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Title: Joyce Malek, Ph.D. Associate Professor of English Interim Director, English Composition Program Univ


1
Joyce Malek, Ph.D.Associate Professor of
EnglishInterim Director, English Composition
ProgramUniversity of Cincinnatijoyce.malek_at_uc.ed
u
  • We are What We Eat
  • Cookbooks, Memory, and Identity
  • OCTELA March 8, 2008

2
We are What We Eat Cookbooks, Memory, and
Identity
  • Recipe A set of directions with a list of
    ingredients for making
  • something, esp. food. From the
    Latin recipere to take, to
  • receive
    Agenda
  • I Recipe Exchange
  • II Cookbooks By the Numbers
  • III Cookbooks as Texts/Texts as Cookbooks
  • IV Cookbook Resources and Collections for
    Research
  • V Show and Tell
  • VI Ideas for Assignments

3
Anne C. Moore, Cataloger, North American
Imprints Program
  • Cookbooks refuse to remain in the kitchen,
    for when we look more closely, we find that they
    illuminate many other aspects of the past
    technological (in the shift from fireplace to
    stove, from pump to running water), sociological
    (family composition and the relations between
    husband and wife, parent and child, mistress of
    the house and servant), and religious and
    scientific (nutrition theories and fads). For
    students of women's history, cookbooks present a
    wealth of information about the changing role of
    women, without which our understanding of past
    and current ideals would be much impoverished.
  • American Antiquarian Society185 Salisbury
    StreetWorcester, Massachusetts 01609-1634

4
Cookbooks by the Numbers
  • In the year 2000, 530 million cookbooks and
    winebooks sold worldwide. Sales increase 9
    annually
  • 3 million cookbooks sold everyday
  • 24,000 new titles published annually
  • Over 6000 new cookbooks published every year in
    US alone
  • From
  • Edouard Cointreau. A Loaf of Bread, a Jug of
    Wine, and Thou(sands of
  • books). Logos Journal of World Book Community.
    Vol 12, issue 4,
  • 2001. www.atyphon-link.com

5
Cookbooks by the NumbersGourmand World Cookbook
Awards 2007
  • Established in 1996 by Edouard Cointreau
  • In 2007,107 countries participating, with books
    in over 40 languages
  • In 2007, 6000 submissions with winner Best in
    the World announced in London, in April 2008
  • Among four objectives
  • Reward and honor those who cook with words
  • Increase knowledge of, and respect for, food and
    wine culture, which promotes peace

6
Cookbooks as Texts/Texts as Cookbooks
Novel/Cookbook
  • Like Water for Chocolate
  • A Novel in Monthly Installments with
  • Recipes, Romances, and Home Remedies
  • by Laura Esquivel
  • a mixture of community recipe book, how-to
    household
  • book, sociopolitical and historical
    documentation of the
  • Mexican Revolution, psychological study of
    male/female as
  • well as mother/daughter relations, gothic
    narrative, and
  • ultimately, an extremely readable novel.
  • From Cecelia Lawless, Cooking, Community,
    Culture A Reading of
  • Like Water for Chocolate, p.216

7
Cookbooks as Texts/Texts as CookbooksCookbook/Me
moir
  • The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook published in 1954
  • as if a cookbook had anything to do with
    writing.
  • Though born in America, I have lived so long
    in France
  • that both countries seem to be mine, and
    knowing,
  • loving both, I took to pondering on the
    differences in eating
  • habits and general attitude to food and the
    kitchen in the United States
  • and here. I fell to considering how every
    nationhas its idiosyncrasies in
  • food and drink conditioned by climate, soil and
    temperament. And I thought
  • about the wars and conquests and how invading
    occupying troops carry
  • their habits with them and so in time perhaps
    modify the national kitchen
  • table. Such speculations led me to rout about
    among my huge collection of
  • recipes and compile this cook-book.

8
Haschich Fudge(which anyone could whip up on a
rainy day)Brion Gyson
  • This is the food of paradiseof Baudelaires
    Artificial Paradise it might provide an
    entertaining refreshment for a Ladies Bridge
    Club or a chapter meeting of the DAR. In
    Morrocco it is thought to be good for warding off
    the common cold in damp winter weather and is,
    indeed, more effective if taken with large
    quantities of hot mint tea. Euphoria and
    brilliant storms of laughter, ecstatic reveries
    and extensions of ones personality on several
    simultaneous planes are to be complacently
    expected. Almost anything Saint Theresa did, you
    can do better if you can bear to be ravished by
    un evanouissement reveille!
  • Take 1 teaspoon black peppercorn, 1 whole nutmeg,
    4 average sticks of cinnamon, 1 teaspoon
    coriander. These should all be pulverised in a
    mortar. About a handful each of stoned dates,
    dried figs, shelled almonds and peanuts chop
    these and mix them together. A bunch of canibus
    sativa can be pulverised. This along with the
    spices should be dusted over the mixed fruit and
    nuts, kneaded together. About a cup of sugar
    dissolved in a big pat of butter. Rolled into a
    cake and cut into pieces or made into balls about
    the size of a walnut, it should be eaten with
    care. Two pieces are quite sufficient.
    Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, 259

