehydic
Oriental
Iris/violet

81
POWDER ORIENTAL

Amber
Spicy
Fruit

Powder

82
GOURMAND

Coconut
Vanilla
Chocolate
Nutty
Spicy

83
CHYPRE WOODY

Chypre

Woody

84
NATURAL PRODUCTS
85
NATURAL MATERIALS
Ethanol Solvent
Enfleurage Extraction
Extraction
Tincture Concrete
Pomade (resinoid)
Ethanol
Ethanol Extraction Extraction

Essential Oil Absolute
Deterpenation
Terpeneless Oil
86
PARTS OF PLANT
87
NATURAL OILS

Distilled with water steam alcohol
Solvent extraction
Cold pressed
Enfleurage-historic

88
ENFLEURAGE

Expensive Process
Low Yield
Used on two types
of flowers
Jasmin
Tuberose

89
DEFINITIONS
Essential oil Extracted by pressing or
steam distillation Concrete-Extracted
by solvent Absolute-Waxes in concrete
removed with alcohol
90
STEAM DISTILLATION

Material in tank (w/ water)
Heat or steam
Vapor condenses and is collected
Essential oil separated from top of water phase

91
STEAM DISTILLATION

Consist mostly of lipophilic (hydrophobic)
volatile materials
Thermal decomposition and/or hydrolysis of
components known to occur
Levels of sophistication from direct fire field
stills to pressurized and vacuum types
EO yields from tenths to a few percent by weight

92
EXTRACTIONS - CONCRETES

Material extracted with volatile nonpolar solvent
Solvent evaporated away in vacuo leaving
concentrated product
Contains plant waxes and other odorless
fixatives (based on solubility in extraction
solvent)

93
CONCRETES

Concrete is obtained
from fresh plant matter
and flowers which are
non-resinous or low
resinous materials.

94
ABSOLUTES

Absolutes are highly concentrated
they are entirely alcohol soluble and
are usually liquid materials.

95
TRADITIONAL NATURAL SPECIALTIES

Folded Oils via distillation
Orange 5X Orange 10X
Isolates via distillation
Citral Eugenol Nerolidol Geraniol Nootkatone

96
NONTRADITIONAL NATURAL SPECIALTIES

Fractions via technical distillation
New olfactive characters
Ylang Fraction G
Patchouli Fraction
Vetiver Fraction
Reduction of specific materials
Methyl eugenol
Safrol
Estragol

97
YLANG OILS

Main Growing areas
Madagascar Comores
Description
Short tree with yellowy-green flowers and
carmine-red spots in the center
Part of plant used
Flower petals
Harvest Time
May to July and November to December

98
YLANG OIL FRACTIONS
Fractions made during initial distillation
More woody spicy odor
More floral odor
Extra
First
Second
Third
Increasing Distillation Time
Decreasing Density (!)
Higher Ester Content
Complete
99
NATURAL YLANG PRODUCTS

Ylang Extra
Contains more esters
Ylang I
Ylang II
Ylang III
Contains more phenolic woody notes

100
NATURAL PERFUMES

101
EAU DE COLOGNE 1709
1 lb
Rose Oil 2 drams Melissa Oil
2 drams Neroli Oil 5 drams
Lavender Oil 6 drams Geranium Oil 8
drams Rosemary Oil 9 drams Lime Oil
1 oz Cedra Oil 2
oz Petitgrain Oil 2 oz Orange Oil
2 oz Lemon Oil 3
oz Bergamot Oil 4 oz
102
HISTORIC SHIFT
The development of organic chemistry in Germany
in the late 1800s led to the synthesis of many
new aromatic materials
103
POSSIBILITIES

Natural
Synthetics Existing in
nature Not existing in
nature

104
ALL NATURAL BQT
Bergamot oil 20 Geranium oil
150 Palmarosa oil 200 Sunflower
oil 210 Turkish rose oil
50 Rosewood oil 150 Sandalwood oil
100 Vanilla absolute 10 Violet leaves
abs. 10 Ylang ylang oil 100
1000
105
PROBLEMS WITH NATURALS

Price
Skin irritation
Decomposition
Discoloration

106
THE CHANGING FACE OF NATURAL

Traditional Definition
Defined by suppliers themselves
Obvious()
Products derived from the plant kingdom animals
(or their secretions) via extraction expression
or distillation without intentional chemical
reaction or change

107
THE CHANGING FACE OF NATURAL

New Definition(s) for the 21st Century
Defined by
end user / consumer / marketplace
Not as clear-cut
Products obtained from the plant kingdom (or
animals) using entirely natural methods and
materials such as heat and water

108
CROP PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

Traditional
OK to use chemical fertilizers pest control
agents and irrigation to maximize yield and/or
quality
Organic
Plantations conforming to organic standards
allowing some natural fertilizers and/or pest
control
Beyond Organic Biodynamic
Plantations planted for the purpose of harvest
but left completely in the wild with no
irrigation pest control or fertilization

