Mouth of the Columbia River Buoy System

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Mouth of the Columbia River Buoy
System Julie Thomas Program Manager,
CDIP Executive Director, SCCOOS Ilwaco, WA June
18, 2009
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COASTAL DATA INFORMATION PROGRAM
Based at SIO 39 Wave Stations
14 People 2.5M / year budget Funded
by CDBW USACE (SCCOOS
BEACON ONR SD Foundation)
CDIP Mission
Develop US nearshore wave climatology for more
rational design decisions
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• OUTLINE
• Overview of the Coastal Data Information Program
  (CDIP)
• Overview of the Datawell Wave Buoys, moorings
  and deployment vessels.
• Examples of existing customized Port products -
  Los Angeles/Long Beach San Pedro Channel- San
  Francisco
• Mouth of the Columbia River location
• Funding
• Examples of CDIP Products
• Reliability Statistics

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CDIP Wave Buoys Near Ports and Harbors
How important is consistency for The inter and
intra-state maritime community?
Each port has its own unique Set of
challengesno one Template fits all!
Port/Harbor buoys
Other CDIP wave buoys
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Integrated Ocean Observing System (IOOS)

• Supports Science, Engineering, and
• Marine Safety
• Sponsored by NOAA and USACE
• Plan Approved by IOOS Program
• Office, March 2009

• Strategic placement of wave buoys for integration
  with global
• and local wave models.
• High wave data quality standards

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• Constructed in the Netherlands, robust,
• reliable. Considered as the base system
• for wave buoy comparisons in the International
  Community (JCOMM)
• Centimeter accuracy in the wave height,
• 5 degrees resolution for wave direction.
• Data are transmitted via iridium satellite.
• (full xyz and spectra are transmitted) . All raw
  data are stored on board.
• - All data are disseminated on the CDIP
• Website in near real-time. The data
• update _at_ 30 minutes.
• The parameter (Hs, Tp, Dp, SST ) and spectral
  data are transmitted to NDBC _at_ hour. Via
  AWIPS, data are transmitted to the NWS Office.
• Alert system if buoy breaks loose.

DATAWELL Directional Wave Buoy
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• MOORING SYSTEM
• 30 m bungee that allows for surface following
  buoy. Bungee stretches to 4 x its length
• - Polypropolene line
• 1400 lbs of large anchor chain

Compliant mooring System designed to maximize
the frequency response of the buoy
Instrumentation.
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Grays Harbor Installation 1981 present Max Hs
12m (2/06)
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Umpqua (1/06) Max Hs 10.3m (1/07)
Cape Mendocino (3/99) Max Hs 9.98m (12/08)
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The Coastal Wave Network Template

• Regional waves are monitored by a pair of Outer
  Inner Shelf Buoys.

outer
Shelf Break
inner
Harbor
PLAN VIEW
SHELF CROSS-SECTION
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The Coastal Wave Network Template

• Outer/Inner wave buoys are placed at wave model
  boundaries for assimilation and validation.

Local Model
Global Model
Shelf Model
Shelf Model
Shelf Break
Local
Harbor
Model
CROSS SECTION
PLAN VIEW
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Waves and Currents in the San Pedro Channel
SCCOOS providing currents
CDIP providing wave observations, Nowcasts and
forecasts.
http//sccoos.ucsd.edu/themes/harbors
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Ports of Los Angeles/Long Beach
Website allows you to click on your area of
interest for further details.
Catalina
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3 day wave forecast
Capability to send automated notification when
thresholds are exceeded!
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7 DAY FORECAST, WWW/CDIP
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PEAK WAVE PERIOD 12-13 sec
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Geo-referenced NOAA charts to Google
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SAN FRANCISCO BAR BUOY
Buoy-driven wave model predictions
CDIP Point Reyes Buoy
Long Period Swell
CDIP Bar Buoy
Short Period Seas
Swell Sea Prediction
NOAA 46026
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Step 1. Validate Buoy-driven Regional Wave
Transformation Hindcast at Bar Buoy.
RedModel BlueBar Buoy
February 2008 HINDCAST VALIDATION
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Feb 23, 2008, 9pm. PST
3 m, 10 sec
Breaking Waves on the San Francisco Bar
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Feb 24, 2008, 3p.m. PST
6 m, 14 sec
Breaking Waves on the San Francisco Bar
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Marine Incidents near SF Bar
Incidents in the Vicinity of SF Bar
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PROPOSED LOCATIONS OF WAVE BUOYS AT THE MCR
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Additional Comments (by BOR)
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS (BILL OREILLLY) MCR The
buoys can be used to both drive coastal wave
models at the offshore and nested nearshore
boundaries (hindcasts and nowcast) as well as
validate basin- and regional-scale ww3 model
forecasts at these critical hi res coastal model
"handoff" locations. You can use them in a more
regional way. eg. to make wave predictions for
Willapa Bay as well, especially if you cheat the
inner shelf buoy slightly north of the Columbia
River mouth.
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USGS/USACE
Nominal Ebb tides
Max Ebb Tides
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Summary

• The MCR is a complex region. In order to obtain a
  good wave model/bar forecast, you need high
  resolution directional wave data.
• The Inner/Outer Buoy concept has worked well.

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Budget
Buoy, mooring, shipping, painting
85,000 Salary (Admin, Tech, Programmer, BOR,
JOT) 10,000 Travel (5 days SD/Portland)
1300 ________________ Sub
Total 96,300 Overhead 27,700 __
________________ TOTAL 120,000
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• What does the 120K cover?
• Order, shipment, paint, calibration,
• Integration into CDIP system
• Iridium configuration and costs,
• Travel to Portland for installation,
• Alert notification,
• Data analysis, quality control, archive and
  dissemination
• Bill OReilly wave model collaboration
• Does not include
• Vessel costs
• Anchor chain
• Local field team

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Annual Maintenance
20,000 -6,600 ------------ 13,400
(CDIP)
Umpqua Buoy
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Deployed Percentage of the year during which
the buoy was deployed and on site. Coverage
Percentage of the deployed period for which good
spectral data were obtained. Total spectra The
number of spectra files generated for the year.
Reliability Statistics 2008
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SAMPLE PRODUCTS
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http//cdip.ucsd.edu
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Hs(ft) Tp Dp SSt
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California Swell Nowcast and Forecast Models
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Grays Harbor Station Info Page
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Min, Max, Mean
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Customized Wave Model Nowcast and Forecast for
the Navy
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Directional Spectrum plot shows Bi-modal wave
direction