9
Cookbook as Texts/Texts as CookbooksMemoir/Cookbo
ok
  • The Language of Baklava by Diana Abu-Jabar,
    2005
  • My childhood was made up of stories.
  • The stories are often in some way
  • about food, and the food always turns
  • out to be about something much larger
  • grace, difference, faith, love.
  • Memories give our lives their fullest
  • shape, and eating together helps
  • us to remember.

10
The Language of Baklava
Diana Abu-Jabar
  • Recipe Titles
  • Peaceful Vegetarian Lentil Stew p.19
  • Buds Special Rice for Special Company p.29
  • Comforting Grilled Velveeta Sandwiches p.31
  • Bedouin Mensaf Leben p.69
  • Barbaric Lamb Kofta p.114
  • Poetic Baklava for when you need to serenade
    someone p.192

11
Eat My Words Reading Womens Lives Through the
Cookbooks They Wroteby Janet Theophano
  • Exhaustive study examining the stories told
    within,
  • by and on the pages of cookbooks written by women
  • dating from the 1600s to the late 1900s and
    across countries
  • and cultures
  • Purpose
  • to expand significance we usually ascribe to
    cookbooks by considering them as worthy objects
    of serious textual analysis p.5

12
In Memorys Kitchen A Legacy from the Women
of Terezin
  • edited by Cara De Silva Translated by Bianca
    Steiner Brown
  • Northvale, NJ Jason Aronson Inc., 1996
  • a collection of recipes originally handwritten in
    Czech and German on scraps of paper by the women
    in the camp/ghetto of Terezin (renamed
    Theresienstadt) Czechoslavakia during the
    Holocaust
  • Compiled by Mina Pachter and other Jewish women
    in the ghetto. Reached Pachters daughter, Amy
    Stern, 25 years
  • after her mothers death.
  • Translated by Bianca Steiner Brown, a survivor of
  • Terezin

13
Caramels from Baden
  • Brown caramelize 30 decagrams sugar without
    water. Pour in 1/3 liter coffee extract very
    strong coffee,1/8 liter cream and bring it to a
    boil. Add 8 decagrams tea butter best quality
    butter and cook until mixture is thick. Pour
    boiling into a buttered candy pan. With the back
    of a knife divide it before it completely cools.
    Then break it into cubes and wrap in parchment
    and also pink paper.

  • In Memorys Kitchen p.64

14
The Joy of Cookingby Irma S. Rombauer
  • 75th Anniversary Issue of Joy of Cooking
    published in 2006
  • Best-selling cookbook of all time with over 18
    million copies sold
  • NY Public Library selects 1931 self-published
    edition as one of the 150 most important and
    influential books of the 20th century

15
NYPL Books of the Century 150 most important
and influential books of the 20th century
Optimism, Joy, Gentility Sarah Orne
Jewett. The Country of the Pointed Firs
(1896) Helen Keller. The Story of My Life
(1903) G. K. Chesterton. The Innocence of Father
Brown (1911) Juan Ramón Jiménez. Platero y yo
Platero and I An Andalusian Elegy
(1914) George Bernard Shaw. Pygmalion
(1914) Emily Post. Etiquette in Society, in
Business, in Politics, and at Home (1922) P. G.
Wodehouse. The Inimitable Jeeves (1923) A. A.
Milne. Winnie-the-Pooh (1926) Willa Cather.
Shadows on the Rock (1931) Irma S. Rombauer. The
Joy of Cooking A Compilation of Reliable
Recipes with a Casual Culinary Chat (1931) J. R.
R. Tolkien. The Hobbit (1937) Margaret Wise
Brown. Goodnight Moon (1947) Harper Lee. To Kill
a Mockingbird (1960) Langston Hughes. The Best of
Simple (1961) Elizabeth Bishop. The Complete
Poems, 1927-1979 (1983)
16
JOY TIMELINE from Simon and Schuster website
  • 1930 The United States stock market crashes
    creating the great depression.
  • 1931 Irma Rombauer takes 3000, the modest legacy
    her husband leaves at his death, and she
    self-publishes the first Joy of Cooking. She is
    54 years old.
  • 1932 Irma tries to sell her book to a commercial
    publisher, Bobbs-Merrill of Indianapolis, IN and
    is rejected.
  • 1933 Prohibition is repealed and Adolf Hilter
    becomes to Chancellor of Germany.
  • 1935 Bobbs-Merrill receives another submission of
    the Joy of Cooking from Irma. This version is not
    the self-published book but a revision, typed and
    bound in 15 notebook binders.
  • 1936 March 26 is the publication date for the
    first commercial Joy of Cooking. The first print
    run is 10,000 copies and the book costs 2.50.
  • 1937 The Golden Gate Bridge is completed in San
    Francisco and Gone with the Wind, a Scribner
    book, wins the Pulitzer Prize.
  • 1941 Pearl Harbor is attacked and America enters
    WWII.
  • 1943 The bestselling "wartime" edition of the Joy
    of Cooking is published which includes how to
    creatively deal with the food rationing during
    World War II.
  • 1946 A "post-war" edition is printed with very
    few changes.
  • 1951 Marion Rombauer Becker joins her mother Irma
    as co-author of this edition.
  • 1961 John F. Kennedy is inaugurated as the
    President of the United States.
  • 1962 Irma Rombauer dies in her native St. Louis.
    The sixth edition of the Joy of Cooking is
    published.
  • 1969 Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin become the
    first to walk on the moon.
  • 1970 Beatles break up.
  • 1974 President Nixon resigns and Stephen King's
    Carrie is published.
  • 1975 The first -- and last -- edition of the Joy
    of Cooking that is completely Marion Rombauer
    Becker's work is published.
  • 1979 Margaret Thatcher becomes the Prime Minister
    of Great Britain.
  • 1990 East and West Germany unite.