109
AROMASCIENCE AROMATHERAPY PHEROMONES
110
AROMASCIENCE
AROMASCIENCE AROMACHOLOGY Studies temporary
effects on emotions via olfactory pathways and
is a true science BUT IS NOT AROMATHERAPY
Which presumes absorption into the bloodstream
111
AROMATHERAPY
HISTORY

1904 Cuthbert Hall- Eucalyptus better antiseptic
in natural form
Rene-Maurice Gattefosse coined term in 1928-
lavender healed burn
Marguerite Maury- applied to beauty therapy

112
AROMATHERAPY
MODES OF ACTION

Pharmacological- chemical changes when essential
oil enters blood stream
Physiological- affects system by stimulating
tranquilizing etc
Psychological- when inhaled

113
d/2 TEST

Concentration performance
d/2 test of Brickenkamp
Task Quickly and correctly distinguish between
single similar visual stimuli

114
d/2 TEST
d d p d d d p p d
p
Mark all ds with two signs total top and bottom
115
d/2 TOTAL TEST VALUE
514
501
474
116
PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TEST
117
PRACTICE TIME
47
41
39
118
GAMBLING
Certain odors increased time spent in casinos-
Hirsch
Lingering effect
119
DRIVING
Study at RPI indicated that lemon
increased driver alertness.
120
WHEN IS AN ELEPHANT LIKE A BUTTERFLY
O
CH3
Cis-7-Dodecenyl acetate pheromone for both!
121
PHEROMONES
Greek PHERMO- I CARRY HORMONE- TO
EXCITE
VNO 1703 Ruysch- Affects hypothalamus 1950S
Adolph Butenandt used term PHEROMONE David
Berliner
122
RELEASER PHEROMONES

Sex
Invitational
Aggregation
Dispersal
Alarm

Trail
Territorial
Surface
Funeral

123
VNO
Vestigial organ in man that may be receptor for
pheromones- also known as Jacobsons organ
124
VNO
Olfactory Bulb
VNO
125
NATURE VOL. 229 JAN. 21 1971
Menstrual Synchrony and Suppression Martha
McClintock
126
HUMAN PHEROMONES

Androstenone
Androstenal
Copulins

127
PIG PHEROMONES
CH3
Androstenone is the pheromone that makes a pig
dig for truffles.
CH3
O
Pig VNO Blocked still responded to Androstenone
128
COPULINS
Vaginal secretions C2-C5 aliphatic fatty
acids Change during menstrual cycle send signal
for ovulation
129
PROUSTIAN HYPOTHESIS
Odors not better memory cuesbut they trigger
intense emotions. Smell can be forever linked to
a single event.
130
SEX AND SMELL
Males rated visual and olfactory information
equal while females considered olfactory
information the single most important variable
in mate choice.
131
FOOD AND SX
Effect of scent on Penile blood flow
132
FOOD AND SX
Effect of scent on Vaginal blood flow
133
Synesthesia- The color of odors
134
A ____ B ____ C ____ D ____ E ____ F ____ G
____ H ____ I ____ J ____ K ____ L ____ M
____ N ____
1
2
3
4
5
6
Name _______________________
9
8
7
10
11
135
(No Transcript)
136
OLFACTION AND THE NEW SCIENCE OF THE BRAIN
137
OLD METHODS

Controlled studies
Physiological measurements
EEG
PET scans

138
PSYCHOGRAPHICS
Supplement conventional marketing data with
informed assumptions about personality traits
and human behavior gleaned from other
disciplines including psychology sociology
and probability theory.
139
NEUROMARKETING
The newest approach to sales starting in the
October 14 2004 issue of Neuron using MRI.
140
NEUROMARKETING
Researchers at Baylor study the Pepsi
Challenge find huge effect of Coke label on
brain activity related to control of actions
memories and self-image.
141
COGNITIVE MODULATION
Subjects rated same odor isovaleric acid more
unpleasant if named body odor than if named
cheddar cheese
Cheesehead commercial
142
OLFACTION VISION
Olfactory perception altered by visual clues
The Nose Smells What the Eye Sees
143
THE BUSINESS OF FRAGRANCE
144
Producers of raw materials
Creators/compounders of fragrance
Manufacturers of fragranced products
Retailers
Consumers
145
BEGINING OF THE FRAGRANCE CHAIN
Raw Material Producers Fragrance Suppliers
146
CUSTOMERS

Major finished goods houses
Marketers
Private label manufacturers
Entrepreneurs

147
THE SHIFTING BURDEN
The past thirty years have shown a steady
progression of expecting marketing and technology
to come from fragrance suppliers
148
FRAGRANCE COMPANY RESOURCES

Creativity
Service/Price
Technical service
Marketing
New technology

149
PERFUME JOBS

Perfumer
Sales Customer Service
Evaluation
Marketing
Applications/ RD
QC
Purchasing Production

150
PROJECT ESSENTIALS

Target market
Odor types/pricing
Development timeline
Product forms /bases/packaging
Stability requirements

151
PERCEPTION MAP
Trendy
Musk
Fruity
Male
Female
Oriental
Fougere
Floral
Classic
152
RESOURCES
153
(No Transcript)
154
(No Transcript)
155
WEB SITES