17
Cover from 1931 edition of Joy of Cooking
created by Marion Rombauer, author Irma
Rombauers daughter
  • St. Martha of Bethany, the patron saint of
    cooking, slaying the dragon of kitchen drudgery
  • That which thy fathers have bequeathed to thee,
    earn it anew if thou wouldst possess it.
    Goethe Faust

18
Books Referenced and Sources for Research
  • Abu-Jabar, Diana. The Language of Baklava. New
    York Pantheon Books, 2005.
  • Bower, Anne L, ed. Recipes for Reading. Amherst
    U Mass Press, 1997.
  • De Silva, Cara, ed. In Memorys Kitchen. Trans.
    Bianca Steiner Brown. Northvale, New Jersey
    Jason Aronson, Inc, 1996.
  • Esquivel, Laura. Like Water for Chocolate. Trans.
    Carol Christenson and Thomas Christensen. New
    York Doubleday, 1992.
  • Harris, Patricia, David Lyon and Sue McLaughlin.
    The Meaning of Food. Guilford CT Globe Pequot
    Press, 2005
  • Lawless, Cecilia. Cooking, Community, Culture A
    Reading of Like Water for Chocolate. Recipes
    for Reading. Ed. Anne L. Bower. Amherst U Mass
    Press, 1997, 216-235.
  • Rombauer, Irma, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan
    Becker. Joy of Cooking 75th Anniversary Edition.
    New York Scribner, 2006.
  • Theophano, Janet. Eat My Words. New York
    Palgrave, 2002.
  • Toklas, Alice B. The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook.
    Guilford CT Lyons Press,1998.
  • Troung, Monique. The Book of Salt. Boston
    Mariner Books, 2003.

19
Cookbook Collections for Research
  • American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, MA
    1,100 volumes, mainly published before 1877
  • Conrad N. Hilton Library at the Culinary
    Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York 76,000
    volumes, 3800 DVDs and Videos devoted to culinary
    arts
  • Fales Library at NYU cookbooks, chefs letters,
    and other artifacts of eating to show the food
    history of New York over 10,000 cookbooks
    Marvin
    Taylor curator
  • UPenn Aresty Collection of Rare Books on the
    Culinary Arts spans five centuries representing
    cultures worldwide

    Janet Theophano curator political, economic,
    social, cultural, and linguistic histories are
    charted and documented in these texts
  • MSU Feeding America The Historic American
    Cookbook Project 75 fully digitized historical
    US cookbooks published between1798 and 1923
    Peter Berg and Ruth Ann Jones, project leaders

20
Show and TellCookbooks and Related Works
  • Recipe A set of directions with a list of
    ingredients for making something, esp. food.
    From the Latin recipere to take, to receive
  • Alcatraz Womens Cookbook
  • Alice B. Toklas Cookbook
  • Aphrodite
  • Big Boy Barbecue Book
  • Civil War Recipes
  • Cooking for Two
  • Gallery of Regrettable Food
  • In Memorys Kitchen
  • Kentucky Housewife
  • Last Dinner on the Titanic
  • Recipes from Americas Restored Villages
  • Vegetarian Epicure

21
Assignment Ideas
  • Memory Cookbooks from the Simple
  • to the Sublime
  • Student Generated Cookbooks
  • Web Resources
  • A Plate Full of Memories
    www.platefulofmemories.com
  • The Great Family Cookbook Project
  • www.familycookbookproject.com
  • Historical Research
  • MSU Feeding America The Historic American
    Cookbook Project
  • Other ideas?
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